I am planning on purchasing a new hard drive for my mid-2007 Macbook Pro. My MBP currently has a 120GB FUJITSU MHW2120BH, which runs at only 1.5Gb/s. However, the hard drive I want to purchase, Seagate Momentus 7200.4 runs at 3.0Gb/s. I don't know if there will be issues with this and if so, what are possible solutions?
I was just wondering if anybody knew if you can take a optical drive out of a apple ibook and put it in a Macbook 13 mid 2007, and if it would work?
I ask because my Macbook 13 mid 2007 optical drive has died and I have a drive from a ibook just laying around, please any info on this or if you know of a ibook model that would work with the macbook 13.
My photography hobby is getting more complex than originally anticipated, so I now want to upgrade my HD from the standard 120GB to something bigger, since I only have about 10 GB left.
I have been looking at the WD Scorpio Black (320GB, 7k200, priced $89 at newegg and 150 on WD site), but was wondering if it would work with my MacBook (late 07/early 08) and if there would be any difference with the sales package from Newegg and WD own site..
Also I was wondering how the performance is, and if there would be any noticeable difference between the 320 Black and a 500 Blue (both WD)?
Also, what is the procedure, when upgrading? My present drive is backed up via TimeMachine (with all docs, pictures, music and apps).
Yesterday, everything was running smoothly. My MBP was churning away running Fusion with an instance of XP, nothing too major. Today though, the video is out completely. I can't even get to the option menu on bootup to get it to switch to a Boot Camped Windows 7 (the boot up screen doesn't even show). So... what do I do now? The warranty is out. Am I out of luck? Any tricks I can try? I do plan on taking it to the nearby Apple store to see what they can do. I vaguely remember hearing something about the NVidia chips burning out, but the thing is I wasn't doing anything graphics intensive to begin with.
I even thought I might have dimmed the screen all the way, but using the keyboard to brighten it up didn't solve it. It wouldn't work anyway since even the boot screen doesn't show anything (not even the grey screen).
Assume for a second that you need to frequently exchange documents with people using Microsoft Office 2003 and 2007, and that you need to use an Office Suite that has a great UI, so that you can make great, professional looking Word documents in particular with ease.
Which office suite is the best, or if you selected "other", please say what office suite you are referring to.
I have ordered a Macbook Pro, but am totally stumped as to what I should do for an Office suite. If it helps, I can use Office 2007 like a pro and I love it!
To start I should remind everyone that i'm not a mac user. I have never owned a mac or used OSX properly before today. As such, my opinions should be taken as coming from someone who has much knowledge and experience as far as PC's are concerned, but who is a total mac n00b.
First Impressions
When I first walked over to the Macbooks I was quite taken aback. The build quality is out of this world. In fact, I immediately walked over to the latest PC laptops to compare and immediately thought "manufacturing FAIL". Really, the Macbooks are italian sports cars, and PC's are 30 year old farm tractors to use the typical "car analogy".
The Macbook
I really only had any interest in the Macbook when I first went to the Apple stand, but came away with the intention of buying a MacBook Pro. Let me explain:
The MacBook's build quality is awesome. It's solid, no creaking plastic or flexable build, completely and utterly solid. Awesome.............
Has anyone installed a SSD drive in this model with success? If so, does the BIOS need to be upgraded? I have a Vertex 120 SSD drive I'm not using and am thinking about putting it in the Sony and installing Win 7/32 bit.
I would like for all the current functions to work such as the camera and video card. Would this be a big issue or should I just reload the original OS(XP).
I have been speculating over this prospect giving the direction that Apple took with the starting price of the 24" iMac (upgrade everything else and downgrade the VRAM).
I mean, this is something I would like to see, but I wonder if it is a smart move on Apple's part given how much they make off the current MBP's with the so called Apple Tax.
And, if they made this move, one has to wonder if it still would be considered a Pro.
This is going to be my very first Mac. I'm really excited about it, but I don't know which one I should go for... I narrowed it down to these two models. Which one should I go for and why?
I bought a black macbook this summer and every night when I'm in bed trying to do work I can barely see which keys is which. Obviously this wouldn't be a cheap fix but is there a way or is it possible to install the new light up keys of the new macbooks onto a pre-remodel macbook?
I downloaded this updated for my unibody Macbook Pro, and I think it's pretty vital. However, it gave me this error when I tried to install it: "You cannot install Macbook, Macbook Pro software update on this volume. This update requires Mac OS X 10.5.5 or newer." Now don't tell me that I have selected the wrong partition to install the update, or that I need to update my OS to 10.5.5 because I already have 10.5.6 and I chose the Macintosh HD partition to install the update.
So I'm definitely getting a 13" Macbook or Macbook Pro. Apple has some great prices on refurbs so that's probably the route I'll be going however I'm having trouble discerning the difference between the 13" Aluminum Unibody standard macbook and the 13" Unibody Macbook Pro. From what I've read they both have the upgraded screen, they're obviously both unibody, both have the large button-less trackpad, and both have the 9400m. They even have the same dimensions and the only difference I can see between the images is a slightly different case bevel (also the firewire and sd card ports, both are useless to me).
