How long it takes to Apple to relase updated version of new unibody macbook 13
Looking for new laptop. This new Mac is perfect for my needs but after playing a bit with it display its a dealbreaker . There is Pro but it seams a bit to pricy.My hopes ar that they would place a better quality display in future models. Likely to happen?
I just wanted to say that, I purchased a Macbook and iWork 09 and loving it! The laptop is amazing, it just works...
I've previously had a windows laptop which gave a lot of trouble and got sick and tired of windows. So I decided to take the plunge and I'm glad I did. I'm still trying to learn how to use and get around leopard.
I was thinking about upgrading my new Macbook Aluminum to 3gb of RAM. My Macbook is currently running with the stock 2gb configuration. The plan is to swap out one of the 1gb SODIMM for a new Crucial 2gb DDR3 SODIMM. Are there any downsides to running two different brands/different sized SODIMMs?
I hear a lot of negative about the screen. does anyone actually like the screen? Looking to buy one, but will skip if the screen is as bad as people say.
Does the Aluminum macbook have optical out? Would the Aluminum macbook be horrible for any type of audio recording/playback. Such as djing, because of the lack of firewire?
I just have a brief question regarding upgrading RAM on my Macbook. I have an Aluminum Macbook which I purchased at the beginning of the year. It has a 2.4 GHz processor, 2 GB DDR3 memory, 250GB HDD, and the 9400M graphics.
My question is:
1) Does upgrading from 2 to 4 make any significant difference in terms of photoshop and basic gaming? Would these differences also apply to regular use?
2) The memory speed is DDR3 1066 MHz. Does upgrading to a faster memory, for example, DDR3 1333 MHz make any difference? Or is the speed limited to 1066MHz, no matter how much faster the upgraded memory is?
I guess I'm rough on laptops because this one is starting to wear out and I haven't had it a year. How does the aluminum unibody hold up to heavy usage? I'm specifically looking at keyboard(I type fast and hard), mouse, and cd drive. Well, I guess I might be a little rough in handling too. I really like the construction if the new macbook pros and would love to get the new 17".
In OS X my MacBook is very, very quiet. You can't hear anything at all, at least compared to my Inspiron 6400s. I haven't heard the fan kick in yet while in OS X. Now, in boot camp, there's another story. I almost always hear the fan! What's up with that?! It frightens me knowing that the notebook is working extremely hard while just idling in XP, I'm afraid to play 3D games for too long, even though there's no lagging or fps drops or anything.
So here's the question. I'm certain that too much heat is a bad thing, but where the heck are the vents? On my Dells they're clearly on the back. On the MacBook i see absolutely no exit points for heat. This scares me.
how I could use Windows 7 on my MB, without fully dedicating it to a partition on my HDD, because I already have Windows XP Pro as my Boot Camp. I mainly just want to test it out, without installing it completely.
I'm experiencing an odd restart issue with my Aluminum Macbook (see sig for specs). It is an occasional issue, happening maybe once every week or two.
Basically, it goes like this. I restart my machine for whatever reason, and as it reboots I get the apple (indicating a boot-up). Instead of booting up in 30 seconds as usual, the apple just sits on the screen for a while and then finally turns to an X. This continues each time I reboot. The only fix, I have found is to disconnect the power and remove the battery for thirty seconds. Then everything reboots as normal.
This has happened to me several times, the same scenario.
Does anyone have a hint for me on what might be happening?
I HEAR alot of people say Aluminum is more sturdy...
I HEAR alot of people say Aluminum Warps easier and Polycarbonate is better..
Iv'e read Articles such as [url]
And Yet alot of forums iv'e read Say just the opposite...
Iv'e read a bit about Aluminum macbooks having warping issues?
Iv'e read just as much about the plastic ones having cracking (Polycarbonate is supposed to be near unbreakable?)
One of the biggest reasons I am looking at a macbook is the build quality rumored around it. Which Factually is a better build? The White Polycarbonate Macbook or the Aluminum Macbook? I don't mind paying the extra $$ if the Aluminum is Factually a better build.
