I have just bought my Unibody Macbook. I haven't received it yet, but I was wondering if anyone has any tips on undervolting, buying a different battery, etc. to get more battery life on it. I really need it for school and I don't always like sitting next to the plug in a classroom.
1.I really didn't find much info on the (now not so) new white unibody Macbooks, expect some items for sale. And please, don't tell me that just buy the aluminum model for the extra $200, my question is strictly from an engineering point of view: heat. We all know aluminum Macbooks are quite hot, right? But how does the white unibody compares to the aluminum regarding heat issues?
2.What might be the reason that the whole bottom of the white unibody contcts the table beneath it, compared to the aluminum model, which has four rubber contact points on the four corners?
3.On the other thread I read a dedicated graphics card does not really add to battery consumption. Can you confirm that?
My main usage profile is office, web and seeing (HD, if available) Youtube videos. This one is rather a 15" vs. 13" Pro question, and half hypothetic. Let's say, all things are being equal on two models, the processor none the least, the only differences are one model has the integrated Nvidia, the other the integrated Intel plus discreet Nvidia combo, which one would serve me better, regarding performance and battery life? The discreet graphics would at least turn on when playing the HD videos?
4.Running native Windows (7 or XP) still suck on Macbooks, because of the drivers?
what the battery life of the new(er) unibody macbook pro 17 was like under windows. I read a review somewhere that says the new macbook pro (the one with advertised 8hours battery life) managed about 1 1/2 hours in windows, is this true? the only reason I'm looking at the 17inch pro is because I program a lot in Windows and Linux, and 17inchs would be fantastic to display more code, but I still need good battery life. portability is no issue, as I'm a big guy and I carry 2 computers with me right now anyway. any other cons to installing windows on this beast?
I have recently purchased the unibody 15.4", and I can't get more then 2 hours of battery life while web surfing on wireless with Screen brightness at half and backlighting turned off. I am running the 9400m also.
I know that keeping a battery on charge after it is fully charged can decrease its battery life by 30%, but I also know that Apple's batteries automatically stop charging when they have reached 100%, wait till the battery drops to 97%, and then start charging again. I need to know if the battery life will degrade if I keep the laptop on charge...
I was having bad battery life (under 2 hours) And noticed my fans were not spinning up to counter the increase in heat.
I called Apple and they had me reset my PRAM. With that done the system worked fine for a day.
Currently my Unibody will not stay connected to any wireless networks. I have tried 2 of my own routers and a friends. It will not stya connected, either on AC or battery.
Next issue involves CPU hitting 95c before the fan go past 2k rpm. Try and and play wow and the system locks up when the CPU hits 98c and the fans are still at 2k. Tried reseting the PRAM again, no luck.
I'm not even coming close to this with my 2010 macbook pro 13 inch unless I turn my brightness down to 50%, on reboot it defaults to 100%. This is when doing nothing or just surfing the net. I can get about 7 hrs, with my laptop screen turned to 50%. Any tweaks available? I'd love to know how Apple came up with 10 hrs.
I have a Macbook Pro I bought in summer 2007, and I'm have concerns about its battery life, and so I was wondering if anyone could help me please.
I hardly ever use my laptop away from my desk, so it's plugged in all the time. While plugged in, I still keep the battery in the laptop. It's only been through 10 cycles in 2 years, and I know I should've calibrated it monthly, but I didn't and I really wish I had now. Right now, when unplugged, my battery only lasts about half an hour. I downloaded coconutBattery and apparently, my original battery capacity was 5600 mAh, and now it's only 543 mAh.
My question is, did I mess up the battery myself by not calibrating it, or was the battery defective in the first place? :S Or is it just old?
I'm a real n00b when it comes to computers....but if this ISN'T my fault, the laptop is under an Apple Care Protection Plan, and so would that cover the battery? Is there any way to fix it without getting a new battery?
I had received my refurbished MBP last monday, and have been using it frequently since then. It takes on average 4-5 hours to charge it fully, which is ridiculous in my opinion. And the most I can get it to last is around 2:40 with lowest brightness, microsoft office 2008 open, bluetooth off and wifi on. Shouldn't I be getting more battery time?
As a new 13" Macbook Pro owner, I am wondering if upgrading with non-Apple certified HDD and RAM components could drastically effect the battery life.
I am told that there is firmware in the HDD of the one that comes with a Macbook that is necessary for maximum battery life. From comparing two HDD's in my Macbook (one certified and one not) I think this might be the case. What is your experience?
Also, does there exist Apple certified RAM and, if so, does it offer more battery life compared to non-certified?
I have the 15" Macbook Pro 2.66 with the 512mb graphics and I was wondering if there are programs out there that I can adjust the battery options more? All I can really do is go from Performance to Better Battery Life (I assume it disables the graphics?). also any must have apps would be great for my new macbook pro. (I have xupport already)
Does anyone know if it's possible to install the new mid-2009 Macbook Pro 15" battery in the late 2008 macbook pro 15"? I looked at the pictures and it seems to be an identical fit, just no screw to secure the battery but from what I see all it is is a simple change in battery./
Has anyone debated trying this? I would love the extra battery life and I don't see why we couldn't do this aside from maybe the charging being 80w compared to the 73w for the new battery...
After seeing how awesome the Education discount is, I've decided I will definitely go after a MacBook Pro 17 if I can get this shoddy Acer returned. What attracts me is the thinness, design, keyboard, screen, weight and basically everything except the price. Everything about it screams quality, even the notorious glossy screen which I kinda like.
I have some questions about the MacBook Pros and Mac OSX in general.
1. Is the 8 Hour Battery Life for real? I know that this is some "revolutionary" new thing, but honestly I can't believe something with a WUXGA screen could go for so long.
