I currently have a Macbook Pro, from the mid 2007 batch. The frame around the screen started with a hairline crack at the base of the screen on both sides about a year ago and since has developed into full blown crack on both sides. It seems that the rest of the screen is fine, so I don't want to buy a new one. Does anyone have any knowledge about replacing the bezel (not sure what to call it?) around the screen?
I've a problem w/ my Macbook pro 15" Late 2008. I found some crack on my screen.
1. On last Friday. After I went back to my home. I had open my laptop. At first, I had find some scratch on my laptop screen. It's on the bottom right corner of my screen. Then I use my finger w/ a little cloth to clean it. But it became to a little crack on my glass screen. Then I saw something just like a little dent. - I always keep my Macbook pro in to a hardcase( AXIO - Black Hardcase, the one I got it from applestore), then carrying it w/my laptop bag with carefully.
2. Then on Saturday, I went to apple service (retial shop, I had buy my laptop) to claim about a problem on my laptop screen. They took a photo from my laptop and send it to apple. I said that this is not an accident and they agreed that. On my laptop, There is no any scratch outside or beside the point I 've find a crack. They ask me to wait till they get an information from apple service.
3. Today, I 've got an information from apple. They tell that I can't claim what happen on my laptop. Apple does not allow to claim for a problem like this under warranty.But my laptop is not have an any accident cause... They tell me...If I have any problem, I can ask their SPS - Supporting produce service staff for this, they refuse it. Or else waiting to talk to their customer relationship service staff tomorrow....
I bought mine in 2007, thinking I might give it a couple upgrades, since I'm going to be opening it up to clean out its insides and re-do the thermal paste.
I need help upgrading the hard drive. This is my first time upgrading anything, and I need things made specific before proceeding.
The manual says any 2.5 inch SATA would do. I see on newegg that there are 1.5gb/s, and 3.0gb/s variants. Does SATA mean it'll support either? And are there any limits to RPM?
Ram is super expensive nowadays. Just when I was buying the notebook, 4 gb sets would cost $50, now it's double that. Anyway, it makes me want to buy a cheapass laptop around $400 just to take out the bigger hard drive and the ram.
I would like to thank The realfireblade for answering my post in a different forum. It has been impossible for me to answer him directly. The dell forum refuses my password.
I worked on that all day today, changing my account three or four times. I thought I had finally managed to create a new one that worked, but no, when I tried to answer Therealfireblade, the forum refused my password. I am not stupid, I had written the right password.
I have spent three days now trying to get in touch with somebody at Dell's to know where I can have my little laptop repaired. It is awful
I had a little mishap, my MB (1.83GHz) fell down and it got a hit on the upper left corner of the LCD. Immediately it got purple stripes showing in the browser window's gray fields, and when I tried looking at some pictures, they had lots of bright green fields.
In the time since then, I have not got to doing anything about it, but a few days ago, it changed, the display suddenly looked perfect. This prompted me to think that the LCD is not shot anyway, that most likely some connection in there has got loose. Seconds ago I again had a few purple stripes showing, but then I grabbed the LCD, with my thumbs on the inside frame and fingers on the outside, carefully pressing a little, which caused it to become perfect again.
Somehow I wonder if the problem is that the "frame" around the display isn't properly set in place. Just after it happened, it did look as if it had come loose, but I pressed it slightly and it looked as if it had popped back in place. When I now had to press a little, it did make a little noise... Could the problem be this simple, or...
I recently had an HDX16 and tried out a DM3, but ended up returning the DM3 because I simply wanted a bigger and more powerful setup. Well, I had gone through 3 previous HDX16s because of various issues. Now I get one of the last ones they made (I got it about a week ago but was out of town for Thanksgiving.) Anyways, there's a huge crack in the plastic on the long roundish bar that connects the screen to the laptop. I don't know what to do. I can call, but they can't even send out another replacement, as the 16 doesn't exist anymore. To me the DV6/7/8 series isn't even comparable in my mind. What does everyone think I should do? I get the feeling they'll offer me say $50 which isn't worth the crack. I mean to me $200 is about where I'd say I'd be okay. But even then, I'll use it every day and think of the crack.....
saying that the screen of the macbook is really bad, with no specifics of why it is bad. I was just wondering if its just the viewing angles that everyone is complaining about? or is it something else?
Is there a lot of backlit bleeding on the new Macbook PRO 13"? My 13" unibody Macbook has horrible backlit bleeding. We are looking for a second computer and want to go with this notebook (Macbook PRO 13") as we love our current Macbook unibody, except for the screen which has bad backlit bleeding. Are the new screens much better? I can't find any informationpictures comparing both...
