Acer :: Aspire 5920 Making Strange Noises After Spill
Mar 22, 2009
A few weeks ago I spilled green tea (no milk or sugar) on the desk around my Acer Aspire 5920 laptop. The tea went into the back left quarter of the machine, mainly through the ventilation holes and the ports on the left side. I removed the battery, drained the liquid, and let the machine dry out thoroughly. Since then the machine has worked fine. However, it occasionally makes strange noises, especially on start up. It's a fizzing/popping noise, in short bursts, like static. It sounds as if it's coming from the loudspeaker.
does anyone know the machine well enough to diagnose the fault? Only the components in the back left quarter of the machine got wet. Could there still be water in there? Is the noise a sign of a serious problem? What can I do to fix it? As I said, the spill happened several weeks ago, and, apart from the noise, the machine works fine.
I've had this aspire 7720-6381 for about a week and a half now. I've been very satisfied, and have even been content with the mediocre laptop speakers it contains. I wasn't expecting much in that realm anyways.
The problem I have is that periodically the speakers will make an annoying clicking noise. It's pretty sucky. Even worse, after a time all sound will screw up and a deathly fuzzy roaring sound is all that is heard.
i cant really describe it, but the "tuba" on my 6920G makes some really nasty noises when i turn the volume up...
im not sure if this is normal or not, if the tubas just not able to handle the loud bass or something... could someone try it out and see if theirs makes weird noises as well?
I have 130W(model DA130PE1-00) dell orginal PSU and dell e6540.
When i plug in PSU into my notebook, then i turn it on, and after windows loads, it starting to make strange noise. after it warm up to 30 deegres of celsius, it stops making it
I have noticed that loudness of the noise is inversly proportional to load and temperature. When PSU is cold and notebook is idling - it makes the strange noise. When PSU cold and noteboot is under moderate load - it stops making it. When PSU is warm (about 30 deegres of celsius) and is idling - i need to PSU at front of my ear.
The noise seems to coming from AC connector's side (Where PSU have connector for AC cable). PSU doesn't make this noise when i put it off from notebook.
Why PSU does make such noise? Why it is inversly proportional to temperature and load ? This is dangerous to me and my notebook ?
Exactly it looks like:
1. I turn on my notebook under AC, the PSU is making "click sound" till it become warmer.
2. After that there is buzzing sound, that is not as loud as clicking (i have to put ear at front of my PSU), and the buzzing sound is inversly proportional to load of the PSU.
Whenever I'm viewing the smallest things, like images or even streaming on youtube. The far left fan goes into gear -- but it sounds like it's hitting a wire, making a loud and obnoxious grinding sound.
And recently my computer would go at 100% CPU Usage, requiring me to restart a couple of times until it became neutral.
I just purchased the Dell XPS 13 Ultrabook and I hear a lot of high-pitched noises coming from the keyboard, i think from the right side, but hard to tell. It is really noticable in a quite room, and isn't a solid tone, it has a super short pause in it every second or so, but overall very consistant. It isn't the fan, and when I use Fn F2 to disable wireless/bluetooth it gets a little quiter, and seems a little more constant in the tone. It also isn't the lighted keyboard, it still does it with that off. It also does it when using A/C or battery.
So it might be a combination of the harddrive and wireless and bluetooth, or maybe some other circuits, but it is very annoying. I've seem some others post online about this as well, and am hoping Dell has a way to correct this somehow, but I don't have a lot of hope that a software or firmware update can fix this.
Are others hearing this too? I know some people are more sensitive to these types of noices, but if you put your ear to the keyboard in a quite room, you will hear it. I can hear it when I am sitting up typing at the keyboard, I just put my ear to the keyboard to better tell where it is coming from to describe it.
I have problem with my DELL VOSTRO 3553. It makes strange sounds from time to time - (sounds like that - [URL] .... ). Whats going on, and how to solve the problem?
I just received a new XPS 1340. It's got the TS-H553A DVD burner drive. However, I think there might be a problem with it. It makes a weird scratching noise with most discs - almost like a power saw cutting through wood - and it rips CD audio at 1.5x.
I recently received this acer laptop as a gift. Right from the first time I started it I noticed issues with the sound. With any audio that played there were crackling noises.The crackling got worse and worse so I Decided to restart the laptop and then the sound stopped working altogether.I tried reinstalling the Realtek HD audio drivers that came with the laptop but that didn't work and I still got a "No Audio Output Device is Installed" message in the bottom corner.
