Loooks like the white Macbook has been updated again. Now it has a 2.13GHz CPU (previously 2GHz), 2GB DDR2 800MHz RAM (previously used DDR2 667MHz RAM) and 160GB HD (120GB HD prevously). I'm sure the aluminum updates should get some sort of "bump up" in the near future.
I may just get the 2.0GHz model, update the RAM to 4GB, take out the 120GB HD and put in a 320GB 7200 RPM HD and be done with it.
She has a white macbook with leopard I think, and has a separate partition in which she has boot camp, she uses specialized software that can only run in windows (doesnt run in vm). She got a new macbook air but wants to keep everything intact.
Do programs like duper clone drives with all files intact, including partitions? Keep in mind that the windows side is more important, installation of this software can only be done remotely from Russia, so it's a bit of a hassle if we screw up, we have to contact IT at a specific time and get them to do it.
Would I have to take the drive of the macbook air out? Or can i just clone to an external hard drive and then move that to the mba hard drive, in target disc mode or something.
i have had a problem with my white macbook overheating. now the fans startsup even when i watch youtube videos and the CPU and GPU area feels very hot. any idea to make it cooler. and i have reapplied arctic silver on my gpu and cpu and made sure that they are in touch and working properly.
i just got a new white macbook. It came with two restore dvds. one for osx and the other for applications. If i put in a new hard drive will i be able to install osx from the restore dvd or will i need a copy of a legit Mac OSX 10.5.x dvd. the guy at the apple store said the restore dvds will only work on this computer. i dont know if that means it will only work on the same hard drive or not. i plan on upgrading to a 320gb 7200 rpm.
i got my macbook white 2.1 ghz intel core 2 duo last year. i wanna do ram upgrade on it. rite now it has 1 gb 667 mhz ddr2 sdram, i was thinking of upgrading it to 2 or 4(if possible). but i dunno which type of ram n wht company would be suitable. i mean i tried looking into my local electronics store on their site, but they are showing some sodimm ram or sumthn... nt sure wht any of those mean..
a lot of people that owns the white macbook complains that it gets too hot, well the area that gets hot is the gpu and the cpu heatsink.
well i decided to open that baby up and change the thermal compound. from just using it for the past hour it seems to still heat up but at a slower rate and the final temp is noticeablly lower, not to mention that it haven't gone through the break-in phase.
unfortunatly i didn't take any pictures and a lot of people have done this so if you really want to, you can search of it online. but i didn't find some information that can help you make the process easier.
taking off the keyboard cover is pretty easy. after removing the screws make sure you keep track of them, this is the hardest part. the right side does not come out that easier, don't be afraid to bend it a little bit. the trick is try to remove the keyboard ribbon right now if you can't get it completely off, then you don't have to worry about using a bit more force, there's really nothing to keep you back...............
About seven months ago, I bought a Lenovo T400 for law school and left my 2006 13" MB with my dad (the computer mentioned in the subject line). All he did was install Snow Leopard on it, and then let it sit and barely use it. So, last time I was home I took it back from him to have as a fun/backup laptop.
I know the fan on this model (compared to the older G4 iBooks) always did run somewhat frequently, but usually I could tell what I was doing that would do it (something CPU intensive). However, since I've been messing around with it, I've noticed the fan runs a LOT more often, at a high speed. I could even let it sit for five minutes with no applications running and the fan will turn on for a bit.
I don't think I'm just spoiled by the cool-running T400, but I'm fairly sure the fan is running more often than when I used this MacBook. Can anyone tell me if Snow Leopard (at 10.6.2) is making a difference? Or is there some other issue that can be present here? I've also done the PRAM reset tricks to no avail.
My friend just gave me her White Macbook pre 2007 i beleive to fix because i fix all her computers but this is the first time im trying to fix a mac . Upon pressing the power button im greeted by the BONG tone and a white screen. Then i start hearing the HD making some very messed up noises witch to me are the fimiliar sound of a hd failure and so i beleive this is the problem. After a minute or two i get a flashing folder with a ? on it witch means it can't find the system files it needs to boot. So i tryed booting from the Tiger discs but it will not boot. Now this is leading me to beleive that it is the logic board. Right now im waiting till morning to buy a torx t8 so i can replace the HD.
i have had my like MB for just over a year...so my warranty just ran out. i noted that the top case has started cracking around the edge, and asking my friends and people who has the macbook, this is a pretty common problem. but mine is getting pretty bad.
