Before I bought this laptop, I asked apple about 5 times if the new single right click on the trackpad is supported in Windows and they said yes. I buy the laptop, install windows.. and the only way to do a right click is to tap using three fingers.
I'm winding down my search for a new laptop for business and personal use, and after a week or so of due diligence researching windows alternatives I've all but decided to return to Apple.
In deciding whether the MBP is worth an extra $400, my question to the Apple subforum is: What (other) differences are there between the MB and MBP?
Obviously, their footprints are different, and they have different screen resolutions, and the 9600 GPU is exclusive to the MBP. The MB isn't offered with factory 7200 hard drives, but since Macs don't need to be restarted as often as Windows PCs, I don't place a lot of value on that. I have a 1TB external drive w/ FW and USB. I'd be sad to give up Firewire, but I could live with using its USB connection...
What I'm wondering is whether there are other differences that add value to the MBP. I've read that, resolution aside, the MBP has a higher-quality display. Is there any truth to this? Is it that noticeable? Is it true, but inconsiderable? Or is it just flat-out wrong?
Along those lines, are there other differences that would make the MBP more attractive?
I've been using my new Macbook for a few weeks now. I must say, I'm impressed with the hardware and the OS. Definitely don't regret making the switch from Windows.
There is one issue that I have been having. The availability of only 2 USB ports has made using my peripherals difficult.
I am in the process of looking for a USB hub so that I can work more efficiently. I did some research and was able to find limited information. From what I know, the only thing I should be aware of is whether the hub draws its power from the port or powers itself.
Are these newer Macbooks about to power the port without any problems.
I'm looking to use an external HD (has its own power supply), wireless mice, iPods, and Blackberry. These aren't too power intensive.
I've been gaming on my MBP's 9600M GT since I got it in October and I've been pretty satisfied with the results. I just started Mirror's Edge and I get an average of 30fps outdoors on Med/High settings at max 900p res and 2x AA (I'd take off AA, but it just looks ugly to me without it). The trouble is that when I enable PhysX my fps drops down to about 26fps avg. I'd like to make up this difference with overclocking, but wasn't sure if I should.
I game about 1.5 hours at a time, and usually GPU-Z reports nothing higher than about 74C (I'm running 181.22 drivers from LV2G). I have a dinky little plastic cooler with three 80mm fans underneath it, too. I was thinking of a modest overclock, say maybe 10-15%, but was wondering what the dangers were, if any and what temps I would see. IMO the newer MBPs are MUCH better at dissipating heat than last gen, so hopefully that won't be much of a concern, plus I could always grab a program to boost the fan speeds as well right, SMTFan I think it's called. If I do go ahead and overclock, which speeds should I increase, core/shader/mem and by how much?
What say you NBR? Worth the performance gains or stupid risk on a relatively new laptop?
after getting a new 13" I have been noticing that it seldom gets warmer than 50C while in a speck case on a soft surface, while my 15" on the other hand is normally running at the high 70s and mid 80s and easily reaches the 90s if I begin watching a video on youtube when not in any sort of case and kept on a hard surface. I have been ramping up the fans using SMC Fan Control whenever I witness the machine getting warm but it makes me wonder if I have a faulty machine and is reason for me to get it checked out(it is still in warranty).
And just recently I switched to using the 9600M GT graphics card(for the first time since I got it really) and the temperatures hover at about the high 70s to mid 80s as usual but this time the fans are up to 3500-5000rpm on average without me setting anything with SMC Fan Control. Even just letting the machine idle for awhile doesn't get the fans to lower to 2000rpms(which I would assume is the expected normal speed considering my 13" seldom revs up a hair past 2000rpm).
I generally leave my 15" MBP on all the time(5 days/week), or put it to sleep whenever I am going to transport it(as I am sure most of us do). What I constantly have running is:Firefox(with around 40 tabs)Xcode or Eclipse(maybe both, but definitely one of them)Terminal(with a handful of tabs[3-7])AdiumPreview(with up to 15 or so documents open)iTunes
I have an issue with my MBP when I'm using vista. It just freeze after a few hours and I don't know why (I don't think that it is the network card driver, as suggested in other posts because I installed the driver provided there.
