Apple :: Late 2008 MBP Keyboard - Left Side Of The Keyboard Feels Mushy
Mar 11, 2009
I've had my MBP for about 4 month now and have been having problems with its keyboard since I bought it. First, the "Z" key sank in (I think there was a problem with the spring). I took it to the Apple Store, and they "fixed" on the spot (it's much harder to press and only registered a key press 70% of the time). The lower right corner of the "E" has noticeably sunk in, and I need to resort to pressing the upper left corner. Also, the left side of the keyboard feels "mushy", not hugely so, but definitely noticeable after typing a few sentences. Can I request that Apple just replace the entire keyboard instead of just individual keys?
I have to an extent with both the Z9 and X9 at the moment - although probably more with the X - but there's sometimes a sort of sticky 'clicking' when the keys are depressed which leads me to believe that some of the domes are not seated correctly. I have no idea how the domes are arranged for the Z11 - I'm presuming due to weight reasons it won't be a monolithic sheet, but a separate dome per key - but it is definitely happening on more than one key. Rapid typing doesn't seem to be an issue, but the audible feedback causes me to slow down typing.
I'm weighing up the pros and cons of returning the machines for replacements.
I've been gaming on my MBP's 9600M GT since I got it in October and I've been pretty satisfied with the results. I just started Mirror's Edge and I get an average of 30fps outdoors on Med/High settings at max 900p res and 2x AA (I'd take off AA, but it just looks ugly to me without it). The trouble is that when I enable PhysX my fps drops down to about 26fps avg. I'd like to make up this difference with overclocking, but wasn't sure if I should.
I game about 1.5 hours at a time, and usually GPU-Z reports nothing higher than about 74C (I'm running 181.22 drivers from LV2G). I have a dinky little plastic cooler with three 80mm fans underneath it, too. I was thinking of a modest overclock, say maybe 10-15%, but was wondering what the dangers were, if any and what temps I would see. IMO the newer MBPs are MUCH better at dissipating heat than last gen, so hopefully that won't be much of a concern, plus I could always grab a program to boost the fan speeds as well right, SMTFan I think it's called. If I do go ahead and overclock, which speeds should I increase, core/shader/mem and by how much?
What say you NBR? Worth the performance gains or stupid risk on a relatively new laptop?
after getting a new 13" I have been noticing that it seldom gets warmer than 50C while in a speck case on a soft surface, while my 15" on the other hand is normally running at the high 70s and mid 80s and easily reaches the 90s if I begin watching a video on youtube when not in any sort of case and kept on a hard surface. I have been ramping up the fans using SMC Fan Control whenever I witness the machine getting warm but it makes me wonder if I have a faulty machine and is reason for me to get it checked out(it is still in warranty).
And just recently I switched to using the 9600M GT graphics card(for the first time since I got it really) and the temperatures hover at about the high 70s to mid 80s as usual but this time the fans are up to 3500-5000rpm on average without me setting anything with SMC Fan Control. Even just letting the machine idle for awhile doesn't get the fans to lower to 2000rpms(which I would assume is the expected normal speed considering my 13" seldom revs up a hair past 2000rpm).
I generally leave my 15" MBP on all the time(5 days/week), or put it to sleep whenever I am going to transport it(as I am sure most of us do). What I constantly have running is:Firefox(with around 40 tabs)Xcode or Eclipse(maybe both, but definitely one of them)Terminal(with a handful of tabs[3-7])AdiumPreview(with up to 15 or so documents open)iTunes
I have an issue with my MBP when I'm using vista. It just freeze after a few hours and I don't know why (I don't think that it is the network card driver, as suggested in other posts because I installed the driver provided there.
I just know that it is a driver issue because I got a blue screen with a notification from windows and it said that windows is shutting down to prevent damages to the computer because of a problem with a driver.all the drivers are from the Leopard DVD (excluding the network card driver).
Performance wise, I havent been disappointed with the laptop, but one of the main drawbacks I see in the machine is its battery life - Apple has taken strides in improving battery life over 2009-2010, and its kinda annoys me that I'm stuck with the battery I have now.
I commute a lot to/from school, work on the bus/train, and have to use my laptop in places where power outlets are not readily available (some lecture rooms). Realistically, I get about 3-3.5 Hours with screen brightness on minimum, wifi and bluetooth turned of, and doing some basic word processing, as well as reading pdf's.......
My photography hobby is getting more complex than originally anticipated, so I now want to upgrade my HD from the standard 120GB to something bigger, since I only have about 10 GB left.
I have been looking at the WD Scorpio Black (320GB, 7k200, priced $89 at newegg and 150 on WD site), but was wondering if it would work with my MacBook (late 07/early 08) and if there would be any difference with the sales package from Newegg and WD own site..
Also I was wondering how the performance is, and if there would be any noticeable difference between the 320 Black and a 500 Blue (both WD)?
Also, what is the procedure, when upgrading? My present drive is backed up via TimeMachine (with all docs, pictures, music and apps).
Does anyone know if it's possible to install the new mid-2009 Macbook Pro 15" battery in the late 2008 macbook pro 15"? I looked at the pictures and it seems to be an identical fit, just no screw to secure the battery but from what I see all it is is a simple change in battery./
Has anyone debated trying this? I would love the extra battery life and I don't see why we couldn't do this aside from maybe the charging being 80w compared to the 73w for the new battery...
