I don't have time for a full review because one of the reasons I jumped so quickly into this new notebook is that I am on a deadline. However there are a few first observations I don't want to forget about, should anyone be interested in a more complete review.
A little history first. I have been a Mac user for the past 20 years. I grew up with them, have been responsible for them in an IT capacity and have made a living generating content from them. I know the platform well. I am however not the type of guy to put all his eggs in one basket and also routinely use Windows, mostly for gaming, and Linux, mostly for serving.
The point is, I make my living around the Mac.
Purchase and Arrival. I made the decision to buy after 6 hours of spec shopping. I called around to the local Best Buy (you never know until checking) and the closest Apple store, which for me is 120 miles away. Neither had them in stock, but they both at least knew what I was talking about. The Apple store didn't have an ETA, but expected them within the week. That wasn't fast enough for me this time, so I ordered directly from Apple. This was Tuesday night at 5pm. Wednesday at 2:30PM, I took delivery. Nice. The outer packaging was a plain brown box. Inside, the standard Mac packaging with nothing but the notebook, a power adapter, and a simple folder with barebones manuals and the OS DVDs. Good presentation, but not a lot of goodies............
I just opened my first ever macbook pro from its box. I've noticed immediately that when the unit is tilted in any direction, sideways, back, any direction, an electrical "buzzing" sound will emit from the components under the keyboard.
It sounds very much like the "zzzzzzzzzzzz" sound one hears as they drive by power lines on the side of the road....only toned down quite a bit, obviously. But it's definetly an electrical noise. It's only emitted when I move the computer, but it's already annoying...I hear it every time. And I move/adjust/reposition this laptop around allot.
I'm having some issues with my MacBook's USB hub. I have the macbook from 2007 I believe that has 2.0GHz and 1GB of RAM. WHenever I connect my iPhone to the USB port to sync, it pops up with this dialog box that says that my iPhone is drawing too much power and thus the USB hub will be deactivated.
if I want to connect the macbook to an external LCD monitor, I will need a mini-DVi to DVI adapter, but the adapter is so short. So should I connect the adapter to the DVi cable that is connect to the monitor? The adapter is so short that there is no way it can be directly connected to the monitor......
I will be teaching in China with my MacBook with OS X. What do I need to enable me to use Chinese electricity? Do I need to know anything special to hook up to the internet at a university or an internet cafe? I will be in & near Beijing.
I am looking for a reliable car power inverter for my 2007 Macbook Pro. My car has 2 power outlets (12V / 120W). I know there is a 15A fuse, so the maximum it can handle is 180W, but of course I do not want to take that risk and stay around the recommended 120W. Because of this, it limits the number of choices I have concerning power inverters. I have seen one from Duracell called the Pocket Inverter 100. Here are the specifications:
AC Output Power (Max Continuous): 80W AC Output Power (Peak): 100W AC Output Surge Capacity (Peak): 160W AC Output Voltage (Nominal): 120V AC Output Waveform: Modified Sine Wave
So, this leads to a few questions:
(1) The MBP Magsafe Adapter requires 85W. However, this inverter can provide only 80W of maximum continuous power. Will this be sufficient to charge and run the MBP in the car?
(2) I searched around and read a few posts by others regarding pure sine wave and how it is important to have it running to laptops. Now, this inverter has an output of a Modified Sine Wave. Will this be fine and will the Magsafe adapter be able to handle this?
(3) recommendations for car power inverters within these specifications?
My 3 months old unibody macbook pro power down itself when i am use batteries. i did smell somethings burning after it is been powerdown, do you all face this by the way i am just surfing cnet tv, call apple singapore and they ask me to bring to HQ
I have a Dell Inspiron 1520 and my friend has a Latitude D820.
Tonight she accidentally plugged my power adapter into her laptop. A few hours later, she noticed that her laptop indicated that it wasn't plugged in, and that's when we realized that she had accidentally used my adapter instead of hers.
Now my adapter doesn't work at all. We've tried the adapter with both our laptops with different outlets with the same problem, so we know it's the adapter. The green light also doesn't come on when it's plugged in anymore.
Did plugging my adapter into her laptop somehow screw up my adapter, or could this just be a coincidence? Is there any way to fix the adapter or at least figure out what the problem is? And if I have to purchase a new adapter, do the universal ones they sell at retail electronics stores work OK? I would order one from Dell but I'm working on a project now and I don't have time to wait for it to ship.
I just want to get an idea of the power of the 9600m GT video card that comes with the macbook pro's. Now on my desktop computer I have a 3 year old ATI 1600x 512mb PCI-e video card which is definitely getting old. My question is can anybody tell me how the 9600m GT compares to the ATI 1600x, is it better? this way I can get an idea of the power of the 9600m GT because I know pretty well what the 1600x is capable of.
A few weeks ago my battery started to function poorly...checked out the diagnostics, showed it was in "poor" condition. I planned on going to Apple store soon but now my power adapter has also seemed to have gone bad. I plug it in, but no power goes to the Macbook Pro ( I can start it on limited battery and see no power being received) and the little green light isn't going on the plug into the computer itself. The power brick or whatever you want to call it gets very warm but I think that could be a malfunction? Before I call Apple do you think I just need a new battery and AC adapter?
