When I unplug (go to battery power), the green battery-light-led goes on and overrides the brightness-settings I do with Windows 7. This means whenever I plug-in or plug-out the brigthness gets reset to some value that Acer thinks is 'right' for me. I would like to decide myself what is right for me, but can't find out how.
What makes it worse is that at first it works like:
Which is reasonable. However, after pluggin-in/out a few times, it goes all screwy. For example: unplugged becomes 50%, plugged-in becomes 10%, or some other seemingly random non-sense-making values. So, I would like to get rid of this.
Pressing the green led when it's on makes it go off and seems to give brightness-control back to windows-settings. However, as soon as pluggin-in and plugging-out again, the green led comes on again. Argh.
I read some other threads about similar issues, but people would always have Acer ePower Management or something installed. I do not. This happens on a fresh clean install of Windows 7. Bios is up-to-date. Happens in every power mode (saver/balanced/performance).................
My Timeline 4810TZ comes with SU4100 1.3Ghz, 3GB DDR3 RAM, Samsung 400GB HDD. I installed Win 7 32 bit. I'm getting random freeze during normal usage such as browsing, file copying etc. I have tried running Prime95(3 tests), OCCT and Linpack, Memtest86+(DOS) and Windows memory diagnostics. No problem were detected. I reinstalled OS with Win 7 64 bit and still facing the same problem. Occasionaly there will be BSODs. I have installed the latest BIOS with all the latest drivers available.
Is there compatibility problem with Win 7 OS or there is hardware problem with my Timeline?
I got a new Acer Timeline 4810TZ-4011...It's great! BUT I can not see my usb flash drive, where I have some files to transfer to the Acer, when I connect it to the usb ports. Usually I can open My Computer Icon on my desktop old computer and I can see the pen drive...But how I do it now?
now, after every drivers/applications installed, i notice screen brightness goes up and down by itself, (it dims then goes back to bright).
This only happens when Power Saver button is pressed (lit green). It did not do this with Win 7 32bit.
i assume, it is power saving feature interfering with win 7's power scheme. Kinda cool.. but just wanted to know anyone else is having this *cool* trick..
I bought a 3810TZ with SU2700, but I have noticed that when on battery power and brightness set to low, the brightness of the screen would change automatically by itself according to the background. for example, the screen would darken if you have something dark open on the screen, and the screen would become brighter if you have a web page that's mainly white. Is this a feature in windows vista, or is the LCD screen defective?
I used the upgrade kit from Acer to do a clean install of Windows 7 to my Timeline 1410. Everything works great and I love this laptop... except that the brightness controls (Fn+Left/Right Arrow) do not work. It's locked at highest brightness.
I am at my wit's end trying to figure this out.
I have installed all the Win 7 drivers from Acer's site, particularly
When I first boot it up, the brightness controls work fine during the BIOS steps. But once Windows takes over, the controls no longer function. In the Windows Mobility Center, there is no brightness control panel. [FWIW, my Dell, which does have functional brightness control, doesn't show one either.] All other Fn-combinations, like volume control, work fine.
I've got my hands on a Acer 4810tz that needs help and I'm trying to figure out what the cause of my problem is.
When the computer boots up (even in POST), the background of the screen is green, and when loading up into windows, anything that would consist of the color green results in distorted and blurred images. All the other colors appear fine.
I did some troubleshooting, including updating the bios and testing the VGA out connection to an external monitor to confirm its not a motherboard/gpu problem.
I'm wondering if simply the connection to the motherboard and the laptop screen got loose, or could the screen inverter be going bad?
In either case, I would have no problem taking apart the laptop to reseat the cables and put it all back together, but I'm not familiar with Acer's warranty policies. The laptop is still under warranty until August.
I know Dell and HP really don't care (or are too stupid to know) if you disassemble a laptop and put it back together, but I don't know where Acer stands.
It looks rather simple to disassemble, but it appears there is a screw underneath a sticker, which I'm assuming serves as the 'Warranty Void if Removed' sticker.