I got the new aluminum macbook 2.4ghz and it is taking a long time to go to sleep. I cant figure out what it is. I close my lid and the apple logo takes about 4 seconds until is shuts off and another 30 seconds until the light starts to fade in and out. I've shut the lid of another macbook at an apple shop and they go to sleep instantly.
"how to upgrade the HDD" thread, so now I'll make a guide on how to upgrade RAM in the Aluminum MB and MBP's. Upgrading of the RAM is a bit more difficult, therefore it might be more helpful. You will be needing a Phillips 000 screwdriver, PC-8500 DDR3 1066MHz RAM, up to 4GB. I have yet to upgrade this yet, just waiting on the RAM from Newegg. So here is a step-by-step guide on how to replace you RAM in your Uni-body MB and MBP.
Step 1: You are going to turn your computer completely off to replace RAM.
Step 2: Make sure you have data backed up, just to be on the safe side. You don't want a bad ram module to lose some of your data. Some people don't do a backup before a ram upgrade, but I do.
Step 3: You are then going to flip the notebook over. Be sure to have a cloth or towel on the surface you're laying to notebook on, to prevent any scratches.
Step 4: No you are going to flip up the tab, just as you would do in changing the battery or HDD. After the tab has been flipped up, take the back battery cover off. The battery and HDD will be exposed at this point. Take the battery out.
Step 5: Now you are going to unscrew the 8 screws around the frame of the computer. There will be 4 short screws, 1 medium length screw, and 3 longer screws. Make sure you have a cup or dish of some-sort, so you don't loose your screws or get them mixed up...........
I was thinking about replacing my HDD on my aluminum Macbook recently, and I thought it might be interesting to make a guide for all of those that have an alu-MB or MBP and would like to replace the HDD. You are going to need a 2.5inch laptop HDD, in the SATA format. I haven't upgraded it yet, but I'll show you a step by step process on how to replace it.
Step 1: To replace a HDD, you need to turn the computer completely off.
Step 2: Make sure that you have your data backed up to an external HDD, via Time Machine or Carbon Copy Cloner.
Step 3: You are then going to flip the notebook over. Be sure to have a cloth or towel on the surface you're laying to notebook on, to prevent any scratches.
Step 4: Now, you are going to flip the tab up that is near the bottom of the notebook. That will release the battery/HDD cover.
Step 5: Now that the cover is off, you are now going to unscrew the HDD screw. There is only one screw that you have to remove to replace the HDD.
Step 6: You then want to pull on the clear tab, to get the old HDD out of the notebook. Be careful not to damage the SATA connector pins while taking it out. Safely disconnect the HDD from the connectors. Then you will need to take out the 4 screws on the original HDD caddy, and transfer them to the new HDD, as they will help reduce movements and vibration, keeping the HDD firmly in place. For that job you will need a T6 Torx screwdriver (star-shaped)-Credits to Underpantman and ClearSkies..............
I finally got rid of my 3 batteries BT apple keyboard, which I enjoyed using when it worked, but it was so unreliable. It would drain batteries fast, go out of sync, take forever to come back from sleep. Apple replaced it once.
Now I was wondering if the new one with 2 batteries is any better. I am very skeptic, to say the least to purchase this new one, there are complaints all over the place Apple - Support - Discussions - Apple Wireless Keyboard Eating Batteries ... and not only about the battery drain but also connectivity. I am having second thoughts about BT reliability in general.
What's your experience with this new keyboard? if there a similar keyboard by another manufacturer? I need something with keys that require very little pressure since I have tendinitis.
My battery is at roughly 50% charge and I only have 7 cycles through it, yet I get a (Not Charging) message when I plug it in to the wall.
I've tried a few other bricks that other people own, all of which work to charge their MBP13s, but it doesn't work on mine. I even tried booting to Win7 and it still doesn't charge.
I tried shutting down then holding the power button for a long time, but didn't work.
I tried shutting down then holding shift-control-alt and hitting the power button once, then waiting 5 seconds before turning it on and that didn't work either.