I am trying to troubleshoot a E1-531-4836 model laptop, the right handside from the 9 does not work. So Num Lock and number pad etc does not work. The touchpad does not work well either. I can plug a USB keyboard and mouse in and they seem to work for the most part. Sometimes I can not bring up the charms etc with the USB mouse. then I have to hit the space bar on the laptop keyboard,and I then can use the USB mouse to bring up charms. I tried updating drivers and restoring to original settings. Did not fix my problem.
I am trying to troubleshoot a E1-531-4836 the Right hand side of the keyboard has stopped working, and the touchpad does not respond properly either. I tried reloading drivers, a system reset, and I am left with the same problem. I have plugged a USB mouse and keyboard in, and I can sort of use the computer, I can not get all functions to work completely.
I am finding that the space key sensitivity on my new Y510P is not consistant, and that I have to really press down on the key for it to work, and despite this it does not always work. I have to go back then and correct where the spaces where not added. I tend to use the space bar with my right thumb clicking on the right 1/3 side of the space bar. When I use other keyboards including other Lenovo laptop products and this has not been a problem.
The MBP I bought in Aug '07 2.4 GHz model seems to be having some screen issues... in particular ... pixel issues on the far left side of my screen... I'm attaching a pdf shot of the areas in question that i took with my camera ... there are quite a few patches of pixels that are remaining a shade of white and are not responding to any colour change in desktop wallpaper/ movies/ anything...
I'm terribly dissappointed with this... i've taken pains to ensure that the MBP is always padded when i take it out (and i can count the number of times i've taken it outside home with fingers on one hand) .... so... i'm sure i haven't bumped it anywhere...
I have the apple protection plan...
any advice on what my options might be at this point? would apple look into screen replacement options? I'm in India and there aren't any official apple stores out here either:| (the closest thing out here to an apple store is a premium reseller) ... on a totally separate note .. my battery seems to be performing excruciatingly badly as well.. health is at 84% after 64 cycles ... and that's after i've done the battery calibration tests ......
This sticker (the one saying "regulatory information...." in 50 languages) would NOT come off by trying to pick at the corners. It was leaving the sticky part on.
When I pulled at the "tab" built into the sticker, I got that off but it left the whole rectangle sticky part on the laptop. In other words, the whole printed part of the sticker came off leaving all the clear sticky material on the palm rest still.
I kept picking at the corners trying to grab them but no luck.
What finally worked was sliding my fingers while pushing on the surface of the palmrest, upward, into the bottom of the sticker. In other words, press your finger on the plastic of the laptop just below the sticky stuff left behind. Keep sliding your finger while pushing on the plastic INTO the bottom line of the sticky part. It will eventually start to roll up. Do this all along the bottom edge of the sticky part and eventually you can grab the "rolled up edge" and pull at it. It should then pull off in one piece. There will be little tiny sticky marks left on the plastic but they come right up when you place the sticky rectangle piece down onto it and pull fast up.
The 2 USB port on the left hand side of my HP pavilion g6 not working after i formatted my system, it does not detect any devices plugged in these two ports, the operating system before was window 7 home premium but now it having window 7 professional, what can i do?
I just bought an HP touchsmart pavilion N229tx last week and I noticed now that it started creating grinding noises every 3 seconds whenever my laptop is on and running. The noise is coming from near the vent where the air is supposed to come out.
Also when I bought the laptop and opened it the first time I keep having the fan error upon startup saying that it had found that a fan is not operational I think it is error 90B. this now happens everytime I turn on the laptop.
The McAfee expired and each time it opens a new windows I get an error message and am asked to buy again. Started to freeze the screen and I'd have to shut down the unit and start again if I had more than 3 open windows.There was a system restore logo on the left side of the screen - so I thought maybe that would work - wrong thing to do!
Now it starts, and then the windows colored balls appear and turn into the logo - then nothing but blue gray screen. Tried doing F-8 system restore to factory settings, the last option, as recommended by MicroWarehouse where machine was purchased for Army son-in-law in 2011 - would not run completely. the instruction at 0x0411c2e3 referenced memory at 0x0db81030. The memory could not be written. went back to that F8 screen automatically so I tried it again - same message ar 0x44cc2r3 and back to the screen
since it said memory, I clicked on restore memory - which may have been wrong as it said I had videos, and I did not, and it said I had pictures, which I would only have had in e-mail. but I clicked to do it. Took several hours to run. and still screen is blue/gray. Now it won't even F8. Thinking my son-in-law may have disturbed something when he re-set it for me (took all their info off prior to military deployment - and when I tried to restore that may have conflicted with what he did. (We got him btter unit, I got old one)
I currently have an AA1 and am curious to those who tried typing on both the HP Mini and the AA1 keyboards and noticed a difference. I believe the HP's keyboard is 92% and the AA1's is 89% I believe. It feels "okay" to type on, obviously not the best due to its size compared to a normal keyboard, but am wondering if the HP's is worth the price jump (paid 300 for mine).
On my Black Macbook is it when it is charging the screen feels different than when it is running on the battery. For example, when it is charging and I run my finger along the screen there is more resistance and it is not as smooth as when it is running on the battery. Is this normal?