I was incidentally looking for some calibration tips for my Unibody Macbook Pro (late 2008) and I figured, why not set up a thread in which we can actually share our calibration profiles...
I've got the 9C84 which is the LG/Philips LP154WP3-TLA1 as far as Google says.
You can check your display manufacturer in System Preferences click Displays, go to Color tab and "Open Profile". In this list scroll down to number 17 which is "Apple display make and model information".
This is what Google says: 9C84 = LG/Philips LP154WP3-TLA1 (15" MacBook Pro) 9C85 = Chi Mei N154C6-L04 (15" MacBook Pro) 9C89 = LG/Philips LP133WX2 (MacBook UniBody)
Don't know about the Air, sorry.
There are quite a few people sharing their calibrations on Macrumors and other forums, I've tried some of them and frankly, they're either too blue or too bright...........
my white 13.3 inch macbook has developed like a flickering problem, its a good few years old, max memory on this one is only 2gb's. well anyways, the screen, it has only done it intermittently but when opening it for wake up, or when the screen dims, it ocassionaly does like a flicker thing, but only for a few seconds, then it stops. my guess, its the screen invertor.
i was working on my thesis in a completely dark room and realized that the screen on my macbook pro flickers even if the background is completely white. this annoyed me to no end since i have sensitive eyes, so i set out looking for a temporary fix before i try and get apple to replace my panel. anyhow, luck has it that there is a fix out there that at least temporarily stops the flicker (i havent seen it posted on nbr before, and my apologies if this is old news): press ctrl-shift-eject to reset the screen. once it goes blank, hit any key and your display should be good to go. worked for me and my screen has been flicker-free for ~30 minutes.
I remember someone talking about the screen quality of the unibody MB being < that of the MBA. Just wondering if anyone can tell me whether that is true? I found it very hard to differentiate at a store.
I'm curious about the screen they are putting in the new 17 inch MacBook Pro. It says "The 1920-by-1200-pixel resolution (133 pixels per inch) means you can view more palettes and windows or watch HD video in its native 1920-by-1080 resolution. Perfect whether you’re working in the studio or out in the field, the display offers a 60 percent greater color gamut than previous generations for richer, more vibrant colors and a 700:1 contrast ratio that makes whites brighter and blacks blacker." Does this mean that they are using real 8 bit displays? I kind of doubt it since that don't mention the infamous "millions of colors". How are they getting a high quality screen in a such a small compartment? The screen on the Sony AW is easily a half inch thick on it own. I can't wait to see the difference in person.
To me the screen is the most important aspect of a notebook followed by weight. I'm not a fan of Apple's politics, but this new MBP has me intrigued.
I've read about marks being left on the screen when closing the lid of Macbooks but I didn't expect it to happen on my Macbook Pro (late 2007 model) because the keyboard keys are slightly recessed and rounded.
Well, technically the problem didn't arise from the keys but rather that sharp edge just below the spacebar and above the trackpad. What I have now is a thin line that's about 1" to 2" across. It makes the screen look slightly faded in that area. I figured that it came from that spot below the spacebar after placing a sticky note just below it and observing where it touches once the lid closes.
I guess it's not a terrible problem but it is kind of annoying. It especially annoys me to think that I might get a little less when re-selling the computer because of it
Just wanted to let those of you who use the same computer know. It'd be good to place a cloth or something over that area when shutting the lid and transporting the computer. I'm guessing it must have been slightly squeezed in that area of the screen at one point or another while the lid was closed.
I need to replace the broken screen on my late 2006 Black Macbook. The thing is I do not know which screen to buy. It would appear that the Macbook was sold with various different screens.
I was just wondering which one was the best? I heard that the Samsung one was terrible. I think the others were LG Philips and AUO, there could have been others Im not sure. As I am replacing it I want to get the best one.
I've got a late 07 macbook pro with those faulty 8600 nvidia gpus. My macbook pro was working fine last night and now this afternoon its got a blank screen upon startup. I can still hear the chime and it still boots into the OS as i can still change the volume and backlit brightness etc.... Is it confirmed to say that my luck has ran out and the GPU is dead?
My warranty has expired and have no extended applecare + I bought the macbook in one of those education apple store. Will I still be able to get the free repairs as stated by apple and even if I do, won't they still replace the logic board with another unused faulty one and down the track my macbook pro will still be prone to that same failure?