Well, after using nothing but a pc all my life and my current desktop I write to you on having a pentium 4 with about a gig of ddr2 ram and a nvidia geforce 7300 gs with 256 mb of memory i decided it was time for a new comp. I wanted a laptop for the portability and decided to chance my luck with ebay (ya i know ). Holy cow was i lucky! I snagged a awesome deal for a barely used mid 2009 Macbook Pro 17 incher. Here are the specs and what it came with:
3.06GHz Intel Core 2 Duo 8GB 1066MHz DDR3 SDRAM - 2X4GB 500GB Serial ATA Drive @ 5400 rpm SuperDrive 8x (DVD±R DL/DVD±RW/CD-RW) Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce 9400M and 9600M GT 512 MB MacBook Pro 17-inch Hi-Resolution Antiglare Widescreen Display Backlit Keyboard (English) / User's Guide iWork '09 Family Pack preinstalled Aperture preinstalled....................
To start I should remind everyone that i'm not a mac user. I have never owned a mac or used OSX properly before today. As such, my opinions should be taken as coming from someone who has much knowledge and experience as far as PC's are concerned, but who is a total mac n00b.
When I first walked over to the Macbooks I was quite taken aback. The build quality is out of this world. In fact, I immediately walked over to the latest PC laptops to compare and immediately thought "manufacturing FAIL". Really, the Macbooks are italian sports cars, and PC's are 30 year old farm tractors to use the typical "car analogy".
I really only had any interest in the Macbook when I first went to the Apple stand, but came away with the intention of buying a MacBook Pro. Let me explain:
The MacBook's build quality is awesome. It's solid, no creaking plastic or flexable build, completely and utterly solid. Awesome.............
I bought a black macbook this summer and every night when I'm in bed trying to do work I can barely see which keys is which. Obviously this wouldn't be a cheap fix but is there a way or is it possible to install the new light up keys of the new macbooks onto a pre-remodel macbook?
I downloaded this updated for my unibody Macbook Pro, and I think it's pretty vital. However, it gave me this error when I tried to install it: "You cannot install Macbook, Macbook Pro software update on this volume. This update requires Mac OS X 10.5.5 or newer." Now don't tell me that I have selected the wrong partition to install the update, or that I need to update my OS to 10.5.5 because I already have 10.5.6 and I chose the Macintosh HD partition to install the update.
So I'm definitely getting a 13" Macbook or Macbook Pro. Apple has some great prices on refurbs so that's probably the route I'll be going however I'm having trouble discerning the difference between the 13" Aluminum Unibody standard macbook and the 13" Unibody Macbook Pro. From what I've read they both have the upgraded screen, they're obviously both unibody, both have the large button-less trackpad, and both have the 9400m. They even have the same dimensions and the only difference I can see between the images is a slightly different case bevel (also the firewire and sd card ports, both are useless to me).
Unfortunately, none of the Apple stores or BestBuys in the area have a non-pro unibody 13" Macbook for me to actually handle and compare. So, basically, what makes the pro version with the slower cpu and smaller hard drive at the same price point worth it?
If I make an image of my hdd from my white macbook with disk utility onto a hard drive I take out of a unibody macbook pro will it work and boot properly?
I will do this by taking the 250gb hdd out of the unibody macbook pro and putting it into a sata external usb hdd enclosure, then making an image of my current 120gb white macbook and writing the image onto the 250gb. After, I plan to put the 250gb hdd back into the macbook pro and boot it up normally as if everything from my white macbook was just copied onto the macbook pro.
She has a white macbook with leopard I think, and has a separate partition in which she has boot camp, she uses specialized software that can only run in windows (doesnt run in vm). She got a new macbook air but wants to keep everything intact.
Do programs like duper clone drives with all files intact, including partitions? Keep in mind that the windows side is more important, installation of this software can only be done remotely from Russia, so it's a bit of a hassle if we screw up, we have to contact IT at a specific time and get them to do it.
Would I have to take the drive of the macbook air out? Or can i just clone to an external hard drive and then move that to the mba hard drive, in target disc mode or something.
I really love the black color of MB404, but is it good? does it crack easily?(is it plastic?)
Hows screen quality?
What do you think? which one should i buy?
I really wanted to buy Alu one before i hear about slanted keys and loose battery covers(i know %99 of them don't have that, but it's hard to risk when there's no way to fix it in here), because there's no Mac center in my country and i'm SO picky.
I've been looking at basicly two models, both got almost the exact same price tag here in Norway, so I'm not sure which one to go for.
The first ones is a MacBook Pro 15" with High-resolution 1650x1080 glossy screen, featuring the top of the line Intel Core i7-620M CPU the other is a MacBook Pro 17" with even higher resolution (1920x1200) glossy screen, featuring the slightly slower Intel Core i5-540M.
I don't list the other specifications as I don't really care about them, I already got a pair of 4GB 1600MHz CL7 (2x2GB) DIM's and a Intel X25-M 80GB SSD that I'll be using anyway.
There will be lots of movies and series played on my MacBook Pro, that's why I don't really considering paying a premium for the anti-glare screen, even though I love anti-glare and tend to struggle with glossy screens I don't see the point in actually paying more for it. And when watching movies and series, in often very dark rooms the glossy screen actually have some advantages.
The hard thing to decide here is slicker and lighter, with smaller screen and lower resolution, but better CPU versus the bigger, more heavy but featuring bigger screen and Full-HD+ resolution but slower CPU.....................