I bought the laptop today. When I first plugged it in, the LED turned yellow when charging. From reading another thread I thought it would turn blue when charged and plugged in, yet the light just goes out after a while. Is it broken? Quick guide also says blue light should be on after the battery is charged.
I tried removing the battery, put it back in, plugged the laptop in, blue light came on for a few seconds, then went out again.
When I unplug my laptop from the AC adapter, Acer's ePower system automatically dims the LCD brightness to a setting that is 2 levels above the lowest (and 7 below the highest). However, when resuming the laptop from standby, I noticed that the setting is increased to 4 levels above the lowest (and 5 below the highest). I'm kind of a stickler for these sorts of things and would prefer for Windows not to change the LCD brightness if the ePower manager is supposed to be handling it. Is anyone else noticing this, and if so, have you corrected it somehow?
FYI, I should mention that I recently downloaded an updated version of Acer's ePower management system from Acer's support website - this updated version corrected an error that was occurring where my optical drive wouldn't "wake up" after ePower management shut it down, so I would prefer not to downgrade.
I'm frankly a little confused about where exactly all the Acer-specific power options are located. What is the difference between ePower and PowerSmart? Or are they the same thing? I could go on, but I think I've raised enough questions.
The design looks simply beautiful. The silver lid and the gun metal color inside is awsome. The dark colors inside will help in not causing any strain for your eyes even after working for long time.
The touchpad too has a matte finish, making it easy to use. It is very responsive. The scroll and zoom gestures helps a lot in reducing the effort though am not convinced with the third gesture, would be good if this gesture could be used for something better.
Option to turn off/on the bluetooth and wifi via the buttons/touch buttons is really good, I had trouble with some other laptops trying to find out how to do this.
The option to turnoff the screen helps conserve energy, while listening to music or doing some activity which do not need any human intervention. The screen is bright enough. I keep it at the lowest brightness while working, without any issues...............
One is marketed as business-grade, another is consumer-grade. Both look very similar and I am not sure if the materials used are any different. So tell me, as I am preparing to buy my next laptop.
Generally I'm very pleased with the 4810TZ, but recording from the built-in microphone or an external microphone produces very faint recordings (maybe 5-10% of normal volume). I'm using Sound Recorder in Windows 7 64-bit, with latest Windows / Acer driver for the Realtek sound device - have also tried the latest driver from Realtek.com.tw.
I've done all the normal tweaks - turn off all effects, set auto gain control, set input level to maximum, try boosting one mic channel more than other, setting +30 dB boost, etc.
I did get slightly higher recording levels in Skype 4.2, but still not enough to be usable (less than 20%). Even shouting into the mic doesn't get that much playback volume.
I've seen some reports that the 4810TZ's internal mic and sound recording used to work fine on Vista but broke with the Win7 upgrade.
Has anyone out there had success with recording on the 4810TZ, using any non-USB microphone, internal or external? Would really like to hear from people using any Windows version, XP/Vista or 7, just to see if it's possible or a hardware issue.
Friend recently purchased this new laptop, but it's a bit sluggish. i want to do a clean install, but of course there was no Windows Vista DVD provided. How do i create a copy of the Vista installed on this Acer laptop? Does Acer ERecovery spit out a Windows image or does it copy over all the bloat ware as well? Is it hidden in some folder like Lenovos?
this thread is for all Acer Timeline owners who suffer from 100% CPU load, when only thing that helps is restart.
1. If you are a Timeline owner - having this problem or not, please do report here, what model you own and tell us how is this happening for you.
2. Please inform Acer about this, so they know and can offer a solution (especially if you're from United States as this will have greater impact rather than me telling this stuff to Slovak Acer service)
Alright, this is what I got so far about this thing: -CPU will just go nuts at no specific time (idle, browsing, ...) -Proccess explorer shows 'Hardware Interrupts' as source of 99.9% of CPU power -unlogging won't help, only restart does -updating BIOS doesn't help -uninstalling acer epower managment doesn't help, even though it seems making these episodes less frequent somehow
Mine notebook is: 5810T with SU3500 and GMA 4500MHD.......................
