i have only had my MBP 13 for a few months and thinking of giving my dell to my business partner. When i open the screen and then let it sit for a few seconds then attempt to open it a little more it squeaks and crackles sometimes like it was stuck in place. Does this happen to any of you and it is a problem that i should take it to apple for? Any solutions because it feels like i am going to break something sometimes when opening the screen a little more. Like a plastic rubbing against metal sound when something is too tight.
To start I should remind everyone that i'm not a mac user. I have never owned a mac or used OSX properly before today. As such, my opinions should be taken as coming from someone who has much knowledge and experience as far as PC's are concerned, but who is a total mac n00b.
When I first walked over to the Macbooks I was quite taken aback. The build quality is out of this world. In fact, I immediately walked over to the latest PC laptops to compare and immediately thought "manufacturing FAIL". Really, the Macbooks are italian sports cars, and PC's are 30 year old farm tractors to use the typical "car analogy".
I really only had any interest in the Macbook when I first went to the Apple stand, but came away with the intention of buying a MacBook Pro. Let me explain:
The MacBook's build quality is awesome. It's solid, no creaking plastic or flexable build, completely and utterly solid. Awesome.............
I bought a black macbook this summer and every night when I'm in bed trying to do work I can barely see which keys is which. Obviously this wouldn't be a cheap fix but is there a way or is it possible to install the new light up keys of the new macbooks onto a pre-remodel macbook?
I downloaded this updated for my unibody Macbook Pro, and I think it's pretty vital. However, it gave me this error when I tried to install it: "You cannot install Macbook, Macbook Pro software update on this volume. This update requires Mac OS X 10.5.5 or newer." Now don't tell me that I have selected the wrong partition to install the update, or that I need to update my OS to 10.5.5 because I already have 10.5.6 and I chose the Macintosh HD partition to install the update.
So I'm definitely getting a 13" Macbook or Macbook Pro. Apple has some great prices on refurbs so that's probably the route I'll be going however I'm having trouble discerning the difference between the 13" Aluminum Unibody standard macbook and the 13" Unibody Macbook Pro. From what I've read they both have the upgraded screen, they're obviously both unibody, both have the large button-less trackpad, and both have the 9400m. They even have the same dimensions and the only difference I can see between the images is a slightly different case bevel (also the firewire and sd card ports, both are useless to me).
Unfortunately, none of the Apple stores or BestBuys in the area have a non-pro unibody 13" Macbook for me to actually handle and compare. So, basically, what makes the pro version with the slower cpu and smaller hard drive at the same price point worth it?
If I make an image of my hdd from my white macbook with disk utility onto a hard drive I take out of a unibody macbook pro will it work and boot properly?
I will do this by taking the 250gb hdd out of the unibody macbook pro and putting it into a sata external usb hdd enclosure, then making an image of my current 120gb white macbook and writing the image onto the 250gb. After, I plan to put the 250gb hdd back into the macbook pro and boot it up normally as if everything from my white macbook was just copied onto the macbook pro.
She has a white macbook with leopard I think, and has a separate partition in which she has boot camp, she uses specialized software that can only run in windows (doesnt run in vm). She got a new macbook air but wants to keep everything intact.
Do programs like duper clone drives with all files intact, including partitions? Keep in mind that the windows side is more important, installation of this software can only be done remotely from Russia, so it's a bit of a hassle if we screw up, we have to contact IT at a specific time and get them to do it.
Would I have to take the drive of the macbook air out? Or can i just clone to an external hard drive and then move that to the mba hard drive, in target disc mode or something.
I really love the black color of MB404, but is it good? does it crack easily?(is it plastic?)
Hows screen quality?
What do you think? which one should i buy?
I really wanted to buy Alu one before i hear about slanted keys and loose battery covers(i know %99 of them don't have that, but it's hard to risk when there's no way to fix it in here), because there's no Mac center in my country and i'm SO picky.
I've been looking at basicly two models, both got almost the exact same price tag here in Norway, so I'm not sure which one to go for.
The first ones is a MacBook Pro 15" with High-resolution 1650x1080 glossy screen, featuring the top of the line Intel Core i7-620M CPU the other is a MacBook Pro 17" with even higher resolution (1920x1200) glossy screen, featuring the slightly slower Intel Core i5-540M.
I don't list the other specifications as I don't really care about them, I already got a pair of 4GB 1600MHz CL7 (2x2GB) DIM's and a Intel X25-M 80GB SSD that I'll be using anyway.
There will be lots of movies and series played on my MacBook Pro, that's why I don't really considering paying a premium for the anti-glare screen, even though I love anti-glare and tend to struggle with glossy screens I don't see the point in actually paying more for it. And when watching movies and series, in often very dark rooms the glossy screen actually have some advantages.
The hard thing to decide here is slicker and lighter, with smaller screen and lower resolution, but better CPU versus the bigger, more heavy but featuring bigger screen and Full-HD+ resolution but slower CPU.....................
I have an XPS m1330 and it's cool but I dont like it because the hinge is naturally too loose so when I use it with my always-on carry case the screen just falls down and closes the lid when I'm lying on my bed due to gravity.
I also have a 1520 and the hinge is so stiff its awesome! You really need force to close it which is what I like!
Well I'm thinking of getting the XPS 16 and it looks like the same hinge design of the m1330 so I just want to know for those people who own the XPS 16 if the hinge is easily closed or not because if it is then I cant buy it.
