trying to do the undervolting mod on my 1410 SU2300, and I can't seem to find any details on the proper multiplier/voltage for RMClock. I'm using der_mali's tutorial for undervolting, and I've found that the proper multiplier is 6x (it seems that the SU2300 only has this one). For those who have a 1410 SU2300 undervolted, what settings did you use? Any extra things I should be aware of?
I have till Friday to exchange my Acer Aspire 1410 SU 3500 for the SU2300. I am seeing some people show the benchmark is much higher for the SU2300. Of course I would like to have the faster unit and better unit since I am spending $400. I dont do much gaming but I do alot of videos and work. am I better getting the Dual Core or just keeping my Single Core ?
After getting my new 1410, I was interested in finding out just how much a hard drive and RAM upgrade would help. I have a 1410 SU2300 which came with 2 1GB DDR2 Dual Channel 667 Mhz 5-5-5-15 RAM modules and a 160GB Western Digital Scorpio Blue. I made a list of fairly well known benchmarks, and ran them with various configurations using upgraded RAM (2 2GB DDR2 Dual Channel 800 Mhz 6-6-6-18 Corsair) and HDD (320GB Seagate Momentus 7200.4).
For testing, I wiped the drive, installed Windows 7 x64 Ultimate, and applied all the tweaks in the 1410 thread, including installing BatteryBar, RMClock, and a few programs of my own like Office 2007 and Dropbox along with the latest drivers for every component and all of the latest MS updates. Then, I installed the following programs for benchmarking:
PCMark Vantage x64 Professional - Overall performance indicator, provides scores for various areas of computer usage. Instead of running synthetic benchmarks, it runs scripts using standard Windows programs like Media Player and Internet explorer. Accurate and popular with repeatable results; probably my favorite benchmark. PCMark Vantage x86 Professional - Same as x64 version, shown for 32 bit comparison – can only address 3.5gb of the 4.0 installed Passmark Performance Test 7 – Synthetic overall benchmark, could not be completely run due to directX issues. Not very repeatable or accurate, I personally dislike it. IOMeter – Hard drive benchmark, sends repeated IO requests and measures operations completed per second in various configurations. Reasonably repeatable, very accurate, much better at providing an overall performance indicator then synthetic sequential readwrite HDD benchmarks. Everest Ultimate – Memory, CPU, and HDD benchmarking options. Not very repeatable or reliable.
Geekbench x86 – Memory & CPU benchmark. Somewhat repeatable, fairly inaccurate.
Geekbench x64 - Same as x86 version, allows for comparison between x86x64.
Crystal Disk Mark – HDD benchmarking program using various file sizes. Results given in MBs. Very accurate and repeatable, my favorite sequential readwrite testing program. Used 9 pass 1GB file settings.
I think I remember reading that the SU2300 is better (or perhaps better bang for your buck) than the SU3500. I'm pretty sure the SU3500 is supposed to be better than the SU2700. So, does that make the SU2300 better when compared to the SU2700?
I'm haven't made up my mind on the 13.3" form factor, but the $499 price point seemed like a deal. Also, is the 13.3" eligible for Windows 7?
I've loaded my memory into another computer where the SPD could be read/written (non x64 OS) and I've tried to set the SPD on the Nanya modules to 6-5-4 to 400Mhz. I also copied the config of a DDR2-800 Nanya module that exactly matches the part number of what's installed in our system, but after clicking write, I reboot and have the same memory timings..
I bought the Acer 1410 with the single core SU3500 Core 2 Solo CPU. It looks like Acer decided to release them with the SU2300 now, which is dual core at 1.2GHz (compared with 1.4GHz of SU3500).
