Is there anyone that is successfully using a BT headset on his/her Acer (with Windows 7)
If so which drivers and headset are you using?
I am currently using a headset with cables but this is a nag.
Under XP on my old laptop i always used a BT headset which gives you the freedom to get a cup of coffee while on the phone
I took an MSI Wind U100 webcam, it has the classic USB connection you expect for! The connector is at right instead at left like the original one.
You need:
-A WindU100 Webcam (1,3 Megapixel, a very good framerate),
-Dremel
-Some wire
-A decent soldering skill
-A lot of patience, and much more crazyness.
I don't want to post a Tut how to do it, you need only to know that pinout is the same and the colours are the same.
11 Black 3.3V
22 Purple D+
33 Red D-
44 Orange GND
Don't care about the fifth (GND too).
You need four wires to move the connection from the right to the left,and some dremel to leave out some "plastic keys" about the old one. Newer is a little thicker that the old one, so dremel the plastic at back of the webcam too.
The WindU100 Webcam has a led to show when it's used, so if you want you can do a hole to see it in the Acer. I didn't: the plastic is white so i see it too...!
A good idea is to change the whole cable if you have the MSI original one, but i didn't dismantle all....
I have a strange problem with Win7 (no matter if x86 or x64)...
I have 30Mbit internet connection, so I want to download some bigger files through internet during night.
I have all extra power features disabled (on CPU slowdown and screen dim and off allowed) and after few hours (sometimes 1, sometimes 4), the Windows 7 is in one of the two states:
a) when I move the mouse to wake up screen, only cursor goes up and I must restart notebook
b) when I move the mouse to wake up screen, screen goes up, but NO INTERNET CONNECTION
Must say, that it is the same with WIFI and also ETHERNET and is for sure Win7 problem, as when I install WinXP, everything is fine.
Anyone else having problems getting their 1810TZ (or any 1810 model I'd guess) working properly with an iPod Touch? I just got my Touch yesterday, and I tried tons of things last night. iTunes simply won't recognize my Touch.
At this point I just wanna know if anyone does have it working on an 1810 model with Win 7. I'm using the original WIn 7 Home Premium that came on it.
Does my laptop, E1-570-3321 not support a headset splitter? Because I'm unable to use a splitter because it's a combined jack, it plays sound, but doesn't detect audio.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI own an Acer Aspire R7-572G which has a combined 4-pin 3.5mm headset jack.
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I would like to use a normal microphone with an 3.5mm connector. The microphone did not work by directly plugging the connector into the socket, therefore I bought an adapter which splits the 4-pin output into speaker & microphone sockets.
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Now the microphone does work properly, however, unless I am connecting external speakers I am not able to use the internal notebook speakers. (maybe because the notebook assumes that a headset is plugged in)
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>>> Is there a way to use my external microphone and the internal notebook speakers?
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One more thing to mention: If I plug in the cable, a popup on the notebook appears asking which device I just plugged in. Sadly my only three options are "headphones", "speaker output" or "headset". NO MICROPHONE OPTION !!!
What to do?
View 3 Replies View Related(edit1 updated findings)
- Vista's Ramblings
I recently got a brand new VGN-FW31M laptop. When the power button was pressed for the first time, the Vista tyrrany started to uncompress itself... After waiting patiently for 15-20 minutes, the entire process was completed. This notebook has some muscle in it so vista should be no problem for it. The experience was a bitter-sweet disappointment. I am a power user and I don't like junk applications and sloppy OSes. The preconfigured installation was infested with sony's garbage plus tons of other trial and advertising stuff. Disgusted with all this mayhem, I rebooted the system to test it's responce. It took 30+ SECONDS for the system to shut down and even more to boot windows! I couldn't believe this... Even my oldest PIII rig could do better on XP. After several restarts and OS optimizations, the systems response times stayed more or less the same. Jerky mouse movement when using multitasking, delays and constant hd activity.The performance sucked for my standards. Imagine how it would be in 6 months with full application grinding!
XP downgrade was the only thought on my mind and after several days of pondering, experimenting and forum reading.