I have a 5920g computer which I adore, sadly we always hurt the ones we love, I dropped it and broke the right hinge, because of that the plastic frame of the monitor ripped 2. It still works perfectly fine, but its annoying as hell to watch my lappy like this all the time. I called acer, and found a provider who can repair it for 400 dlrs (I payed 1000 dlrs for the lap) so well, its seem outrageous to me paying 40% of the total price for a hinge replace.
Anyway, I found the hinge and the other parts on Ebay singapore, for less tan 100 dlrs. So, heres my question, does anyone know how hard is it to replace this parts, I am a mildy medium kinda handy guy, with some hardware skills. So anyone know if this is hard, is there a guide around that can show me the process, or should I just pay the 400 dlrs and get this thing done.
Our Acer 5920 is less than a year old, but not by much so I gotta make a decision soon. I'm hoping to get some help from you folks.
There's a little crack in the frame surrounding the LCD screen. I attached an image.
This laptop has seen very limited use. I use a strong, well padded case when transporting.
I called Acer. A gal said I can send it to them, they'll make a determination whether it's covered or not, if not they'll call me and tell me how much it'd cost to fix, etc.
I'm not thrilled about sending it to Temple, Texas. Besides, what are the chances Acer will do the right thing and fix it?
Has anyone seen this kind of damage?
whether it's mostly cosmetic? I'm assuming the plastic shell doesn't actually do much, and that there's a metal hinge underneath that does most of the real work, but I can't tell for sure and have never taken apart a laptop.
1-a 13" MacBook Pro, primary use will be Internet and e-mail and manipulating music files. Will my husband really notice a difference/benefit between the basic 2.26 and the 2.53GHZ (and is it worth about $250 more)? If he uses it for video downloading will that make a difference?
2- a 15" MacBook Pro- here I'm debating between the 2.66 and 2.8. My daughter uses it for Office apps, PhotoShop, music, Internet and e-mail. Again, would video downloading make a difference?
my 1640 has a bit of a loose left hinge. I've read that a few others have had this problem as well. It's more of an aesthetic thing than functional, but it's worn on me, and I want to know if it's something I should be concerned about.
So, I set about contacting Dell via email. Turns out, my hardware support warranty has expired. Now, this is interesting, because I ordered it on 3/22/09, and received it 4/2/09. I have 353 days left of next-day business service, and 353 days of Premium XPS Technical Support (if that's what the P stands for on the warranty status).
I can't figure out how to contact this XPS Technical support...and, according to the website, I couldn't unless I ponied up some cash, anyway.
I purchased a fw235j notebook about two months ago and the circular hinge near the charge port popped out so that it sticking out very loose, preventing me from shutting my computer. I think it happened because of the tension of the charger plugged into it. Sort of hard to exlpain, but if you own this notebook you know what part I'm talking about. (And if you don't own it i would recommend against it just because of this serious design flaw lol).
Has this happened to anyone else with a fw235j? If so what did you do to fix it? I tried forcing the piece back in so that i could shut the comp but that isn't working. It looks like a little plastic piece might have snapped off but it's so small that I can't tell for sure. I imagine this could be a pretty common problem because of the way this piece was designed. I mean, mine broke after 2 months of normal use (no falls or anything).
anyway, my computer is still functioning fine-it can still charge, its shuts down and boots up fine. but because of that piece it won't shut which is more than just a little bit annoying.
In the forefront we can see the hinge, and in the background we can see the piece behind the hinge (PBTH) - I have no idea what to call it, so from now on it will refer to it as the PBTH. =)
Ok, the problem I've had - for years - is that the PBTH does not stay where it is supposed to stay.. the three plugs do not stay in their holes. This has caused the outer plastic part of the LCD cover to split when I close the lid.
After a few years of this, the bezel cracked on me... so I decide to get a new bezel, and I tried to fix the hinge problem.
I'm not sure what mechanism was used to keep those 3 prongs in their holes, but I was going to try contact cement (for a lack of better ideas) - if you have any other ideas, please let me know.
But now my problem is this:
Last night I glued the PBTH into place, put everything back together..tried close the lid - was met with major resistance - and the glue/PBTH bond broke.
I was at the Dell shop in Hong Kong the other day and had a close look at the XPS M1530, and frankly I was quite dissapointed by the loose/faulty hinge, as in part of the rotation is very loose, if you know what I mean.
What worries me is that Dell uses the same or similar hinge design on other models (Studio series, Inspiron 13), so just out of interest, who here already suffer from hinge issues with their XPS M1330/1530?
the hinge on the left side of my Vaio FW290 laptop just broke, and it's conveniently 1 month after my warranty ended - not that they would have covered it anyways, they probably would have called it physical damage and not under warranty. The hinge is completely seperate from the body and it just flops around, and that's not good considering it is where the power cord plugs into the laptop. I want to replace it, and I have no problem doing it myself, but I don't know exactly what part(s) to get.
I know this is a common problem with this model, so I was hoping someone else here has repaired theirs and could tell me what parts I need. I found a place that sells virtually every replacement part imaginable:[url]. I guessing that the part I need is one of these two:
HINGE LEFT: [url] LCD BKT LFT: [url] LCD HINGE COVER-LFT: [url]
I recently dropped my laptop from about a foot from the ground and the cylinder that connects the laptop to the lcd has cracked in 3 spots (1 major and two really tiny cracks) It seems as if the actual hinge to the lcd is still in good condition however. I have the extended warranty however I didn't buy the accidental damage protection. . The power button/cylinder had gotten dislodged a few months ago and i figure I can get these both fixed at the same time. . . Does anyone know how much sony would charge to fix/ know a way to get them to do the repairs for free?