Does anyone have any benchmarks comparing the two, and/or if they have a solid understanding how much better it would perform compared with the SU3500? I also see that the single core AS1410 with Celeron M @ 1.3GHz sells at the same price as the dual core.
decided to try out undervolting to solve what i suspect are cpu overheating issues which causes the gpu to downclock when playing games... i know others have done the same.. question is, how far below the default voltage have you guys gone? the default for the 12x multiplier is 1.1365v and right now im testing 1.0125v... i think ive undervolted a considerable amount already but have only gotten 1 or 2 degrees off my max cpu temp... also, do i have to undervolt all the multipliers? or is it ok to have my 12x multiplier at a lower voltage than the other multipliers? i dont really have the time to find the right voltage for all the multipliers
Im a newcomer to both laptops and this forum. I found your ultimate 1410/1810 thread and I was redirected to these two threads:
Undervolting guide and 1810T undervolting guide
I managed to get up the profile for the RMClock but somehow the program showed me only one mutliplier, 6X. The CPU ran at 0.9V, but at 1,2GHz, while it should do 1,3GHz under load. I uninstalled the program and the CPU ran at 1,3GHz once again. I cant seem to find out where to get the second 6,5X multiplier
Just got me an Aspire 5536G (2.2 ghz Turion, ATI 4570) and it is running hot! After a few minutes of Prime95 the CPU gets up in the 90s (Celcius), and 15-20 minutes of gaming gets it there too.
Is there a tool that lets me undervolt and lower clocks? The BIOS is very anemic, so I cant set things there.
I am also looking for a good fan speed and temp monitoring program. I have tried a few but only CPUID HWMonitor reports temps for both cores and two more sensors (presumably located near the GPU). SpeedFan only reports one temperatur.
I've been attempting to undervolt my laptop following this guide The "Undervolting" Guide
Using RmClock, I reduced the voltages to the minimum and ran Orthos for 12 hours.. without a crash... It seems sort of wierd being able to reduce the voltages to the lowest amount allowed for all of the multipliers,
So, the famous notebookreview undervolting guide is aimed for computers running windows, so I'm wondering if there's a guide to undervolt cpu/gpu under OSX? Since opening the computer to apply AS5 (and void warranty) isn't worth it, undervolting is the next best thing to dropping massive temps for doing virtually nothing.
I want to undervolt my Presicion M4400 as per this guide: The "Undervolting" Guide
A few questions as I embark!
1) Does it matter how much power my M4400 draws when I do this? That is if I later attach USB drives, add a 2nd hardrive to optical bay, should I take these into account? I assume no but just checking.
2) After doing the first stress test I got max temps of 76C on CPU, after lowering the max 10.0 multiplier voltage and running it for 10 min I got max temps of 79C. Something must be wrong?
In RMClock's CPU info page (see pic. 1) the "current" 10.0x multiplier reads 1.1250V when Im doing the stress test although I've set the 10.0 multiplier to 1.1500V (default max is 1.2500V) on the profile page (see pic 2).
Shouldn't the read outs correspond with the set max voltage? Also on the RMClock CPU info page (see pic. 1) the "maximal" 10.0x readout is 1.2500V which is again different from the set 1.1500V.
Is this normal or have the setting not been saved or something?
3) On the advanced CPU settings page my thermal monitoring is not checked (see pic 3) this differs from the Undervolting guide screenshots and is not specified if these should be on?
Does anyone here use RM Clock to undervolt their CPU's for better battery life and production of less heat with regards to the CPU. I use it and the lowest I can set it to is 0.95, I have selected mobile in the advanced settings CPU type. My results are:
8x-10x multipliers set at 0.95 11x at 0.975 12x at 1.00 .....
Should i contact dell ? I bought this laptop on july 2008 without any extra warranties and i think that i have 1 year only of warranty that comes for free right?. The downside is that im in south america so it might take a while...