I've had my MBP since 1 week now, and I've been using it a lot. At first, the startup time was around 35 seconds, but recently I have noticed that the blue screen at the end of the startup process is staying for much longer than it should (around 8 seconds).
I have tried:
-Repairing Disk with the Disk Utility and the Leopard DVD -Repairing Permissions -Defragmenting (3rd party software) -Deleting the ApplicationEnhancement.bundle file using [command-S] -Deleting preference files of uninstalled programs.
But nothing worked. The blue screen still lasts 8 seconds and the pointer appears at the top left corner. The startup time is now 50 seconds, which is about the same as Windows and I don't want that.
1.I really didn't find much info on the (now not so) new white unibody Macbooks, expect some items for sale. And please, don't tell me that just buy the aluminum model for the extra $200, my question is strictly from an engineering point of view: heat. We all know aluminum Macbooks are quite hot, right? But how does the white unibody compares to the aluminum regarding heat issues?
2.What might be the reason that the whole bottom of the white unibody contcts the table beneath it, compared to the aluminum model, which has four rubber contact points on the four corners?
3.On the other thread I read a dedicated graphics card does not really add to battery consumption. Can you confirm that?
My main usage profile is office, web and seeing (HD, if available) Youtube videos. This one is rather a 15" vs. 13" Pro question, and half hypothetic. Let's say, all things are being equal on two models, the processor none the least, the only differences are one model has the integrated Nvidia, the other the integrated Intel plus discreet Nvidia combo, which one would serve me better, regarding performance and battery life? The discreet graphics would at least turn on when playing the HD videos?
4.Running native Windows (7 or XP) still suck on Macbooks, because of the drivers?
the new dell studio 15 has a option fora 900p screen. this prob means a 1440x 900 screen but it just doesn't make any sense calling it 900p. it even confused me..
Please update to the revision immediately and post your results here. It seems importance is rated as Recommended and not urgent, so I'm not sure whether or not the system downclock and fan issues have been fixed, which is quite an urgent matter.
If someone could get a log file of the changes from Dell that would be great.
Update: Thanks Weegie:
Fixes/Enhancements ------------------ 1. Added support for BIOS that is signed. 2. Updated to PSA build 4117. 3. Updated thermal table. 4. Fixed the issue where system is slow to boot to internal hard drive after failed PXE boot exits. 5. Fixed the issue where Some BIOS Setup parameters are not accessible with only the keyboard. 6. Fixed the issue where system will automatically shut down at resuming from S3. 7. Fixed the issue where the time of BIOS power event log in Setup is wrong for power button event. 8. Fixed the issue where presentation mode cannot be turned on/off from the DCP.
These things look sOoOoOoO important .
During the flash, the only thing that appeared was "Updating Keyboard Controller ROM", but I don't know if that's regular or not. I will be gaming with this new revision and posting results soon.
All in all, nothing to see here. Seems like Dell either a) does not read our threads, or b) does not care. Nothing to see here .
I have a final revision pre-configured VGN-SZ780DN (Canadian model Made in Japan). It comes with Vista Business 32bit RTM (not even SP1). I was shocked this morning to check on the eSupport Canada website and find out that my model is not supported by Sony for a Windows 7 upgrade!?! I mean, I thought the earlier SZ models probably wouldn't but I figured that for sure the final line of SZs would be as they are pretty recent, as I only brought mine on clearence for a real good price this year in March for $1100 CDN.
So, if I get Windows 7, I just want to make sure that everything works 100% and I will do the simplest straightest upgrade possible. Windows Vista Business RTM 32bit upgraded to Windows 7 Professional 32bit.
I already have my computer flashed with the latest BIOS and Bluetooth firmware from the eSupport site. Now, if I reformat my computer to ensure that it is all clean with the Sony recovery, remove crap like Norton 360, Google toolbar, Spybot Search and Destroy, install ALL the latest driver and software updates from the eSupport site for Vista then upgrade to Windows 7 Pro 32bit, how will things be?