Looks like our hunches about what's inside the next MacBook Pros are panning out: AppleInsider hears that Apple's got new MacBook Pros running that can switch between integrated and discrete graphics automagically, which exactly describes Nvidia's Optimus dual graphics tech.
If you remember, the unibody MacBooks from Oct. 2008 were the first to use Nvidia's GeForce 9400M, a combination chipset/integrated GPU that ridiculously outperformed Intel's own integrated graphics, and the Pro models at the time could switch between power-saving integrated and beefier discrete graphics, though it requires a logout.
Nvidia got cockblocked from making chipsets for Intel's latest-gen chips (read: Core i3, Core i5, Core i7), ruling out using Nvidia's better integrated graphics; Nvidia canned their chipset business entirely. So! Nvidia's Optimus tech works with Intel's crappier integrated graphics that are built onto the same die as the newer Core processors, but even more seamlessly than beforeóthe computer automatically switches between Intel's power-sipping integrated and Nvidia's monster discrete graphics, depending on what you're doing. No logouts required.
In the demo we saw on a Windows machine, the automatic part of the tech has some drawbacksónamely, it's entirely dependent on software to tell your computer which graphics card to run. But Apple's obviously worked pretty closely with Nvidia on graphics before, so it seems logical they're doing so here, too. Though I don't expect we'll know until the new MacBooks finally arrive, whenever that happens (hopefully, soon).
I have just installed an i7 2670Qm on my T420 today.The machine will crash pretty soon after booting up, with the screen having colorful vertical and horizontal lines before it restarts itself and give the memory error beeping pattern (1 beep-pause-3 beeps-3 beeps-pause-1 beep).So then I took out one RAM from the bottom, and the machine appears to work normally again, more or less. ¬† In the OS (Win7 64), The power manager alerts me that the 65w AC adapter is giving not enough power, so the laptop is running on battery.¬†I thought I just need a 90W AC brick so the laptop will work as it should, so I am arranging a 90w one to come in later. But on a second thought, if the battery cannot start the laptop with 8GB of RAM properly. ¬† Is it the CPU or RAM or Mobo or something else? Where should I look?The machine works fine with the previous CPU i3-2310m and 8GB of RAM.The RAM modules I have are 2 x 4GB Samsung 2Rx8 PC3-12800S-11-11-F3.The BIOS version is updated to the latest 1.46.
Our Studio 1749 will retain a solid connection when the power adapter is plugged into¬†the power board along the side of my laptop. I am unsure if the pins residing in the power board are pushed toward each other so as to not retain connection when the adpater in plugged into the laptop.
Just a quick question: has anyone seen what Office 2010 is going to look like? I know that it's suppose to have Outlook, but I haven't been able to find any legible screen shots or credible information on what the new program will contain or how it's different that 2008, etc. I don't know, maybe there's nothing out there except rumors, but I was just curious.
I just got a MacBook Pro 13 in and noticed that when I'm using it but then get up to move somewhere else, it makes a clicking sound as I lift up from my lap. Is this normal? Maybe the hard drive is preparing to move or something?
Can anyone tell me if this is a new model or old mid-2007. Cause some one I know thinks they have a newer computer that has this model number/ECM. Is that model # and ECM also for current systems or are they only for older ones?
I recently purchased a new base model 15" Macbook Pro with the firm intention of upgrading the main drive to a SSD. Historically, there has been some issues with a do-it-yourself upgrade to SSD using Mac hardware and I happy to report that I have had no issues, save those caused by myself in the doing the swap.
I decided the best course of action was to use a SSD for my main application and OS drive, and use a standard 2.5" mechanical HD for my files. The downside is, of course, you lose your internal Superdrive. However, as I was contemplating this, I realized that I rarely use my optical drive outside of software installs. It then became an easy choice. Of course, you can always just swap the standard internal drive for a SSD, but space and cost quickly become deciding factors. Keep in mind that if you plan to install Windows 7, you need at least 20GB of space just for it, before any other Windows software. Snow Leopard takes around 8GB and some of the higher end software can take gigabytes on their own (The Final Cut Studio suite alone takes around 50GB).
After a ton of research with some conflicting information I decided on the Crucial M225 128GB SSD. It uses the Indilinx Barefoot controller with 64MB of cache and is price competitive at around $325. The Kingston V-series is cheaper, but uses a modified J-micron controller (meh - sorry J-micron, too much history there). Another choice, and one I nearly made, is a Corsair series drive. Note that apparently the Nova series has some issues with the Macintosh notebook line, so the P series will be your best bet there. Of course, you could go for the gold and choose an Intel based SSD. Most Mac guys seem to have the best luck with these drives, but I decided I like the price/performance of the Crucial better..............
I just got my new MacBook Pro 15" (with auto graphics switching) and was a bit surprised that the discrete graphics card was always on... so I started investigating what apps might be triggering that! As far as I could tell, I wasn't running anything graphics intensive... so it was a surprise to me what I found out
There are a lot more apps causing this than the ones I listed initially... a more complete and up-to-date list can be found at this thread on MacRumors forums.
It's possible to know what graphics card you're currently using by installing GPUInfoMenu or gfxCardStatus, the latter also allows to force switching from discrete to integrated, or vice-versa.