getting power on password for my laptop nx6115 as i forgot the password and i've bought it from someone else and nothing happens if remove cmos battery as power on password gets saved in eprom.
I have a HP Dv6629us Laptop which has been good for the few years that i have had it and just a few days ago it wouldnt power up.. It tries to power up when i hold the power button for a second then it shuts off which i can hear the harddrive spinning briefly as it does, so i know its trying. I tried taking the Battery out and just having the recharge cable in there and still the same thing powers up for a sec then shuts off when i hold in the power button and the recharge light comes on when i plug in the cable.
Several weeks ago I replaced the power socket on my dv6500t because I had to pull the power cord in a certain directions. (see the thread here: dv6500 Power problem) For a few days it seemed to help although I moving the laptop in a few directions still cased the AC power to cut out.
Now after a bunch of weeks, it's back to where it was before. i.e. I have to pull the cord in basically one of two directions to get AC power. I'm assuming with these symptoms either the power socket on my laptop is screwed up again or there is something wrong with my power cord. Could it be anything else?
At this point, I feel like it's probably the power cord, but I don't want to pony up 150$ only to find out I'm wrong. I could send it into HP for them to fix it. It's a nice machine (core2 2.4ghz, 4 gb ram, etc)
i got this laptop for FREE from a buddy who dosnt want to fix it cuz he only paid 100 for it.
Here is the problem.
The laptop has no power at all. When AC plugged in no blue LED around the plug on laptop no nothing no lights at all. The battery is dead and will not turn on with or without the battery in. Now i have tested the AC cord and replaced it still no power. WHAT IS UP i took the laptop appart to see if there were some torn wires or anything and it al looks good...
I need to open up my hp dv4000 to see if the dc is loose. Before I go taking every screw out of this thing and removing things I may not have to remove, can anyone tell me the quickest way to access this?
Just as a background, the problem is that I need to rig up the power supply cable to that it's pulled taut in a certain way, just to power my computer. If it moves the slightest bit the computer shuts down. My battery won't charge either. My educated guess is that best case scenario, it's a loose connection. Worst case it's the motherboard.
it is old and not worth the time but my 5yr old daughter uses it to for music and school work. so its worth it to her.
zd7260us will not power on. I have bought a new AC Charger & Battery just to eliminate them.
when the laptop is plugged into the charger (w/o battery) the ac light comes on (not the battery charge light!). when the power button is pressed the the power indicator light comes on for 1 second then goes off and the laptop does not boot. I hear no sounds of any kind during this process
when i install the battery and try the above i achieve the same results no matter if the charger is plugged in first or vice versa.
Configurations Attempted - all with no luck 1. tried 1 ram module at a time, different sockets, no modules 2. no hdd 3. no dvd writer 4. no wifi 5. disconnected touchpad 6. cpu removed
i also checked the resistance at the dc jack - all checked ok.
obviously i have taken a apart the lappy and found/seen no obvious visual problems. the DC jack looked to have good connections and was not loose in any way.
The other day I was shutting down my laptop and it paused as normal to install the latest Windows updates. Later that evening I went to power it on and nothing happened. I immediately check the power brick and it's power light was on. Then I swithched to batter and stll nothing would come on. It's as if no power is gettng to the laptop.
I remember a similar thing happened when my hard drive connector failed, so I swapped them out, but changing that had no effect.
what I'm failed to check or what could be wrong before I have to pack it up and send it back to HP?
what HP's ETA is on these batteries? I was hoping to order one before I go off to college, or even sooner if possible. I love my 16t, but the battery life is horrendous even on power saver settings, so any improvement (thus the Boston Power batteries)
I own a HP DV5-1025el laptop with Turion Ultra ZM-80 processor and Windows Vista 32 bit, running at 2.1 Ghz. The laptop is working wonderfully and I have no stability problem at all.
