I'm winding down my search for a new laptop for business and personal use, and after a week or so of due diligence researching windows alternatives I've all but decided to return to Apple.
In deciding whether the MBP is worth an extra $400, my question to the Apple subforum is: What (other) differences are there between the MB and MBP?
Obviously, their footprints are different, and they have different screen resolutions, and the 9600 GPU is exclusive to the MBP. The MB isn't offered with factory 7200 hard drives, but since Macs don't need to be restarted as often as Windows PCs, I don't place a lot of value on that. I have a 1TB external drive w/ FW and USB. I'd be sad to give up Firewire, but I could live with using its USB connection...
What I'm wondering is whether there are other differences that add value to the MBP. I've read that, resolution aside, the MBP has a higher-quality display. Is there any truth to this? Is it that noticeable? Is it true, but inconsiderable? Or is it just flat-out wrong?
Along those lines, are there other differences that would make the MBP more attractive?
I've been using my new Macbook for a few weeks now. I must say, I'm impressed with the hardware and the OS. Definitely don't regret making the switch from Windows.
There is one issue that I have been having. The availability of only 2 USB ports has made using my peripherals difficult.
I am in the process of looking for a USB hub so that I can work more efficiently. I did some research and was able to find limited information. From what I know, the only thing I should be aware of is whether the hub draws its power from the port or powers itself.
Are these newer Macbooks about to power the port without any problems.
I'm looking to use an external HD (has its own power supply), wireless mice, iPods, and Blackberry. These aren't too power intensive.
I've been gaming on my MBP's 9600M GT since I got it in October and I've been pretty satisfied with the results. I just started Mirror's Edge and I get an average of 30fps outdoors on Med/High settings at max 900p res and 2x AA (I'd take off AA, but it just looks ugly to me without it). The trouble is that when I enable PhysX my fps drops down to about 26fps avg. I'd like to make up this difference with overclocking, but wasn't sure if I should.
I game about 1.5 hours at a time, and usually GPU-Z reports nothing higher than about 74C (I'm running 181.22 drivers from LV2G). I have a dinky little plastic cooler with three 80mm fans underneath it, too. I was thinking of a modest overclock, say maybe 10-15%, but was wondering what the dangers were, if any and what temps I would see. IMO the newer MBPs are MUCH better at dissipating heat than last gen, so hopefully that won't be much of a concern, plus I could always grab a program to boost the fan speeds as well right, SMTFan I think it's called. If I do go ahead and overclock, which speeds should I increase, core/shader/mem and by how much?
What say you NBR? Worth the performance gains or stupid risk on a relatively new laptop?
Before I bought this laptop, I asked apple about 5 times if the new single right click on the trackpad is supported in Windows and they said yes. I buy the laptop, install windows.. and the only way to do a right click is to tap using three fingers.
after getting a new 13" I have been noticing that it seldom gets warmer than 50C while in a speck case on a soft surface, while my 15" on the other hand is normally running at the high 70s and mid 80s and easily reaches the 90s if I begin watching a video on youtube when not in any sort of case and kept on a hard surface. I have been ramping up the fans using SMC Fan Control whenever I witness the machine getting warm but it makes me wonder if I have a faulty machine and is reason for me to get it checked out(it is still in warranty).
And just recently I switched to using the 9600M GT graphics card(for the first time since I got it really) and the temperatures hover at about the high 70s to mid 80s as usual but this time the fans are up to 3500-5000rpm on average without me setting anything with SMC Fan Control. Even just letting the machine idle for awhile doesn't get the fans to lower to 2000rpms(which I would assume is the expected normal speed considering my 13" seldom revs up a hair past 2000rpm).
I generally leave my 15" MBP on all the time(5 days/week), or put it to sleep whenever I am going to transport it(as I am sure most of us do). What I constantly have running is:Firefox(with around 40 tabs)Xcode or Eclipse(maybe both, but definitely one of them)Terminal(with a handful of tabs[3-7])AdiumPreview(with up to 15 or so documents open)iTunes
I have an issue with my MBP when I'm using vista. It just freeze after a few hours and I don't know why (I don't think that it is the network card driver, as suggested in other posts because I installed the driver provided there.