I tried reinstalling the drivers AGAIN, and the sound worked. All seemed well until I woke up the next day with no sound yet again.I then tried downloading new drivers from the realtek website, even these drivers didn't work. The only solution to the problem seemed to be basically uninstalling and reinstalling the realtek drivers until they worked, and even then, the sound would still crackle horrendously.After getting fed up with this issue I tried to refresh windows, and even this didn't work.I have tried everything I can think of .....
how i just cant make CIR working. device manager has it and its workig properly but none of the programs wich handle this device couldnt recognise hardware (girder, winlirc...).
i also have 'USB Asus IR Rec+Remote Set' but no better luck. i just cant find hardware with girder
I have an ACER Aspire 5920 Intel Core Duo Processor T7300 3GB RAM 320GB Hard Drive 2GB DDR2
When I press the power button the power led comes on (screen doesnt) and goes straight off again, this is before the bios even loads, this would continue 5 or 6 times before the computer starts up completely. This happens whilst on AC Power and battery.
anyway when watching videos on youtube with people playing games on the same laptop i found out that my laptop is slower than the ones other poeple have? i already tried to clean it with those air bottles but my laptop is still slower than the ones on youtube is there anyway to make my laptop faste without overclocking it because i dont wanna loose my warranty. another question i have is because of changing hardware i read some hreads about changing cpus most people recommended a core 2 duo t9300 but would it be a bis increase in my cause? when looking on alternate i saw that they have a t9600 for the same price so i wondered whether i could use that one as welll even though it has a fsb of 1066 instead of my 800 that im using right now another one i saw was the p8600 (its said penryn-3m i dont know what that means) but it also has a fsb of 1066
another thing is changing the graphic card first i have a question where i can buy graphic cards for laptops and then i read in a thread that the highest i can get is a 9650m gs because i only have a mxm II slot in my pc but on notebookcheck.com it says that the 9650 needs a mxm III slot. and the i have a question whether i could could use one of the new graphic cards from the geforce gtx 2000 serie
and finaly i have the question what else i could change to make my pc faster like ram or hard drive or soo
I am using this machine over a year, its ok. I am working animation, compositing, sound design and music.So i want to make some changes on this pc.I need some recommendations, ideas about these:
1)I m using 2gb of ram and i want to max this to 4 gb. Is there any specific brand that you can say "good" and i also wonder how much mhz use max, recently i m using 667 and i want to buy what ddr2 offers max if there is no any adaptation issue.
2)I also need a 7200rpm harddisk. But i know nothing about laptop hdds. I m thinking for the best hdd as possible.But, i dont know what hdds are avalible for this Acer model, or is it not necessary something like that.
3) Finally, I ve created an Acer backup DVD, i wonder how easy to setup the computer if i change the hdd? I mean is it going to be licensed and free of problems like before.I used recovery once before, but with Empowering T software. Never did with a DVD.
I recently had a small flood in my basement. While my laptop didnt get wet the power adapter did. It stopped working as there was water dripping out of the adapter. I purchased a IGO adapter from Radio Shack. I tried it in the store on my laptop and it worked fine. I got it home and it was a different story. The unit kept turning itself on and off and i kept having to jiggle it to work. Finally I decided to return the adapter and buy another one. I purchased a 90 watt adapter from Best Buy. Now the machine doesnt do anything. Nothing happens, no blue light or anything.
So a year or two ago I bought an Acer Aspire 5920, it's always ran extremely hot (to the point that if I don't use an external fan it will skip movies and lag out everything). This will technically be the second laptop I've bought (the first had the same problem so I exchanged it for this one). I sent it in to Acer twice and it's come back the same way both times, with them saying there is nothing wrong with it. I now have to use a laptop stand with a desk fan behind it (and it STILL gets too hot). I have tried cleaning out the inside, reapplying the liquid silver (or whatever it's called) to the processors and heatsink bar, and even cleaned and oiled the fan. Is there anything that can be done about it?
I recently replaced the T5550 cpu in my Aspire 5920 with a T9500 (SLAYX). I bought the T9500 on E-bay as new, SLAYX, installed it and it works fine. Two different programs (CPU-Z and PC Wizard 2008 identify this processor as a T9500 (ES). The cpu had the SLAYX marking on the top. Is it possible I bought an engineering sample cleverly disguised as SLAYX?
I've been puzzled about the inclusion of an IR Receiver on my laptop for quite some while now - and recently, I've found out it's apparently CIR, which makes me able to use a remote with my laptop. I only want to do basic functions with this (inc/dec volume, pause playing videos, skip tracks on iTunes or Winamp...) - will any standard remote do the job?
I found this one - [url] - can anyone advise whether that would be ok, or whether there's an official Acer remote I should be using?
I've conected two mini dv camcorders (Sony HC-37E & JVC GR-D70EK) to my brand new Acer Aspire 5920, via firewire, & none of them are 'seen' by vista home premium and therefore don't work.
Both cam's work on an Acer desktop running vista home basic.
One thing I have noticed is that the firewire reported on the desktop is Texas instruments (whereas the laptop reports RICOH).
