Performance wise, I havent been disappointed with the laptop, but one of the main drawbacks I see in the machine is its battery life - Apple has taken strides in improving battery life over 2009-2010, and its kinda annoys me that I'm stuck with the battery I have now.
I commute a lot to/from school, work on the bus/train, and have to use my laptop in places where power outlets are not readily available (some lecture rooms). Realistically, I get about 3-3.5 Hours with screen brightness on minimum, wifi and bluetooth turned of, and doing some basic word processing, as well as reading pdf's.......
Does anyone know if it's possible to install the new mid-2009 Macbook Pro 15" battery in the late 2008 macbook pro 15"? I looked at the pictures and it seems to be an identical fit, just no screw to secure the battery but from what I see all it is is a simple change in battery./
Has anyone debated trying this? I would love the extra battery life and I don't see why we couldn't do this aside from maybe the charging being 80w compared to the 73w for the new battery...
My photography hobby is getting more complex than originally anticipated, so I now want to upgrade my HD from the standard 120GB to something bigger, since I only have about 10 GB left.
I have been looking at the WD Scorpio Black (320GB, 7k200, priced $89 at newegg and 150 on WD site), but was wondering if it would work with my MacBook (late 07/early 08) and if there would be any difference with the sales package from Newegg and WD own site..
Also I was wondering how the performance is, and if there would be any noticeable difference between the 320 Black and a 500 Blue (both WD)?
Also, what is the procedure, when upgrading? My present drive is backed up via TimeMachine (with all docs, pictures, music and apps).
I had received my refurbished MBP last monday, and have been using it frequently since then. It takes on average 4-5 hours to charge it fully, which is ridiculous in my opinion. And the most I can get it to last is around 2:40 with lowest brightness, microsoft office 2008 open, bluetooth off and wifi on. Shouldn't I be getting more battery time?
I have had my 2008 unibody macbook for sometime now. 3 weeks ago there was a clunking sound in the fan constantly. picture a Ford Model T sound like " dugdugdugdugdug" or something i cant explain the sound. suddenly today it got a ton worse. now sounds like a lawnmower. Here is a video of someones macbook that sounds EXACTLY like mine. YouTube - macbook pro fan problem
i would just like to know how hot the 15 inch macbook pro unibody runs after being under load for a few hours. I will be playing games 3-4 hours straight some nights.
i heard it runs at 70 degrees celsius under load and it stays around there, but if its running that hot:
Is it uncomfortable to use on your lap? will you want to take it off your lap after a few seconds?
Any tips on keeping it cool? i dont understand how a notebook cooler helps that much, as there are no intakes on the bottom of the notebook. And because of that how does keeping the macbook on your bed affect its temps at all? as long as you keep the vents sucking air in and blowing air out clear shouldnt it not matter?
I just got the new Macbook Pro and its awesome! I was a PC user earlier .However I was wondering whether the Macbook Pro 17 inch ( newest model) memory can be changed, I got the 4 GB RAM and want to upgrade to the 8 GB ram.
I've been gaming on my MBP's 9600M GT since I got it in October and I've been pretty satisfied with the results. I just started Mirror's Edge and I get an average of 30fps outdoors on Med/High settings at max 900p res and 2x AA (I'd take off AA, but it just looks ugly to me without it). The trouble is that when I enable PhysX my fps drops down to about 26fps avg. I'd like to make up this difference with overclocking, but wasn't sure if I should.
I game about 1.5 hours at a time, and usually GPU-Z reports nothing higher than about 74C (I'm running 181.22 drivers from LV2G). I have a dinky little plastic cooler with three 80mm fans underneath it, too. I was thinking of a modest overclock, say maybe 10-15%, but was wondering what the dangers were, if any and what temps I would see. IMO the newer MBPs are MUCH better at dissipating heat than last gen, so hopefully that won't be much of a concern, plus I could always grab a program to boost the fan speeds as well right, SMTFan I think it's called. If I do go ahead and overclock, which speeds should I increase, core/shader/mem and by how much?