Do you think Apple would send me a replacement topcase and if so, how much would it cost. i don't know if anyone else has had this problem and asked for a replacement.
wanted to play this on my macbook (on os x, I am not gonna install windows just for the 1 game)
Black & White 2 for Mac has the following system requirements (minimum): 1.8GHz Intel Mac only, 512MB RAM, 128MB graphics card, DVD drive, 5.1 GB of hard disk space, and Mac OS X v10.4.8 or later . Intel GMA processors are not supported. Appleís latest GeForce 9400 M-enabled Macbooks are a go!
It meets the requirements, why won't Feral port it?
I have a XPS L702X, purchased it last year at the beginning of the summer. After a couple of weeks of use, the colors¬†would change on the screen and the screen would start flickering. The dell people did a remote assistance and updated the bios and graphics software. It stopped for a little while. Then the colors would just change but not flickering yet. Then it started all over again, but now it would flash and lock up my keyboard, but I could still control the mouse with an external one. So I got a live CD to see if that works and it runs, but the screen still flashes white and gets static. I can see the desktop and move the mouse but it eventually turns all white and static comes through the speakers. Now the computer will not even turn on at times, it sounds like it is booting up, but then just shuts off.
I have also tried doing a system restore but it will not stay on long enough to go through the process, this last time it shut down completely before even finishing.
I have also tried using an external monitor and it will go through until the screen starts flickering.
I just made the long-coveted switch to the Mac world and I ended up getting the 13" white macbook just this past Sunday.
Long story short, I had to fill out a questionnaire for something, pen had spilled some ink into my hand, unknowingly, and I went back to my computer to finish typing up this report, took my hand off and then BLAMMO, blue ink stain.
I did a search and saw recommendations of toothpaste and isopropyl alcohol. Would these be good to try out or are there other remedies you guys can teach me?
To start I should remind everyone that i'm not a mac user. I have never owned a mac or used OSX properly before today. As such, my opinions should be taken as coming from someone who has much knowledge and experience as far as PC's are concerned, but who is a total mac n00b.
When I first walked over to the Macbooks I was quite taken aback. The build quality is out of this world. In fact, I immediately walked over to the latest PC laptops to compare and immediately thought "manufacturing FAIL". Really, the Macbooks are italian sports cars, and PC's are 30 year old farm tractors to use the typical "car analogy".
I really only had any interest in the Macbook when I first went to the Apple stand, but came away with the intention of buying a MacBook Pro. Let me explain:
The MacBook's build quality is awesome. It's solid, no creaking plastic or flexable build, completely and utterly solid. Awesome.............
I bought a black macbook this summer and every night when I'm in bed trying to do work I can barely see which keys is which. Obviously this wouldn't be a cheap fix but is there a way or is it possible to install the new light up keys of the new macbooks onto a pre-remodel macbook?
I really want to buy a black one as I prefer a matte finish and it wouldn't discolor, but I want it new and I cannot find any here in Canada, so I will have to buy a white one. This is going to be my very first mac and to me it's a lot of money... I hope it will be worth it (I'm a little nervous about the switch) .
do you find intel hd graphics performance for non intensive tasks sluggish like scrolling on certain sites and maximizing a youtube video, i see a white screen for two seconds before the full screen renders. not like this when i disable automatic graphics switching... i also used migration assistant to get my data back from my 2009 c2d i sold. happens with firefox not chrome or safari...
I downloaded this updated for my unibody Macbook Pro, and I think it's pretty vital. However, it gave me this error when I tried to install it: "You cannot install Macbook, Macbook Pro software update on this volume. This update requires Mac OS X 10.5.5 or newer." Now don't tell me that I have selected the wrong partition to install the update, or that I need to update my OS to 10.5.5 because I already have 10.5.6 and I chose the Macintosh HD partition to install the update.
So I'm definitely getting a 13" Macbook or Macbook Pro. Apple has some great prices on refurbs so that's probably the route I'll be going however I'm having trouble discerning the difference between the 13" Aluminum Unibody standard macbook and the 13" Unibody Macbook Pro. From what I've read they both have the upgraded screen, they're obviously both unibody, both have the large button-less trackpad, and both have the 9400m. They even have the same dimensions and the only difference I can see between the images is a slightly different case bevel (also the firewire and sd card ports, both are useless to me).
Unfortunately, none of the Apple stores or BestBuys in the area have a non-pro unibody 13" Macbook for me to actually handle and compare. So, basically, what makes the pro version with the slower cpu and smaller hard drive at the same price point worth it?