When I start-up or resume from sleep my AAO often makes an extremely loud noise like the fan is trying to run but is having trouble. It almost sounds like it is revving up. It will do it two or three times then stop. It usually doesn't do it during normal use--only when I'm trying to start-up or resume.
i recently bought the notebook, after a month it was fine nothing went wrong, then in the pass couple weeks i've notice that a "crackling" sound comes on when i play music, this also happens when my headphones are plugged in. Strangely enough the crackling sound only happens when my charger is unplug, when i put the charger in, the crackling sound stops. Is there a way to fix this?
I had left the Acer plugged into the power socket in the wall. There was a power problem in our building and the electricity went and came back about 4-5 times over a span of 30 mins. This has happened before so I paid no attention to it. However, after the electricity supply stabilized, I casually looked to see that the charging lights on the Acer was not on. I unplugged the machine from the wall and tried to start it up - nothing happened. I took out the battery waited for a few minutes, put it back in and tried to start it up - again, nothing happened. I took out the battery and plugged the machine into the power socket in the wall and tried to start it up - again, nothing happened. As it stands, the Acer is dead.
The specs are T6660 (I am not quite sure about this but its something close), 2GB RAM, 250 GB HDD, Vista Home, integrated graphics (X3100).
One other point. You know the power brick from Acer has a green light on it which comes on when you have it plugged into the power socket on the wall. When I attached the power chord to the machine, the green light becomes dim and flickers. However, when I disconnect it from the machine, but keep it plugged into the power source on the wall, the light is on as it should be.
I also purchased the 5920 from Wal-Mart about 6 months ago. About 2 months ago my 160Gig HDD just failed on me and I had to send it to Texas to have it repaired. What I need to know is this: I just bought Assasin's Creed and my not-so brand new lappy wont play it. It loads through the intro and then fails. I realize that my CPU is 1.66Ghz and the requirements for the game is 1.9 or better. Still, I thought I might get lucky. Stupid me. So, I've been reading these forums and upgrading my CPU from my T5450( 1.6)to the T8300 (2.4). Now I also have 3GB DDR2 Ram installed and want to move to 4, so do I need to buy new ram that runs at 800mhz to reflect the changes I've made to my cpu? Or should I just take out a 1GB ram and put in a 2GB of the same kind already in it? It's the Samsung DDR SDRam 1x1 and 1x2.
Aspire 5920. When I purchased it from a chain electronics store, I did not receive any OS CD/DVD or any other disks with it. Now it got to the point where it had slowed down to a crawl, I went to do a system restore (Vista Home Premium) to the earliest point which was set on 24 Aug 09, and I when it went to reboot itself it is now stuck on Start Windows Normally and if I select it, it just cycles back to Start Windows Normally after about 15 seconds. I've been doing that for the past two hours. I've hit F5 to get to a screen that allows me to choose F8 and get to safe mode and other selections and all of them take me back to Start Windows Normally and the endless cycle from hell. Of course I have no CD to boot from, so I have no choices at this point. The extremely curious thing is that I know another couple of people who bought the exact same model from the same retailer and none of them got disks. The retailer apparently told one of them that Acer doesn't ship OS disks with this model. I find that hard to believe.
I've been having trouble deciding on whether I should upgrade my 5920's processor/ram and if it was worth it.
I play games moderately and I just need it to perform to my standards, so far in testing this laptop it doesn't hold up too well in FPS in the games I play (Counter-Strike: Source, Warhammer, etc).
I was wondering, if upgrading my processor from the T7300 to the P8600 or maybe even the P9500 would help at all in the performance increase.
In CSS, the computer itself gets 230 FPS on the video stress test. In the real time gameplay it holds up to it, but it's just that it isn't perfect and is sometimes skippy and I will get random chops every few minutes or so. I concluded that most of it was due to the heat and possibly due to the slower processor and amount of ram I have (I have 2GB).
If I can't get this laptop working up to par I'm going to have to invest in another one, as I plan on having a laptop that I can use for school and at home on external monitor and accessories without it being the 20 pound 17" gaming laptop.
Another thing is, will using the P series of processor lower my overall laptop heat and power consumption since they are 25W compared to the T7300's 35W?
I recently had some trouble with my Acer Aspire 5920 notebook. A virus got through to it (luckily without any major damage).
I sent the notebook repairs and I already got it back and working...almost...completely as new.
I wanted to format the notebook and reinstall the necessary programs. This way I can get rid of all the stuff I don't need/want.
The problem is that eRecovery from the eEmpowerment tools needs a password to start the formatting. Normally if you don't fill in a password in the first place then there's no password needed when you want to format the system.
In my case, the notebook asks for the password anyway so my question is this:
How can I format my notebook (using eRecovery or another application) without the password?