I just know that it is a driver issue because I got a blue screen with a notification from windows and it said that windows is shutting down to prevent damages to the computer because of a problem with a driver.all the drivers are from the Leopard DVD (excluding the network card driver).
I managed to buy a 6 week old refurbished macbook pro at 2.8ghz, with 4gb ram and a 320gb HDD. its a late 08 model. Arnt they surpose to have 500gb HDD's and if they only have 320gb hdd's? Also is it 540rpm or 7200 rpm and is there any way to find out?
Also didnt the macbook pros only go to 2.66ghz?
Although the apple info on the box(pic on ebay) shows 2.8ghz, 320gb HDD.
Performance wise, I havent been disappointed with the laptop, but one of the main drawbacks I see in the machine is its battery life - Apple has taken strides in improving battery life over 2009-2010, and its kinda annoys me that I'm stuck with the battery I have now.
I commute a lot to/from school, work on the bus/train, and have to use my laptop in places where power outlets are not readily available (some lecture rooms). Realistically, I get about 3-3.5 Hours with screen brightness on minimum, wifi and bluetooth turned of, and doing some basic word processing, as well as reading pdf's.......
My photography hobby is getting more complex than originally anticipated, so I now want to upgrade my HD from the standard 120GB to something bigger, since I only have about 10 GB left.
I have been looking at the WD Scorpio Black (320GB, 7k200, priced $89 at newegg and 150 on WD site), but was wondering if it would work with my MacBook (late 07/early 08) and if there would be any difference with the sales package from Newegg and WD own site..
Also I was wondering how the performance is, and if there would be any noticeable difference between the 320 Black and a 500 Blue (both WD)?
Also, what is the procedure, when upgrading? My present drive is backed up via TimeMachine (with all docs, pictures, music and apps).
I have a late '08 unibody MBP. Every once in a while, generally not every day but once every few days, I have a split-second issue where half of the screen on my MBP flashes black for a split-second. Everything's perfectly normal before and afterwards, just that. I suppose it's not terribly bothersome, but it is noticeable. I've done some searching and it seems to be happening to many people and may be software based.
Does anyone know if it's possible to install the new mid-2009 Macbook Pro 15" battery in the late 2008 macbook pro 15"? I looked at the pictures and it seems to be an identical fit, just no screw to secure the battery but from what I see all it is is a simple change in battery./
Has anyone debated trying this? I would love the extra battery life and I don't see why we couldn't do this aside from maybe the charging being 80w compared to the 73w for the new battery...
I worked my off to get this laptop. So I want to protect it as much as I can for as long as I can. I realize that since this is aluminum, it may experience corrosive pitting if I'm not careful.
SO, what case is the best to prevent this and to keep scratches off? I dont care if it changes the look, just give me the best one!
Another question, how are u supposed to pull out the magsafe anyway? Everytime I try to take it out, it always feels like the edge is going to scratch near the ports
I've had my MBP for about 4 month now and have been having problems with its keyboard since I bought it. First, the "Z" key sank in (I think there was a problem with the spring). I took it to the Apple Store, and they "fixed" on the spot (it's much harder to press and only registered a key press 70% of the time). The lower right corner of the "E" has noticeably sunk in, and I need to resort to pressing the upper left corner. Also, the left side of the keyboard feels "mushy", not hugely so, but definitely noticeable after typing a few sentences. Can I request that Apple just replace the entire keyboard instead of just individual keys?
I'm buying one or the other. My next computer will run OSX, that is the only thing I have set in stone.
13" MBP over 13" MB:
SD Card reader (This would be nice, but I can do without. I only use the reader on my current laptop like once every 2 months)
FireWire 800 (Absolutely no need for this)
Backlit Keyboard (Absolutely no need for this, people look at their keyboard while typing?)
Screen Color Gamut (60% more than that of MB I heard ... I know this applies to the older MB but not sure about the late 2009 MB. Can anyone comment on the difference?)...................
I'm getting ready to buy the new FW490, but there's a processor difference I'm not sure of. Which is better? What's the overall performance difference between them?