1-a 13" MacBook Pro, primary use will be Internet and e-mail and manipulating music files. Will my husband really notice a difference/benefit between the basic 2.26 and the 2.53GHZ (and is it worth about $250 more)? If he uses it for video downloading will that make a difference?
2- a 15" MacBook Pro- here I'm debating between the 2.66 and 2.8. My daughter uses it for Office apps, PhotoShop, music, Internet and e-mail. Again, would video downloading make a difference?
Just doing a final check to make sure these specs are acceptable (just listing the upgraded/important bits)
Intel® Core™ 2 Duo P8700 (3MB cache/2.53GHz/1066Mhz FSB) Edge-to-Edge FullHD Widescreen 16.0 inch RGBLED LCD (1920x1080) W/2.0 MP 4GB Dual Channel DDR3 SDRAM at 1067MHz (2 Dimms) 500GB 5400 RPM SATA Hard Drive (I'm pissed about this, there was a 7200 RPM one on there a day or two ago)
BluRay Disc Combo (DVD/CD read/write + BD read) Slot Load Drive ATI Mobility RADEON® HD 3670 - 512MB (don't need the upgrade) Dell Wireless 370 Bluetooth Module (2.1+EDR)
I'm very happy with the LCD on my new Z555 and thought I would share the details after profiling the display. I was looking for this information myself and couldn't find much so here is what I've figured out:
The temperature of the display on it's own is about 6300K but deficient in green (too magenta). The color is consistent with either graphics adapter.
I have no way to measure the color gamut but it does appear to be at least as wide as my Electron Blue CRT and with more color contrast. As I found in another thread Sony is calling it the full range of the NTSC which is slightly larger than adobe RGB, though it's never stated clearly.
Since neither adapter's driver allows setting the brightness independent of the color I could only set the white point using the drivers and had to rely on the rather coarse range of the FN keys brightness with contrast at default. I tried to get more contrast out of the display by playing with the driver contrast adjustments but in the end it just complicated the color adjustments for no apparent gain.
The best black point I could get was .24 cd/m and the highest white point was almost 325 cd/m -- both excellent values for a laptop.
In the end the 6500K profiles I settled on had a black point of .37 cd/m and a usable brightness of 197 cd/m. This is over 500:1 contrast ratio (if I'm figuring this right) and is excellent for a laptop.
With a profile associated with each adapter (intel & nividia) Vista seems to correctly load the proper profile if the speed/stamina switch is changed though I need to verify that this is actually working. I'm sure Vista loads the correct profile from power on.
The display is sharp and crisp with a beautifully matte finish. There is some banding in large gradients, as I feared, but I'm sure it's typical for all 6 bit displays.
Loading the profiling software was no fun as there appears to be something wrong with the installshield Vista installation from sony but eventually I got it working. Next step is a clean install on a new disk but I think I'm going back to XP for that.
I am currently returning a dell studio xps 16" as its so sooo much hassle to deal with dell and the fact that i got 3 messsed up replacements in a row. i am looking to get a macbook or macbook pro. i would prefer a macbook pro (lowest model) although the cheapest method i can find is £1163 from the higher education store. is there any other way or place that sells it for less? apple seem to charge crazy prices for a low spec. een £100 would be expensive but maybe afordable. only discounts i found for the macbook/macbook pro are 14% higher education (the one i am looking to use) and 6% EPP and school discount. iv looked at the macbook but im going to use the laptop for movies, work and internet. movies on a 13.3" arnt exactly enjoyable to watch so thats why im looking for a macbook pro.
A friend of mine is debating which model. I noticed some small differences, but for 200 bucks it almost seems worth getting the pro model. It seems as if it's a higher quality build, firewire, backlit keyboard, is the screen the same? What do you guys think? Can the Macbooks without the dedicated video card run a game like Sims 3?
I want to buy the Macbook Pro 15 inc Unibody, there are 2 models
Model 1 Model 2 Intel Core 2 Duo 2.4GHZ 2GB Memory 250GB hard drive1 NVIDIA GeForce 9400M+ 9600M GT with 256MB
Model 2 Intel Core 2 Duo 2.66GHZ 4GB Memory 320GB hard drive GeForce 9400M + 9600M GT with 512MB
A difference of £343. My reason for Macbook Pro over any Windows laptop is simpy becuase OSX and that the laptop fits my needs, its not too big like the 17 inch and not too small like the 13 inch, also it has an express card slot 34 which I can then add a memory card reader. I will be editing/converting a lot of photos and videos and looking forward to buying Final Cut Studio 2.0................
back in 2005 I bought an Inspirion 6000-D. A few days ago a cat spilled coke in it while I was out of the house. It was destroyed. Thankfully, I had the Dell accidental damage warranty (which I'd forgotten all about.) Here's the specs on what they're sending as a replacement.
About to order, finally settled on the SXPS 16, here are the specs.
Anything I should change last minute?
Components Intel® Core™ i7 Processor 720QM (1.60Ghz, 6MB cache) Genuine Windows® 7 Professional 64bit- English OS Windows® Recovery Media Not included Microsoft® Works 9.0 / English - (Does not include Microsoft® Word) 2 years Next Business Day + Accidental Damage McAfee® SecurityCenter 30 Day trial version Computrace LoJack for Laptops, 1yr license Accidental Damage already selected in your Service Plan White Leather back cover : 16" (inch) Truelife 1080p Full HD RGBLED Edge to Edge Display (Enhanced c