I just know that it is a driver issue because I got a blue screen with a notification from windows and it said that windows is shutting down to prevent damages to the computer because of a problem with a driver.all the drivers are from the Leopard DVD (excluding the network card driver).
I managed to buy a 6 week old refurbished macbook pro at 2.8ghz, with 4gb ram and a 320gb HDD. its a late 08 model. Arnt they surpose to have 500gb HDD's and if they only have 320gb hdd's? Also is it 540rpm or 7200 rpm and is there any way to find out?
Also didnt the macbook pros only go to 2.66ghz?
Although the apple info on the box(pic on ebay) shows 2.8ghz, 320gb HDD.
Performance wise, I havent been disappointed with the laptop, but one of the main drawbacks I see in the machine is its battery life - Apple has taken strides in improving battery life over 2009-2010, and its kinda annoys me that I'm stuck with the battery I have now.
I commute a lot to/from school, work on the bus/train, and have to use my laptop in places where power outlets are not readily available (some lecture rooms). Realistically, I get about 3-3.5 Hours with screen brightness on minimum, wifi and bluetooth turned of, and doing some basic word processing, as well as reading pdf's.......
My photography hobby is getting more complex than originally anticipated, so I now want to upgrade my HD from the standard 120GB to something bigger, since I only have about 10 GB left.
I have been looking at the WD Scorpio Black (320GB, 7k200, priced $89 at newegg and 150 on WD site), but was wondering if it would work with my MacBook (late 07/early 08) and if there would be any difference with the sales package from Newegg and WD own site..
Also I was wondering how the performance is, and if there would be any noticeable difference between the 320 Black and a 500 Blue (both WD)?
Also, what is the procedure, when upgrading? My present drive is backed up via TimeMachine (with all docs, pictures, music and apps).
I have a late '08 unibody MBP. Every once in a while, generally not every day but once every few days, I have a split-second issue where half of the screen on my MBP flashes black for a split-second. Everything's perfectly normal before and afterwards, just that. I suppose it's not terribly bothersome, but it is noticeable. I've done some searching and it seems to be happening to many people and may be software based.
Does anyone know if it's possible to install the new mid-2009 Macbook Pro 15" battery in the late 2008 macbook pro 15"? I looked at the pictures and it seems to be an identical fit, just no screw to secure the battery but from what I see all it is is a simple change in battery./
Has anyone debated trying this? I would love the extra battery life and I don't see why we couldn't do this aside from maybe the charging being 80w compared to the 73w for the new battery...
is anyone else having probs with their touchpad? i got this laptop in Feb and now when i click the button on the touchpad i have to press it a couple times before it does anything.
I worked my off to get this laptop. So I want to protect it as much as I can for as long as I can. I realize that since this is aluminum, it may experience corrosive pitting if I'm not careful.
SO, what case is the best to prevent this and to keep scratches off? I dont care if it changes the look, just give me the best one!
Another question, how are u supposed to pull out the magsafe anyway? Everytime I try to take it out, it always feels like the edge is going to scratch near the ports
I've had my MBP for about 4 month now and have been having problems with its keyboard since I bought it. First, the "Z" key sank in (I think there was a problem with the spring). I took it to the Apple Store, and they "fixed" on the spot (it's much harder to press and only registered a key press 70% of the time). The lower right corner of the "E" has noticeably sunk in, and I need to resort to pressing the upper left corner. Also, the left side of the keyboard feels "mushy", not hugely so, but definitely noticeable after typing a few sentences. Can I request that Apple just replace the entire keyboard instead of just individual keys?
I've recently purchases a Lenovo ThinkPad Edge 540 and it worked just fine untill earlyer today.While i was browsing the internet, some how my touchpad developed a problem.It only registeres right click where ever i click.I've deleted the drivers, even tho they were the knewest ones, downloaded a fresh .exe and installed it after the reset and what not and it still has the same problem.
If i turn off the touchpad in the ultranav software and enable only trackapad, the buttons work like they should, the large area in the touchpad registeres as the left click and the small area in the top right is registered as the right click. Tho i can't use the touchpad for navigation.So clicking doesn't works, well neither does tapping. I can doubletap normaly, but i cannot tap and drag such as selecting a block of text.