- Testing the XPrience:
I managed to switch to xp sp3 with 99% of the features (buttons, devices) working. The driver for Ati HD3470 that I am currently testing is a 9.1 modified desktop catalyst. The mod was done with Mobility Modder.NET 1.2. Fallout 3 works fluidly on medium graphics with good stability. I am currently testing high graphic settings with messy and crowded environment. Will post benchmarks later.................
Built in mic on my Aspire 5738ZG don't work properly when I use Skype. I'm on windows xp, 32 bit. I installed Audio Realtek drivers from Acer officialy web site but sound of mic is still very low. Other people said that they hear me very bad when we talk on Skype for example. What I can do?
View 1 Replies View RelatedHow to pinmod the PLL to disable TME (trusted Mode Enabled)
ICS 9LPRS365BKL Pin 11 (TME/PCI2) above (11th down from the top left) is required to be cut from track,
then routed to a GND point via 10k resistor to disable TME (trusted mode enabled) to allow setfsb overclocking.
Battery bar is holding pretty steady for me at 7:10 at total capacity. This is with brightness generally being at one step from the lowest, cpu at 1200, wifi, lan, etc on, and steady use of web/outlook/video without giving enough time for the screen to turn off.
View 10 Replies View RelatedIm a newcomer to both laptops and this forum. I found your ultimate 1410/1810 thread and I was redirected to these two threads:
Undervolting guide and 1810T undervolting guide
I managed to get up the profile for the RMClock but somehow the program showed me only one mutliplier, 6X. The CPU ran at 0.9V, but at 1,2GHz, while it should do 1,3GHz under load. I uninstalled the program and the CPU ran at 1,3GHz once again. I cant seem to find out where to get the second 6,5X multiplier
I have an 1810TZ and then I bought an 1810T. (Long Story)
My problem is with the TZ:
I made an Image of the system, as suggested, then I "Upgraded" the Win 7 Home system to Pro.
But I screwed up by installing the 32bit version instead of the 64bit.
The only way it would let me come back to the 64bit version of Pro was to do a "Clean install".
Here’s my problem:
1) Now the PC takes a Loooong Time to boot.
2) The PC has a 320Gb HDD but shows only 185Gb of "Total space" on C: .
The T with the same HDD, shows 285Gb total space.
Wow... Win 7 Pro takes 35GB of disk space? Did I do something wrong here too?
3) Now there is a hidden "System" D: drive using 100Mb, that was not there before.
I don't know how to get rid of the D: drive. It won't let me delete it or access it.
Something is weird here. I did not install any applications yet.
The PC does not recognize the "Image Disks" I made.
I started to re-install Win 7 Pro… but I didn't think that would get rid of the D: drive or fix the problem, so I didn't do it.
I think I need to re-format the HDD. But I'm not sure how to do it right and don't want to make things worse.
This is not the DOS 3.1 machine I used to have.
On the other hand:
When I got the 1810T I did a “Clean install” of WIN 7 Pro 64bit before I did anything else. There are no problems with the "T".
I ordered a Factory System Disk for the "TZ" from Acer and it should be here in a couple of days. I ordered it before I found this forum.
I am installing Vista 32 for a friend on his Aspire 1810TZ. A very new model I believe.
As yet I havn't been able to sourse the correct Wifi drivers. The drivers from the Acer site (intel 5100 and Atheros) Fail. The Atheros drivers tell me that the card isnt present whilst the intel drivers tell me that they may not be compatible then after installing, the device is reported as working properly but the front switch fails to turn the wireless on and, no networks are found in range. The intel diagnostic software reports the wireless as being switched off and sometimes as being on but with no networks to scan.
Any ideas as to what wireless device is present in this model or whether I should be looking at the wireless switch itself as a source of the problem?
Are there any tweaks to set up virtualisation on an AS1810TZ with a SU4100 processor.
I despirately need the use the XP mode but for this Virtual PC is neccessary
when Acer will update the 1410/1810t/1810tz with Arrandale (Core i) CULV processors?