2. Does Aluminum scratch easily? How about fingerprints?
3. (Applies to all MacBook Pros) Does the hinge of the lid creak or wobble when opening or closing the laptop?
4. Is Leopard 32 bit or 64 bit? Or is it default 64 bit? I can't see any mention of that in the configuration page.
5. How about driver support? I have a Razer Copperhead, Piranha and am ordering a Mamba and it would be a shame if they were not compatible with the OS.
6. Does Parallels or VMWare lag at all when running XP? Or is it the same experience, with no slow down? How about Boot Camp?
Are there any Windows 7-native notebooks with a "clean" design (where "clean" is MBP-ish), a battery capable of seven or so hours like the MBP's is, and a weight close to the MBP's 5.5 lbs? Seems the closest thing as of now is the Envy 15, but from what I understand, the slice battery is required to get the battery life beyond a few hours -- and using it bumps the notebook's travel weight to ~7.8 lbs.
I know that Apple did not include any HDCP support in their notebooks. As I understand it though, HDCP is an actual piece of hardware on the graphics card. I'm guessing Apple uses the same graphic cards as everyone else, but their drivers simply don't support HDCP.
Now that Nvidia has released drivers, I'm wondering, is it possible to update a Macbook Pro's drivers with Nvidia drivers and enable hdcp?
Just bought new MacBook Pro after about 15 years of using Windows machines (first experience with Macs was in aerospace when for a time there they used Macs almost exclusively.) Very nice. Even nicer I've found that I don't need BootCamp for Windows applications .. don't miss them at all! For office-type applications just use NeoOffice and Photoshop does a Mac version, too. It's great just to be able to get on a computer and do work rather than spending time (sometimes lots of it) trying to figure out how to make the thing work better or even work at all.
I have a zbook 15 mobile workstation and love it. I have a docking station at work and same docking station at home.
When I plug into the docking station at home the mouse will double click every time I single click. If single click, I have to quickly move off of the object or it will double click every time. I've tried a new mouse, reducing double click speed, and does NOT happen on my docking station at work or when using laptop with mouse plugged in locally.
It is extremely frustrating and makes working from home a pain rather that productive.
I have a problem with double clicking. (assume that all clicking is the left click) It is most apparent on the internet, when I hit the back button once, I go back two pages. Its annoying, but now i'm having trouble highlighting, and other important tasks. I do know about keyboard alternatives, but the mouse is just more convenient.
This problem started soon after my laptop survived having orange juice spilled onto it.
I have done my own research, and most forums state a software problem, but I am sure that I have a mechanical problem. I noticed that there is an "upstroke" and a "downstroke" to my click. When I click, that is the downstroke, the mouse performs as it's supposed to; but when I lift my finger, there is a second click that I did not intend, the upstroke. I've tested this on button clicking games on my laptop, and on other computers.
So I'm definitely getting a 13" Macbook or Macbook Pro. Apple has some great prices on refurbs so that's probably the route I'll be going however I'm having trouble discerning the difference between the 13" Aluminum Unibody standard macbook and the 13" Unibody Macbook Pro. From what I've read they both have the upgraded screen, they're obviously both unibody, both have the large button-less trackpad, and both have the 9400m. They even have the same dimensions and the only difference I can see between the images is a slightly different case bevel (also the firewire and sd card ports, both are useless to me).
Unfortunately, none of the Apple stores or BestBuys in the area have a non-pro unibody 13" Macbook for me to actually handle and compare. So, basically, what makes the pro version with the slower cpu and smaller hard drive at the same price point worth it?
I am currently saving up for a laptop and i first thought about the sony fw because of its high res screen and blu ray player along with the 2.66 processor. I dont use any really demanding software but would like to play a few games.
Im also looking at the macs beacuse they look amazing and have better build quality than sony...i think. will i notice any significant difference when web browsing/light gaming with the faster processor listed in the title. The ram is not an issue because i would upgrade it myself as its cheaper.Im also going to upgrade the hdd to a 7200rpm one.
Also what are the macbook pros viewing angles like for watching films, as my sister has a unibody macbook and its pretty bad for watching and films.
I'm looking at upgrading the hard drive in my Unibody MacBook. I've been looking at 320GB and 500GB drives. I'm not really sure I need the 500GB, as the 160GB still has a bit of room left over with a 32GB Windows 7 install. But I'd like to increase the size of the Windows install.
Anyway, I was set on the Hitachi 7K320, but I've noticed that a lot of people were having issues with them in the unibody MBP. There weren't a lot of answers in the upgrade forum. So I'm here to see if any of you guys have had issues with the unibody MacBooks.
Also, I'd like to go ahead and get some suggestions for other drives that you guys have experience with. I'd like it to be a pretty good speed, so 7200 is preferable. However, I place more importance on noise and vibration. The Fujitsu 5400 rpm drive in the MacBook now is a little slow for my tastes, but acceptable. But I'd like a new drive to be at least as quiet. I've got a 100GB 7200RPM WD drive in my Dell that's really loud, and it gets annoying sometimes.
I thought it might be nice for all the macbook pro users with the 15.4" screen and unibody style to have their own place to discuss topics, enjoy! I just bought my mbp and think its the bomb. I've never had such great quality in any notebook before. I purchased and returned the HP HDX 18t and was shafted by the HP executives for getting the worst notebook from the HP home and home office website. I was so sick of buying windows based pc's that I saved until I could get the new mbp. I've never been happier with any purchase, and I would do it all over again, even for a more decked out (off brand, lol) system. You can watch the video review I did on the HDX 18t in my signature and instantly feel better about owning a mbp!