I would like to bring this to attention for the community, as it recently happened to my SXPS1647. This happens with the 90w brick and only on certain firmwares. The proc in my system is the core i7 620m.
One night just before bed i closed the lid on my laptop to put it to sleep and then turned off the TV, but then i heard a strange high pitched sound coming from the laptop area. I went back and investigated and there was a strange sound coming from the power brick. The best way I can describe it is the sound of electricity moving, a wave like sound that gets higher and lower pitched. Very concerning, so I call Dell and tell them the problem they send a new motherboard and ac adapter.
The dell tech comes to my house and says that's the strangest thing he has ever seen/heard. So he tries the new ac adapter and same sound so he replaces the mobo. With the new mobo the sound is not present, so im happy. But the computer was throttling really bad so i decided to check the bios with CPUZ and it was A01. I decide to update the bios to get rid of the throttling issues, A05 update went nicely but as soon as I restart the system the magic high pitch sound has returned. The previous mobo had the A04 bios when it was making the sound.
I recently read the whole 90w vs 130w ac adapter and wonder if that has anything to do with this issue?
If your battery is mostly drained and you plug the thing in, within minutes the brick gets so hot that I'm afraid to let it sit on any surface, much less touch it.
I thought it might just be a defective piece so I got a replacement power adapter and it gets just as hot as the other one. Has anyone else noticed this?
So I'm about to get my XPS 1647 today. I don't plan on gaming too much, so I don't know if I'll hit these throttling issues, but..
How do I know if my system is throttling or if its just running as fast as it can? Does the 90W power brick heat up? Is there some system monitor I can check?
Well many people seem to suffer from the dreaded brick Failure, I have had a few go crap, and many of those failures usually were traced back to a broken wire in the DC cable assemly. If you wiggle the cable in the area if the strain relief you can usually hear the crackling sound.
I usually find it breaks in the strain relief - See attached Picture.
Fixing this can be easily done with a few items, there are a few little challanges as well.
1. Soldering Iron & Solder 2. Solder Sucker (removing tool) or Solder Wick 3. Wire Cutters 4. pliers, Small Screw drivers 5. Volt Meter (DVM) 6. Electrical tape
If you see Picture 1 of the plug, I just wanted to point out the typical barrel type connector used in the Dell laptops 6000/6400/9400/M1710 Etc.
There are 3 wires to connect here, The Out side Barrel is the Negative supply, The inside Barrel is Postive, and the inside Tip is a Voltage Sense.
I have added some new Pictures to show the inside of the PA-13 brick.
You can see the three connectoins on the bottom side of the board. The spacing is tight, and you can easily solder across two pads, checking for solder bridges is important
Please note, the spaces are small, and you require good eyes, a magnifying glass would help, and some soldering skills.
After your soldered the new connections careful inspection to check for any solder bridges is required.....
The power supply they sent is not only the wrong wattage rating, it also won't even FIT into my laptop's power input.
I emailed them, and they won't even replace the thing.
"I reviewed your order details and I see that 65 Watt power supply is listed on your order details therefore we are unable to send you the 90 Watt power supply as per
Dell's Exchange guidelines, an exchange could be done for like to like items only."
Just got one of these, and the power brick is well erm.. a brick!
I need / want to get a third party one that is hopefully smaller, so does anyone know of one suitable? or, if not.. know of what i should be looking at to try and find one?
Is it normal for the power brick to get hot? When I say hot I mean, it's so hot I'm afraid to leave it plugged in and go anywhere. I just got my system the other day but really haven't messed with it so far (except for making sure everything was up to par.) Today I started getting into everything, clean install, etc and I noticed like after 10 minutes of it being plugged in (120 watt brick) the brick was so hot it felt like my heating pad on high. I've never experienced this before, is this normal?
I have a Dell Studio 1558 and I have some concern about my power brick. The brick itself makes a light sizzling, buzzing or light crunchy noise which isn't continuous, but is causing me concern. The computer itself, also makes a similar noise when doing stuff like scrolling down a page in an internet browser. Every time I press the down arrow and it loads new images, it makes a brief sizzling noise.
When my computer was brand new I brought this up with tech-support and they gave me a new power brick but the noise never went away. I took a day off work to stay at home and waited for a tech to come to my house so I haven't complained about it since then. It seems to be an intermittent issue, some days its worse than others, and I've had this computer for about 2-3 years now.
Have there been any recalls on the power supplies for my computer? Aside from making a noise, I haven't noticed any decline in my computers performance, I'm just worried about it shocking me or frying some of the components inside the computer!
my power brick making a clicking noise and the LED light sort of flickering in conjunction with the noise. Does anyone else have this issue? I'm not sure it's a problem, but I'm worried that it might be.
I have been looking online and getting mixed results regarding buzzing noises from ac power adapters. My old hp dv6000 laptop powerbrick did not make buzzing noises as loud as my new dv6-1235cl from costco.
I noticed that a lot of people now hear buzzing noises from their ac adapter. Then I came onto this website.
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Is this a bunch of bs or are they for real?
I can hear the buzzing noise when I put my ac adapter on the table, but almost non existent when its on the ground. I want to know if this will be a fire safety hazard in the future? I dont want my house burning down even when this thing is plugged in.
guys, can I use the new 210watt power brick with the M6300? and does it weigh less, or is there an after market solution outthere?
I still occasionally use an old 90watt brick but just for short times as it gets hotter than hell.
I'm trying to cut down travel weight, hence the new brick.