View 10 Replies View RelatedI've recently purchased an Acer Aspire Timeline 1810TZ. I've removed all the bloatware, updated all drivers (including graphics, chipset, sound) and upgraded to latest BIOS.
It plays 1080p videos stored on the network absolutely perfectly, but it is jerky when playing YouTube 1080p content. It just about handles 720p YouTube. (I've tried both Flash 10 on IE and 10.1 on FF/Chrome). It runs iPlayer HD and Vimeo HD fine.
Has anyone else who has an 1810TZ managed to get YouTube HD working smoothly?
If not, is there anything else I can try and do we think that the final build of Flash 10.1 will improve things? Would a fourth gig of ram help?
I own a wonderful 1810TZ, which is a great machine. However, the extremely slow speed at which the battery charges greatly reduces its usefulness for me.
Is it possible to get a faster charger that will not toast my computer and/or me?
I'm interested in picking up an Acer 1410, but I've been looking at the specs for the new US version of the 1810TZ dual-core version. The spec sheet says that it comes with a 6-cell 5600 mAh battery, and the 1410 comes with a 6-cell 4200 mAh battery. I figure, since the bodies are the same, do you think that the larger battery from the 1810TZ will fit into the 1410? That would be an excellent upgrade to the already good battery life of the 1410.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI have bought today an Acer 1810TZ. I dont like the bloated Windows and would like to do a reinstall.
1) I am not sure what to do with the 12 GB Recovery Partition (Shall I save it on a 4 GB USB Stick and store it on DVD and then kill the partition?)
2) What shall I do with the other hidden Reserved Partition, that contains a Boot manager
in many different languages. Do I really need that?
What happens if everything is deleted and i press ALT + F10 for the recovery option? Would it then crash not being able to find those partitions?
3) What happens if I wanted to make this like the factory settings? Would I be able to recreate these partitions and copy the software back? Would it work like this?
I want to sell my 1810tz notebook because of different reasons, one is the buzzing noise problem over speaker or line-out. So is there any easy way in resetting the 1810tz drive C: to default state like out of the box state? There is a hidden partition 12Gb in size, is that a backup Windows 7 installation partition I can access while booting or so? And if yes, will it delete all data stored on the HDD just like clean installation?
View 4 Replies View Relatedi have acer 1810tz the problem is when im playing h.264 coded videos in fullscreen mode i have some strange line in the middle of the screen not always just sometimes specialy when there is movening in the video its like the video been divided into to pieces and then tried to put next to each other so it would be one picture,
in original size it works normal i tried all media players you can find and it still there i guess something is wrong with my graphic card
gpu driver are the latest from acer
Whenever I play a song, watch a video or even during skype calls and games, my sound stutters. The problem is occurring since my laptop overheated (left it on the bed). How do i fix it?
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have an issue with my 1810tz, Win7 64bit. There are these annoying buzzing noises when I use headphones over audio out. They are corresponding with the CPU load, when the CPU is idling they are louder and constant when the CPU is working they change the buzzing rhythmic but are not gone. I cant really they if they are there too over the build in speakers there is this buzzing sound sometimes, but I guess its the hdd in this case.
Disabling the audio btw does not mute this buzzing noises too. I had this issue maybe 8 years ago on my first desktop with integrated Realtek audio chip, so I guess its a driver issue or bad manufacturing like bad shielding or such. Im using latest Realtek audio drivers.
when I received my new 1810TZ last night was nuke it, kill the partitions, and start fresh. Installed my copy of Win7 Pro, and everything was good. All the drivers set up without issue.
Except the Bluetooth ones.
When I first ran the BT launcher, it said it couldn't find BT on my computer, and quit. So I dug into the folders and ran the installers manually.
As you can see, Windows apparently agrees that I have BT installed. In fact, after manually installing the drivers, running the BT launcher brings up a Repair dialogue. For all intents and purposes, Windows seems to be happy with my BT drivers.
Except that Windows itself won't run any Bluetooth software. When I type "Bluetooth" in the Start Menu box, I don't see options for "Add Bluetooth Devices" and the like. There's likewise nothing under the Control Panel, nor anything in my Programs lists.