My 4810T has the fan always on (not too loud, but on nevertheless...). I can't tell if it's because of the CPU (intel SU9400) or the GPU (intel gma 4500mhd).
Is there any option where I can control this? I'm on Ubuntu and I'm using the "CPU frequency scaling monitor" applet to throttle the CPU, but even in it's lowest frequency, the fan never shuts down.
I had installed Windows 7 and it was working fine but it blue screened and now it won't start. Fine, I decided I'd just reinstall it but if I put my flash drive in it will just stick at the Acer Empowering People splash screen and won't move for a while and then just goes to a screen about something being not connected and then it'll boot to the normal start Windows Recovery (Which doesn't work) and start Windows normally. If you try to start it normally it'll either stay on the Windows animation starting or get to login and then i'll input my password but it goes to Blue Screen.
I formatted the flash drive using this guide [url]
I've tried having USB FDD and USB HDD as the first boot option and still nothing.
I was looking at the Acer Timeline 3810t and I am thinking about purchasing it because the battery life is great and so is the performance. Yet, the one thing I found that may hold me from purchasing is the stiff mousepad buttons brought up in many reviews. I was wondering if anyone who has this laptop has experience with the touchpad buttons. Are the really stiff that it would annoy someone who uses their laptop on the go without an external mouse?
I uninstalled all the extra software that this laptop came with. One problem i am having is every SECOND start up, the computers loads very slow. The next time i turn on the laptop it will load really fast and all the icons and stuff will pop up right away. Then the next time it will be slow again, windows load then only the wallpaper visible, the icons on desktop and the start bar is not there for about 2 mins.
I tried to restart and i noticed it is always on the second start up.
Also i tried to format my laptop with XP on a usb stick. When i get to the set up, it can not detected the harddrive but only the usb stick.
I'm looking at getting the Timeline 4810t with either the SU2700 or SU3500. Can anyone tell me any discernible differences I'll find between the two? Right now I'm looking at about an $80 difference between the two (also 1gb more ram with the SU3500).
Also, fyi this laptop will be for law school so it won't be very task intensive besides internet research, word processing, onenote etc.
computer beeps everytime the adapter gets taken out and plugged in. I tried lowering the volume, turning the sound scheme to no sound. But the beeping still happens.
I've previously had good experiences with HP until their past few models which have been a nightmare for a long, long list of reasons. But this post isn't about HP it's about Acer. This is my first Acer product and I've had a very positive response to the quality of their design but a very poor experience with the quality of manufacturing.
The unit I purchased is the Acer Aspire Timeline 4810T (1.4Ghz, 4gb, 14", 320GB WD) from Staples (US retailer) for the bargain price of 544.98 USD.
The most attractive aspects of the 4810T includes:
* The battery (wow!) * The excellent, bright LED screen * Fantastic keyboard (the fn key is to the right of ctrl, perfect!) * Synaptics touchpad (the best) * Super quiet fan even when playing games and doing heavy processing * Decent speakers (dolby) with great sound through headphones * USB ports on both sides
Some of the less attractive aspects include:
* Keyboard audio functions seem to rely upon software instead of hardware and can fail during heavy processing or if the OS hangs * As a single piece of platic instead of separate buttons. The touchpad button only works on the edges with the center being "dead" * No dock * No expansion slot * The speakers beep loudly when power is connected/disconnected if the speakers are on (annoying) * The wireless light blinks during activity instead of just being on or off (annoying) * The screen hugs the keyboard too closely creating key-shaped oil deposits on the screen (not uncommon but undesirable and a source for damage if something hard like a grain of sand is on the keyboard)
I have a 4810T (SU3500) and the wireless connection is giving me some issues. After a suspend or restart the wireless connection does not reconnect properly. Sometimes the icon says I'm connected but there is no data transfer. I have to disconnect/reconnect or turn off/turn on the wireless via the touch sensitive button. Once I do that the wireless connection is rock solid.
I'm using the newest Intel drivers and Bios version 1.23