Again, i've already tried a fresh install of ultranav drivers and it didn't work. The problem manifested itself during normal browsing, nothing was installed nor changed hardware vise. It litteraly changed in a second.how to solve it since the driver reinstall didn't work.
I just got a MacBook Pro 13 in and noticed that when I'm using it but then get up to move somewhere else, it makes a clicking sound as I lift up from my lap. Is this normal? Maybe the hard drive is preparing to move or something?
When the laptop is on and I pick it up to move it I would often hear a loud CLICK sound coming from the HD. It had me freaked out that something was loose or that the heads were scratching the platters.
I just came across an article explaining what this noise has been. It is the sound of the read/write heads parking because of the "Sudden Motion Sensor" built into the laptop. It senses the rapid movement when I pick up the laptop and then it parks the heads to prevent scratching the platters... that is the click sound of the heads parking.
The sensor is a tri-axis accelerometer that detects sudden changes in "position and accelerated movement".
Anyways, I tested this to see if it was the "sudden motion sensor" parking the heads: - first I confirmed that the sound would still occur when picking up the laptop and tilting it quickly while still on - then I checked the sensor's settings to see if it was really on by running a command I found in the linked article. - then I turned off the sensor (that command is also in the article). - then I tested by picking up the laptop again and tilting it quickly...
no more CLICK
I enabled the sensor again because it is better to have it enabled than to risk scratching a platter if I drop the laptop. I'm just happy to have found the source of the CLICK and to know it wasn't a faulty HDD.
There has been an ongoing and as yet to be fixed issue concerning CTO Macbook Pro's with 7200 RPM drives. I would be interested in knowing if any of you who have purchased a Macbook Pro (since June 2009) from Apple with a 7200 RPM drive, have NOT had this issue. Can you please include your hard drive information including Firmware/Revision number, and when you purchased your Macbook Pro.
Article Regarding Apple's Announcement of Upcoming Fix, and User's Reports of Problem:
I recently upgraded my Z580 to Windows 8.1 x64 from Windows 8x64
Some Windows 8.1 drivers work, for some things I had to use Windows 8 drivers
But the touchpad isn't registering a two finger click as a right click on either of the drivers. It used to work fine on Windows 8 but I have to use the button to right click which is uncomfortable. Two finger scrolling works fine, pinch zoom gesture works fine, even Windows 8 screen edge gestures work perfectly...
I purchased Aspire E5-571 series laptop from a store in Chemnitz, Germany on 29th of Oct 2014. From the date of purchase, I find that when ever I right click on Desktop, it is taking 15-20 seconds of time to display various options. When I searched on internet, I found that some process which are incorporated by INTEL are the main reasons for this cause. But I am worried that whether my graphics card works properly or not with out these process. The following are process that I disabled.
After disabling these process, my problem was recitified on my own. But I wanted to know whether there is any solution other than this. I tried reinstalling graphics, Touch Pad drivers.
My laptop is ideapad z510 and os is windows 8.1All action and gestures are working in elan touchpad except two finger pad (Right Click)I searched the forum and found that the synaptic driver can fix this problem, but when I want to install it tell me that this system does not have any synaptic touchpad!I test both lastest update from Lenovo and Microsoft for touchpad driver, but didn't solve this problem!
I'm buying one or the other. My next computer will run OSX, that is the only thing I have set in stone.
13" MBP over 13" MB:
SD Card reader (This would be nice, but I can do without. I only use the reader on my current laptop like once every 2 months)
FireWire 800 (Absolutely no need for this)
Backlit Keyboard (Absolutely no need for this, people look at their keyboard while typing?)
Screen Color Gamut (60% more than that of MB I heard ... I know this applies to the older MB but not sure about the late 2009 MB. Can anyone comment on the difference?)...................
Is there any way that when i click clear downloads in the safari downloads window that the actual downloads will be deleted to. Like in firefox if you remove the downloads from the dl window it will remove the actual dl from wherever your default dl folder is.