Looking ahead I think my next laptop would be something like the M4500 (dropping down a size for mobility) or something from HP. I don't game on laptop anymore, well nothing more than old titles, so just need fast CPU and good screen and something better than integrated.
my HDD, when idle, makes access noises every 2 or 3 seconds. The noise sounds like normal HD access noise (like a watch tick), but in a quiet room it can be very annoying after a while. If it was not for the fact that the HDD light does not light up when the noise occurs, I would assume something was accessing the HDD every few seconds or so.
If I used HDPARM, I can kinda stop the noise by setting the drive to 254. TO be honest though, I'm not really sure what this is doing.
The issue is really annoying as a) everyone just says drive failure, but I don't think it is, and b) it seems to be HUGELY common. Some people say it is headparking, but why would a system park heads every 2 seconds?
Has anyone had this issue fixed by having their HD replaced? I cannot stress enough that the "ticking" is not loud and, unless you were in a quiet room you would never notice. It sounds exactly like access sounds, but just every couple of seconds.
I just updated my laptop to bios A09 and it froze part the way through the update, needless to say the worst happened and the laptop no longer powers up ,
after some googling i have found others who have had this problem and have also bricked there laptops.
Please beware when or if you use this update as it could happen to you. The good news is Dell are picking it up tomorrow and are replacing the motherboard under warranty
Looks like my original 90W gave up the ghost. Lucky I have access to a couple in the meantime, but need to get a new one, prob off ebay. (not looked yet)
Any reason or benefit from say 130w - 150w Bricks?
I bought this laptop to ease my sense of dispair when im away from my pc - however it seems to crash about once a month and then stop working for a while... like a week and eventually it just recovers completely for another month? im guessing it has something to do with built up static or something? im not big on laptops.. a lot of the time it seems fine but then when i open up WoW it crashes up again
also if i have it closed while listening to music or something it constantly makes this "dudu" noise as though theres some important notification but nothing on screen and it makes it like every 15 seconds but just randomly...
I have a Dell Latitude D800 that will not power on. When the power button is pushed the green power indicator light comes on, the CDROM spins for a moment, but then nothing happens, there is no BIOS information displayed, no power on self test, no Dell logo. It just sits there with the green power light on.I have tried removing the power & battery then pressing the power button for 10 seconds (actually, I have tried as long as 60 seconds). I have tried to turn on with the power connected but not the battery. I have tried removing the connector cable for the power button and the connector cable for the display and then reseating them.
I have a Dell Inspiron N5010 laptop, the power light (light on the power button) and the left front LED white light blinks every 5 seconds. It doesn't power on at all.
Our Studio 1749 will retain a solid connection when the power adapter is plugged into the power board along the side of my laptop. I am unsure if the pins residing in the power board are pushed toward each other so as to not retain connection when the adpater in plugged into the laptop.
When I pull the power cord to switch to battery power while in Windows my lcd goes to black. The only way I get my video back is a hard reset and reboot. Later on I tried this and everything was back to normal. Why is this happening? Is this some weird standby?
I have just installed an i7 2670Qm on my T420 today.The machine will crash pretty soon after booting up, with the screen having colorful vertical and horizontal lines before it restarts itself and give the memory error beeping pattern (1 beep-pause-3 beeps-3 beeps-pause-1 beep).So then I took out one RAM from the bottom, and the machine appears to work normally again, more or less.
In the OS (Win7 64), The power manager alerts me that the 65w AC adapter is giving not enough power, so the laptop is running on battery. I thought I just need a 90W AC brick so the laptop will work as it should, so I am arranging a 90w one to come in later. But on a second thought, if the battery cannot start the laptop with 8GB of RAM properly.
Is it the CPU or RAM or Mobo or something else? Where should I look?The machine works fine with the previous CPU i3-2310m and 8GB of RAM.The RAM modules I have are 2 x 4GB Samsung 2Rx8 PC3-12800S-11-11-F3.The BIOS version is updated to the latest 1.46.
I enjoy the feature of automatically powering off the optical drive in power manager. My issue is after reformatting my T530 the option is there until I do an update using the Lenovo ThinkVantage System Update. One of the updates seems to remove the feature from the power manager.
After replacing the fan, I have a power up issue with the laptop. Basically, the laptop will only power on with the power cable disconnected at the motherboard. It was by mistake that after the fan was replaced and everything was put back together, that I noticed that the battery was not charging.
I then reopened the machine and reconnected the power cable to the motherboard and nothing - no power.
When plugging in the power source with the battery in place, the LED adjacent to the power socket lights up WHITE then stays ORANGE and will not power up. No other lights, no fan noise, nothing.
If I remove the battery, the LED adjacent to the power socket lights up WHITE and stays white however will not power up either. Same agin, no other LEDs, not fan noise, nothing.
I have now opened the machine back up and disconnected the power from the motherboard. Put it all back together and the laptop powers up as normal with the battery and it works fine. (Well until the battery runs out anyway).
I'm having some issues with my MacBook's USB hub. I have the macbook from 2007 I believe that has 2.0GHz and 1GB of RAM. WHenever I connect my iPhone to the USB port to sync, it pops up with this dialog box that says that my iPhone is drawing too much power and thus the USB hub will be deactivated.
I have an Aspire 6930 that suddenly died and will not power on. The LED power button was dark and unresponsive. I performed a power reset and the blue light on the power button came back on until I pressed the button to try to restart the laptop. When I did that, the blue LED immediately went dark and stayed that way until I did another power reset. It never gets to the point of anything powering on. Is it a problem with the battery or it the laptop toast?
This is a real bummer since I just replaced the hard drive a few weeks ago and replaced Windows Vista with Linux Mint (which btw is blazing fast compared to Vista).
Acer 5253 - Will not power on, battery or on AC power. Have tried all the suggested solutions but none have worked. Is it possible to get maintenace instructions (disassembly, where certain items are located, etc)?