I undervolted my notebook to some values, the temperature did drop by quite some decent degrees, but i want to get it to the limit, what's the stable values you guys mostly got on your dv5? (im intested in those with similar configuration to mine - see sig)
Following the excellent flipfire's undervolting guide and inspired by Silvr6's experience with undervolting his dv2, I decided to give it a try and...I was able to increase the battery lifetime from almost shameful 2h 25 minutes to 3h 30 minutes for mpeg 2 play, or even to 4h 20 minutes (light browsing and lots of reading). So, you get at least 25-30% more battery lifetime. This makes me like my dv2 a lot more!
Perhaps, it's the noted AMD's tendency to overvolt their CPUs, perhaps something else, but I was able to get the following 100% stable (in my case) voltages:
4.0x-0.6875 V 4.5x-0.7125 V 5.0x-0.7250 V 5.5x-0.7500 V 6.0x-0.7750 V 6.5x-0.8000 V 7.0x-0.8000 V (yes, it’s 0.8V again) 7.5x-0.8250 V 8.0x-8.5000 V
these voltages are stable for my particular CPU; yours might be slightly lower or higher. For example, Slvr6 was able to get a bit lower with 4x – 0.675 V. Read the undervolting guide!
But I hope that the table above will encourage you to try the undervolting (btw, unlike the overclocking it’s 100% safe), since the benefits for dv2 and AMD’s “neo” are so dramatic!...........
I just wanted to share my experience on undervolting my HDX 18t 1103EA, Intel Quad 9000-2Ghz, 4GB DDR3 RAM, 9600M GT-1gb, Vista x64. After reading and trying the undervolting guide (thanks to flipfire), I couldn't make rmclock to work. Anyway because Q9000 has only 4 multipliers: 6x, 6.5x, 7x and 7.5x and rmclock does not support half ones, I decided to try CrystalCPUID. It can do only three ones and I choose 6x, 7x and 7.5x. I managed to go down to 1.163- stable on all three. CrystalCPUID would not allow any lower than that, although according to Intel Q9000 lowest voltage is 1.050. Strange enough both CPU-Z and Everest show that this the actual voltage when CrystalCPUID is active. Also when it is not active the cpu works only on the highest multiplier- 7.5x. My idle temp didn't really changed- it is always around 48C-55C (no AC in my room). I tried to buy CpuGenie (10 euro is nothing for some extra life on a 1300 euro mashine, but paypal asks for registration and I don't want to register.
I've been using RmClock to undervolt my Dell Inspiron E1505 for awhile under Windows XP and its been great. But recently I went from XP to Windows 7 32bit, it stopped working. It'll just run the default voltages. I've tried running it under administrator and Windows XP compatibility mode but still doesn't work. I was wondering if anyone knows how to make it work under Windows 7 32bit?
Since the P8600 is a fairly common CPU on the XPS Studio 13/16 I thought this would be worth posting.
Stability was confirmed at each FID with Orthos for 60 minutes. I chose to disable SuperLFM and IDA. Under 100% load, at 2.4GHz the reported CPU temp dropped almost 12 degrees C. Obviously the difference was less at reduced speeds, but still worthwhile.
I do not notice any difference in the way the computer responds or performs, so as far as I am concerned this is free cooling. I was able to get 4hr 15min on the 9-cell battery with screen brightness @ 30% and low CPU demand (IE8 with wifi) so it probably modestly improves battery life too.
I have an Acer 5610-4610 system. It was repartitioned to one XP drive for several years. I am finally wanting to put the PQ service partition back on it but none of the folders of the restore CD's have any of the files needed to recreate this partition. I am wanting to put the factory (VISTA Home Premium) system on C. With all the system files and folders from the 3 restore CD's into the PQSERVICE partition. I have no clue how to proceed.
I do remember there was an acer(C) partition and a data (D) partition when I got it. The PQSERVICE partition was there back then.
The first (System) CD has none of the files mbrwrdos.exe or rtmbr.bin used to create the PQSERVICE system.
I run the ACER Disk Formatter and it cannot find any drives on the laptop.
Weird! From what I've been able to glean my thought was that that the Formatter disk would facilitate creating the correct partitions?