What say you NBR? Worth the performance gains or stupid risk on a relatively new laptop?
after getting a new 13" I have been noticing that it seldom gets warmer than 50C while in a speck case on a soft surface, while my 15" on the other hand is normally running at the high 70s and mid 80s and easily reaches the 90s if I begin watching a video on youtube when not in any sort of case and kept on a hard surface. I have been ramping up the fans using SMC Fan Control whenever I witness the machine getting warm but it makes me wonder if I have a faulty machine and is reason for me to get it checked out(it is still in warranty).
And just recently I switched to using the 9600M GT graphics card(for the first time since I got it really) and the temperatures hover at about the high 70s to mid 80s as usual but this time the fans are up to 3500-5000rpm on average without me setting anything with SMC Fan Control. Even just letting the machine idle for awhile doesn't get the fans to lower to 2000rpms(which I would assume is the expected normal speed considering my 13" seldom revs up a hair past 2000rpm).
I generally leave my 15" MBP on all the time(5 days/week), or put it to sleep whenever I am going to transport it(as I am sure most of us do). What I constantly have running is:Firefox(with around 40 tabs)Xcode or Eclipse(maybe both, but definitely one of them)Terminal(with a handful of tabs[3-7])AdiumPreview(with up to 15 or so documents open)iTunes
I have an issue with my MBP when I'm using vista. It just freeze after a few hours and I don't know why (I don't think that it is the network card driver, as suggested in other posts because I installed the driver provided there.
I just know that it is a driver issue because I got a blue screen with a notification from windows and it said that windows is shutting down to prevent damages to the computer because of a problem with a driver.all the drivers are from the Leopard DVD (excluding the network card driver).
I just got my sisters old macbook pro which is a late 2007 model with the following specs:
15.4 inch LED screen (1440 x 900) 160 gb 5400 rpm HD 2 gb of ram (the standard that it came with) - 667 mhz ddr2 sdram GPU: nVidia Geforce 8600M GT with 256mb CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo 2.4 ghz (T7700) Superdrive: 4x DVD+R DL writes, 8x DVD+/-R read/write, 4x DVD+/-RW writes, 24x CD-R, and 10x CD-RW recording No applecare left on it Condition: Very minor wear and tear, but its in excellent condition because its been in a speck plastic case from day one with all the protective casing features below and kept in a neoprene sleeve when on the go Battery: there are two, one is absolute shot (as in it lasts about 1 minute before i get a low battery warning), the other is brand new and hasnt been opened yet Accessories: it also came with a brand new (not even opened) battery, a full body speck plastic case, rubber keyboard cover, trackpad film cover, and rubbery/felt like cover for the part below the keyboard and trackpad buttons, oh and a 15 inch neoprene sleeve...my sister is sort of a freak about protecting it............
I've had my MBP for about 4 month now and have been having problems with its keyboard since I bought it. First, the "Z" key sank in (I think there was a problem with the spring). I took it to the Apple Store, and they "fixed" on the spot (it's much harder to press and only registered a key press 70% of the time). The lower right corner of the "E" has noticeably sunk in, and I need to resort to pressing the upper left corner. Also, the left side of the keyboard feels "mushy", not hugely so, but definitely noticeable after typing a few sentences. Can I request that Apple just replace the entire keyboard instead of just individual keys?
Is it impossible to avoid scratches on the Macbook Pros? My friend bought a MB Pro and after two weeks there are scratches everywhere in the aluminium and it doesn't look nice. Is it a bad mistake by Apply using this soft material?
im really considering buying a Aluminum unibody macbook. With previous notebooks, i ended up sending them back because of the glossy screens, attracting way too much glare. could someone tell me if the new macbook screens attract excessive glare, and can someone tell me there experiences with the screen. Also does anyone know if the Aluminum body scratches easily? is it the same Aluminum used in the older ipod nanos and minis?
I just came back from the store where they had a display model of the White Macbook and it was full of swirl marks (tiny scratches) everywhere on the outside shell. My question is... Do they come with tiny scratches like that from the factory or are they pristine when you get them?
I've been using my new Macbook for a few weeks now. I must say, I'm impressed with the hardware and the OS. Definitely don't regret making the switch from Windows.
There is one issue that I have been having. The availability of only 2 USB ports has made using my peripherals difficult.
I am in the process of looking for a USB hub so that I can work more efficiently. I did some research and was able to find limited information. From what I know, the only thing I should be aware of is whether the hub draws its power from the port or powers itself.