If the drivers (supposedly) installed correctly, and the OS installed without incident, why can't I set up any Bluetooth pairings?
UPDATED FOR UBUNTU 10.04 LUCID LYNX
Here it comes, updated guide for Lucid.
Packard Bell / Gateway clones:
This guide has also been tested on a Packard Bell Dot M/U with bios v3303, and it should also work on the Gateway clone. If you have a 1410/1810 and something doesn't work, please report back.
What's working after a standard Ubuntu 10.04 install:GraphicsAudio out, speaker mutes when pluging in headphones. Good volume.Networking, both wireless (intel wifi 1000) and wired (the atheros gigabit)FN +:F4, suspends fineF6, monitor goes blackF7, touchpad on / offF8, muteF9, Bloq NumRePag: HomeAvPag: EndUp: increase volumeDown: decrease volumeRigh: increase brightness: skips steps.Left: decrease brightness: skips steps.J,K,L, etc: numeric keyboard ok.What's not working:Audio in: the integrated mic doesn't work.FN + F5: not recognised, doesn't toogle displaysAutomated Install (recommended): I've done a script that should do it all automatically. In detail:
What the script does:Configure gnome-power-manager backlight dim and hard disk power savingDownload, patch, install and setup acerhdfInstall the power saving scriptInstall the debugging scriptIf laptop-mode-tools is installed, suggest uninstalling and, if you want, uninstallFix the brightness hotkeys issue (jumps 2 levels on every key press)Disable ethernet Wake on Lan (doesn't enable when on AC)Disable uneeded services: cron, anacron and atd (they don't enable when on AC)What the script doesn't:Add the noatime parameter to the ext2/3/4 partitions in fstab. You'll have to do it manually.How it works:In a terminal, run ./InstallAcer_11.6_PowerSaving.sh --help to get a full list of options.If you want to install everything: ./InstallAcer_11.6_PowerSaving.sh --installDisclaimer:This script comes with no warranty. Use it at your own risk. I won't be responsible for any damage this could do to your system or data.Manual Install:
Power saving tips:The Script:By default, an ubuntu install won't take too much care of saving power, which is very important in an ultra mobile laptop. You can easily setup the system to enter some power saving modes, specifically the sata controller and the sound chip......................
I have a new 1810tz.
When on ac power the screen rear cover is lightly statically charged, running your finger over it feels like touching static.
Stops when on battery and other non acer charger does not produce the effect.
Is this normal?
Done some testing of chargers and charge rates. My non scientific findings as follows.
Battery start capacity 91.3%.
After 19 minute charge time -
Using 70watt charger :
Off 98%
On low power 98%
On full power 97%
Using 30watt charger :
Off 98%
On low power 97.5%
On full power 94.5%
To conclude the larger charger mostly maintains charge rate regardless of load on the computer.
The standard 30w charger maintains its charge rate on normal use, yet go to 100% CPU and charge rate drops by around 50%. It possible this could be far worse with an external USB HDD attached, 3G dongle and so on.
It seems that the computer can consume a little more than the 30w charger can output, but only of use in extreme circumstances.
Even with a larger charger the charge rate may drop if you had the computer consuming excessive levels of power, not sure what point this may occur.
Additionally batterymon charge rate indicator did not support the real world test.
I've got a problem with my 1810TZ. It wakes up from standby sometimes even when it's closed. If I have it in a case, it gets really hot.
I even know why it wakes up. Although the system log (Win7x64) says the power button is the bad guy, it's one of the keyboard keys. When the laptop is closed, and I press the display down on the right side, one of the keys is pressed (I guess something around the enter button).
Is there a way to disable the keyboard to wake the computer up? ........
I was thinking of picking up a 1810T with an SU7300 and 4GB DDR2; I want something portable, good on battery, and for (very) light gaming.
How would the 4500MHD handle KOTOR, WarCraft III, or TorchLight? These aren't very demanding games and I was hoping to be able to play them on the go...
Honestly, the 1810T is a very nice little system!