Unfortunately, none of the Apple stores or BestBuys in the area have a non-pro unibody 13" Macbook for me to actually handle and compare. So, basically, what makes the pro version with the slower cpu and smaller hard drive at the same price point worth it?
If I make an image of my hdd from my white macbook with disk utility onto a hard drive I take out of a unibody macbook pro will it work and boot properly?
I will do this by taking the 250gb hdd out of the unibody macbook pro and putting it into a sata external usb hdd enclosure, then making an image of my current 120gb white macbook and writing the image onto the 250gb. After, I plan to put the 250gb hdd back into the macbook pro and boot it up normally as if everything from my white macbook was just copied onto the macbook pro.
I own a copy of 2007 office professional. I took it off my laptop and tried to put it on my desktop. I remember activating the software on my laptop and thought if I uninstall it on the control panel (add remove programs) I can just install it on my desktop. When I tried installing it on my desktop it tells me that the code is already been activated and gives me 30 chances to use it. How do I deactivate it and activate it on my desktop?
I own legit copy of Office 2007 Professional as I already activated it on my laptop. If need be I can take pictures of the cd's itself.
I have aspire 5720 bought in 2007. It stopped suddenly. On pressing power button start up light comes on which stays about 5 sec and switches off. Tried with and without battery but same. Fan starts and in a se laptop is off. I have removed HDD and put it back and same to ram. Also did power reset by holding on power button for a minute without battery plugged in but no luck.
I just wanted to double-check if it's possible to drop in a Santa Rosa "refresh" into an older M1300 (Nov. 2007, std. SantaRosa w/ T7500, latest BIOS) and if it makes sense to...
I can buy a "boxed" T9300 for about €300, which does not exactly translate into a cheap upgrade so before I do so, I'd like to know if anyone's done it and if the performance boost is worth it...
She has a white macbook with leopard I think, and has a separate partition in which she has boot camp, she uses specialized software that can only run in windows (doesnt run in vm). She got a new macbook air but wants to keep everything intact.
Do programs like duper clone drives with all files intact, including partitions? Keep in mind that the windows side is more important, installation of this software can only be done remotely from Russia, so it's a bit of a hassle if we screw up, we have to contact IT at a specific time and get them to do it.
Would I have to take the drive of the macbook air out? Or can i just clone to an external hard drive and then move that to the mba hard drive, in target disc mode or something.
I really love the black color of MB404, but is it good? does it crack easily?(is it plastic?)
Hows screen quality?
What do you think? which one should i buy?
I really wanted to buy Alu one before i hear about slanted keys and loose battery covers(i know %99 of them don't have that, but it's hard to risk when there's no way to fix it in here), because there's no Mac center in my country and i'm SO picky.
Can I recover MS Office Home & Student 2007 Trial Edition from the factory backup I did when I get the laptop, but without recovering anything else?
This is an Aspire 4530 running Vista.
The trial version expired and I wanted to uninstall it and install my own copy of Office 2003. But if course it would not uninstall - probably because I wasn't the real "Administrator" at the time. I followed the MS guide for forceably uninstalling and deleting the product, but that failed also.
The only recourse seems to be to re-install it from the 3 factory backup DVDs that I made when I got the laptop. But I have a feeling that all I can do is recover (overwrite) the C drive from the recovery DVDs - either all or nothing. Is that correct?
my new Studio 1737 did not come with McAfee Security Center or Microsoft Office Home & Student pre loaded...
can I just pop them in my cd drive and install them? Should I do anything different first? Also noticed that my McAfee disck states..."This Cd only installs a trial version of your McAfee programs..
I've been looking at basicly two models, both got almost the exact same price tag here in Norway, so I'm not sure which one to go for.
The first ones is a MacBook Pro 15" with High-resolution 1650x1080 glossy screen, featuring the top of the line Intel Core i7-620M CPU the other is a MacBook Pro 17" with even higher resolution (1920x1200) glossy screen, featuring the slightly slower Intel Core i5-540M.
I don't list the other specifications as I don't really care about them, I already got a pair of 4GB 1600MHz CL7 (2x2GB) DIM's and a Intel X25-M 80GB SSD that I'll be using anyway.
There will be lots of movies and series played on my MacBook Pro, that's why I don't really considering paying a premium for the anti-glare screen, even though I love anti-glare and tend to struggle with glossy screens I don't see the point in actually paying more for it. And when watching movies and series, in often very dark rooms the glossy screen actually have some advantages.
The hard thing to decide here is slicker and lighter, with smaller screen and lower resolution, but better CPU versus the bigger, more heavy but featuring bigger screen and Full-HD+ resolution but slower CPU.....................
1-a 13" MacBook Pro, primary use will be Internet and e-mail and manipulating music files. Will my husband really notice a difference/benefit between the basic 2.26 and the 2.53GHZ (and is it worth about $250 more)? If he uses it for video downloading will that make a difference?
2- a 15" MacBook Pro- here I'm debating between the 2.66 and 2.8. My daughter uses it for Office apps, PhotoShop, music, Internet and e-mail. Again, would video downloading make a difference?