Processor
* Intel® Core™ 2 Duo Processor T6500 (2.10GHz) [subtract $50.00] * Intel® Core™ 2 Duo Processor P7350 (2.00GHz) * Intel® Core™ 2 Duo Processor P8700 (2.53GHz) [add $50.00] * Intel® Core™ 2 Duo Processor P8800 (2.66GHz) [add $100.00]
I might be heading to the US and am looking into getting a new Z11 series. There are tons of models from what
I can see- do all them have the basic stuff like back-lit keyboard and light-sensors? Also, all of them have GT330 as well with Optimus technology correct
What's the difference between Latitude vs Inspiron Dell notebooks?
Now, I know that Latitude is for business use and Inspiron is for home use, but what does that mean?
Is there like any annecdotal evidence over the years that Latitude notebooks are more reliable than Inspirons? Less prone to breakdown? After all they were built for stability in mind. Is it worth paying the extra price for a Latitude model of comparable specs to an Inspiron model?
I'm in the process of identifying my next laptop to replace my 4 year old aspire and have come across the i5 core 5740 and 5942...
Both have the same processor i5 520 Both have the same graphics card ATI 5650 Both have a BD-ROM/DVD-RW
But the 5740 i've seen at £700 and the 5942 at £940.
Apart from a slightly larger hard-drive, the media board instead of the number pad and the backlit keyboard. What else would does the 5942 have that would constitute a £240 difference?
I received a new M1530 because the one I received have a couple of cosmetic flaws that were due to poor worksmanship (dents, scratches, etc.). I've been playing and comparing these two M1530's and I've noticed several things. My old M1530 came with the Optiarc DVD+/-RW drive and the new M1530 came with a Matsh1ta DVD+/-RW drive. I know a lot of people have complained about the DVD drive being noisy. Well.. the Matsh1ta drive is quiet! The Optiarc drive is super noisy. On to more things.. The old M1530 came with a Samsung 5400rpm 250GB harddrive, the new M1530 came with a WD 5400rpm 250GB hardrive.
None of that matters though because it has been replaced by a Seagate 7200rpm 320GB hardrive, and stuck the WD 5400rpm 250GB into my PS3.
OLD M1530: Optiarc DVD+/-RW drive (SUPER NOISY) Samsung 5400rpm 250GB harddrive MADE IN CHINA 6-Cell battery Cheaper Heatsink Assembly (Metal alloy transfer surfaces)
NEW M1530: Matsh1ta DVD+/-RW drive (PRETTY QUIET) WD 5400rpm 250GB hardrive MADE IN JAPAN 6-Cell batter Better Heatsink Assembly (Copper transfer surfaces)
The heatsink assembly is a big deal because we all know these things can get pretty hot, and we all know that copper has very good heat transfer properties. On the old M1530, the transfer surface is copper ONLY FOR THE CPU, leaving the GPU and Chipset with some metal alloy. Well the new M1530 I received have copper for all the transfer surfaces! COPPER IS BETTER!
There was a discussion on this subject before but I can't find it. Currently I own XPS 1330 with nVidia GPU and LED screen. My GPU died a while ago, was replaced.
After that I applied copper mod. But it will die some time in future again. So I'm thinking to replace my mobo with one that has integrated GPU.
Would there be any lag on video playback on the 8X Slot-Load Blu-Ray Reader versus the 4X Slot-Load Blu-Ray Reader/Writer for the Dell Studio XPS 1640?
Is there going to be much difference in terms of battery life between the 4 and 6 cell battery? I did read a review of the 1545 in which they referred to battery life as appalling - around 90 minutes.
I currently have a Latitude E6400 that I LOVE...except for the display. I bought it from the Outlet and it was such a good deal that I couldn't pass it up. But it has the WXGA (1280x800) CCFL display and I really wanted the WXGA+ LED.
I'm in the process of finding its replacement, again from Dell Outlet. I'm seriously thikning about stepping up a size to the E6500 and getting the WUXGA (1920x1200) display. The Outlet also has a surprising number of Precision M4400s in stock, too. I've also found several of those with the WUXGA display that I want.
I don't "need" the more powerful graphics card in the M4400. But I really like (make that- LOVE) the exterior design of the Precision