Are these newer Macbooks about to power the port without any problems.
I'm looking to use an external HD (has its own power supply), wireless mice, iPods, and Blackberry. These aren't too power intensive.
I have a late '08 unibody MBP. Every once in a while, generally not every day but once every few days, I have a split-second issue where half of the screen on my MBP flashes black for a split-second. Everything's perfectly normal before and afterwards, just that. I suppose it's not terribly bothersome, but it is noticeable. I've done some searching and it seems to be happening to many people and may be software based.
I am looking to buy a macbook pro 15 inch very soon and I decided that I will buy a good quality SSD with it, i know its expensive but I think it will be worth it, anyways I was looking at the following two SSD and it seems that they have pretty good reading and writing speeds:
my question. which one is the better one of the two? and also I came across the following SSD, which states that it is a mac version!
I was wondering what is the difference between a mac edition SSD and a non-Mac edition SSD and will the above two SSD's fit into the new macbook pros and work properly?
My university had a brand new early-2008 MBP model (one left) for $1,399 so I bought it a couple of weeks ago. It has the 2.5Ghz processor, 2GB ram, 250GB HDD, 8600m GT w/ 512 vRam, and the matte display. I was trying to decide whether to buy a 2.4Ghz unibody MB, a 2.4Ghz unibody MBP, or refurbished of both. I went to talk to the people at the tech store and they showed me a brand new early-2008 model MBP (a design I happen to like more than the unibody because I am not a fan of the Sony chiclet keyboard or the new "no button" button touchpad) and I purchased it immediately.
So far I have been pretty happy with the purchase and the performance of the machine although it does get quite hot on its own. The main thing I am wondering about is upgrading the ram to 4GB and swapping out the hard drive for a 7200RPM one. The hard drive is less important to me as of right now because the higher RPM will cause more heat and drain the battery faster but what I DO want to do immediately is upgrade the ram.
The machine has 2GB PC2-5300 in it which is 667 Mhz. The bus speed on the machine is 800Mhz. I am wondering whether or not I can match the bus speed and install PC2-6400 which are 800 Mhz. If not that is fine I'll just go with PC2-5300 and pick up 4GB from Fry's today but running the faster speed would be nice.
On the hard drive front how exactly does this work? I know on a PC I can just swap out the hard drive and load a saved system image or install a new OS but does it work the same with Apple? If I swap the hard drive do I just pop in the install disks and install it?
Does anyone play sims 3 on the new macbook or 13inch mbp? is it even playable? I've been wanting a mac for awhile now and since they have the free itouch till September i wanted to get it but not if you can't play sims3 on them.
My son's MacBook Pro (15 inch) has a case warp problem that's probably caused by something in the superdrive pushing out the plastic strip on the front of the laptop. I suggested taking it to the Apple Store to see what it would cost to fix (probably a Superdrive replacement at a minimum). I also asked him if he'd like a new 15 inch MBP but he likes his current system despite the problems. It has a Windows XP partition and all of the software that he likes on it which would have to be moved over. I'm disappointed with this generation MBP with the nVidia problem, the failed superdrive and now the current problem.
I have the 17 inch model of the same generation but I haven't had any problems with mine. I'd personally just prefer getting him a new one and I might just go ahead and get one and set it up (he's at a university for the summer and uses his MBP for his job there).
In general, are the Aluminum MBPs more problem free than the previous generation plastic models? Are there fewer Superdrive issues?
So I'm definitely getting a 13" Macbook or Macbook Pro. Apple has some great prices on refurbs so that's probably the route I'll be going however I'm having trouble discerning the difference between the 13" Aluminum Unibody standard macbook and the 13" Unibody Macbook Pro. From what I've read they both have the upgraded screen, they're obviously both unibody, both have the large button-less trackpad, and both have the 9400m. They even have the same dimensions and the only difference I can see between the images is a slightly different case bevel (also the firewire and sd card ports, both are useless to me).
Unfortunately, none of the Apple stores or BestBuys in the area have a non-pro unibody 13" Macbook for me to actually handle and compare. So, basically, what makes the pro version with the slower cpu and smaller hard drive at the same price point worth it?