If I make an image of my hdd from my white macbook with disk utility onto a hard drive I take out of a unibody macbook pro will it work and boot properly?
I will do this by taking the 250gb hdd out of the unibody macbook pro and putting it into a sata external usb hdd enclosure, then making an image of my current 120gb white macbook and writing the image onto the 250gb. After, I plan to put the 250gb hdd back into the macbook pro and boot it up normally as if everything from my white macbook was just copied onto the macbook pro.
Just installed Visa 64 , everything went fine , but every time i boot into Vista i get a black screen with a white cursor in the top left have corner flashing very fast and it does this for almost 60 seconds and then Vista boots normally.
I have tried unplugging everything from my Mac , but i still get the same problem.
It looks like Vista is wating for something then it gives up, I have not installed any software only the bootcamp driver.
Anybody know what is wrong, I had Xp on previously and did not have this problem on fat32 , Vista only works on NTFC if that makes a difference.
I really love the black color of MB404, but is it good? does it crack easily?(is it plastic?)
Hows screen quality?
What do you think? which one should i buy?
I really wanted to buy Alu one before i hear about slanted keys and loose battery covers(i know %99 of them don't have that, but it's hard to risk when there's no way to fix it in here), because there's no Mac center in my country and i'm SO picky.
1.I really didn't find much info on the (now not so) new white unibody Macbooks, expect some items for sale. And please, don't tell me that just buy the aluminum model for the extra $200, my question is strictly from an engineering point of view: heat. We all know aluminum Macbooks are quite hot, right? But how does the white unibody compares to the aluminum regarding heat issues?
2.What might be the reason that the whole bottom of the white unibody contcts the table beneath it, compared to the aluminum model, which has four rubber contact points on the four corners?
3.On the other thread I read a dedicated graphics card does not really add to battery consumption. Can you confirm that?
My main usage profile is office, web and seeing (HD, if available) Youtube videos. This one is rather a 15" vs. 13" Pro question, and half hypothetic. Let's say, all things are being equal on two models, the processor none the least, the only differences are one model has the integrated Nvidia, the other the integrated Intel plus discreet Nvidia combo, which one would serve me better, regarding performance and battery life? The discreet graphics would at least turn on when playing the HD videos?
4.Running native Windows (7 or XP) still suck on Macbooks, because of the drivers?
I've been looking at basicly two models, both got almost the exact same price tag here in Norway, so I'm not sure which one to go for.
The first ones is a MacBook Pro 15" with High-resolution 1650x1080 glossy screen, featuring the top of the line Intel Core i7-620M CPU the other is a MacBook Pro 17" with even higher resolution (1920x1200) glossy screen, featuring the slightly slower Intel Core i5-540M.
I don't list the other specifications as I don't really care about them, I already got a pair of 4GB 1600MHz CL7 (2x2GB) DIM's and a Intel X25-M 80GB SSD that I'll be using anyway.
There will be lots of movies and series played on my MacBook Pro, that's why I don't really considering paying a premium for the anti-glare screen, even though I love anti-glare and tend to struggle with glossy screens I don't see the point in actually paying more for it. And when watching movies and series, in often very dark rooms the glossy screen actually have some advantages.
The hard thing to decide here is slicker and lighter, with smaller screen and lower resolution, but better CPU versus the bigger, more heavy but featuring bigger screen and Full-HD+ resolution but slower CPU.....................
1-a 13" MacBook Pro, primary use will be Internet and e-mail and manipulating music files. Will my husband really notice a difference/benefit between the basic 2.26 and the 2.53GHZ (and is it worth about $250 more)? If he uses it for video downloading will that make a difference?
2- a 15" MacBook Pro- here I'm debating between the 2.66 and 2.8. My daughter uses it for Office apps, PhotoShop, music, Internet and e-mail. Again, would video downloading make a difference?
I am currently returning a dell studio xps 16" as its so sooo much hassle to deal with dell and the fact that i got 3 messsed up replacements in a row. i am looking to get a macbook or macbook pro. i would prefer a macbook pro (lowest model) although the cheapest method i can find is £1163 from the higher education store. is there any other way or place that sells it for less? apple seem to charge crazy prices for a low spec. een £100 would be expensive but maybe afordable. only discounts i found for the macbook/macbook pro are 14% higher education (the one i am looking to use) and 6% EPP and school discount. iv looked at the macbook but im going to use the laptop for movies, work and internet. movies on a 13.3" arnt exactly enjoyable to watch so thats why im looking for a macbook pro.