Since I love to optimize my machines at maximum, I started to search some informations about Power States and such similar things, mostly to tweak and reduce battery cpu usage. I made by myself an utility to control CPU Voltage for each pstate, like PumaStateCtrl, but more flexible. It's in an early stage, but it seems to work good for ZM processors,
I studied the official AMD datasheets about Turion and Turion Ultra (mainly ZM and RM series) processors and found that they have 3 active PStates (actually they have 8 pstates, 3 are activated and 5 are not). My ZM-80 has these pstates:
PState 0 - 2100 Mhz, 1.100 volt - Enabled PState 1 - 1050 Mhz, 0.950 volt - Enabled PState 2 - 525 Mhz, 0.800 volt -Enabled
Then there are other pstates from 3 to 7, but are disabled: PState 3 - 1050 Mhz, 0.950 volt - Disabled PState 4 - 800 Mhz, 1.550 volt - Disabled PState 5 - 800 Mhz, 1.550 volt - Disabled PState 6 - 1050 Mhz, 1.200 volt -Disabled PState 7 - 1050 Mhz, 1.200 volt - Disabled...........
HP dv2500t with nVidia overheating problem about 2 years ago. About 3 months after my 2-year extended warranty expired, my laptop started having problems with the screen that split into 8 parts and showed lines running across. Unfortunately, HP was of no help since my laptop wasn't on the list of those recalled and asked me to pay an extra $400 to get it repaired.
After doing research on the net, including this site, about this problem, I decided to replace the motherboard myself. I ordered an exactly the same motherboard that came with the same nVidia chip from a reputable seller who specialized in selling used motherboards. He assured me that it was tested and even recommended adding a piece of copper on top of nVidia chip. So I carefully took apart the laptop, added a piece of copper that came with the new MB using instructions posted on this forum (with Arctic silver 5) and reassembled it.
To my surprise, the laptop wouldn't power up. When I plugged the charger, the blue LED light would go on both the front side and the right side where the charger goes. And then there were no other signs of life from the laptop. I thought maybe I didn't connect some wires properly. So I disassembled and reassembled the laptop 2 more times. All to no avail.
Recently got a new battery and no problem. A short while later won't power up. This is my fiance's machine and she said no warning before just won't start. if the most likely problem is now the Power supply is shot?
I'm planning on purchasing an Elitebook (8740 maybee) that I want to semi-permanntly dock to a monitor and external keyboard. But I dont like the idea of having to open the lid, power on the laptop, close the lid and then use my system, so I was hoping there is a docking solution out there that would have a power button mounted so i could power the laptop on and off with the lid closed.
I've been thinking about buying a new power adapter to replace el-giganto that came with it. I understand that there is at least one Kensington power adapter that works (model 33197). That one, IMO is a bit too large. Curiously, that adapter is not directly visible on Kensington's website for Laptop Power Adapters, but is searchable (by part number).
So my question is whether there are any people out there that have used, for example, the model 38066 or the model 38067 successfully? Those two models are smaller (physically) than the 33197, but they don't actually list the Wattage they provide (they're listed by Voltage and Amperage - which kind of makes Wattage, but not exactly). It seems as though they might be 90W adapters (as the product pages make continual reference to their power efficiency over "other 90W adapters" which leads me to believe that they're probably around 90W adapters.
Or whether the model 38031 or 38030 will fit? These adapters are a bit larger, but appear to offer more input amperage. Though they also say "Up to 90W output" so ...
From what I understand, the HP Envy 15 will throttle the machine with less than 120W of input wattage.
I cleaned and reinstalled Windows Vista Home Premium SP1 (don't use HP Recovery). So I don't have the HP Recommended Power Plan. I want to add it into my OS or learn to create a new Power Plan like it.
It seems that the the end of the power plug (the center pin) is broken.
I have a HP 8710p, and this AC adapter ---> [url]
What I'm asking for is a picture, or a rough explanation of how LONG is the gold'ish connector (the center pin) inside that plug.
I'm asking because I want to find out whether it's the motherboard power connector that's broken or if the center pin inside the DC power plug somehow broke and doesn't provide the power..
I am in need of a new AC adapter for my HP Envy 15. Can any of you veteran owners recommend me a reliable and quality one (and hopefully under $100), preferably with a decently long cord?
I remember reading somewhere about someone recommending to do some kind of mod that will drop the voltage for the nvidia 9600 gpu without any performance sacrifice and gaining better battery life.
Yes I know this laptop isn't built for battery life and I barely use it off the adapter but I'd like to reduce the heat thus extending the life of this ticking bomb
The exact message is Power-On Password and a symbol of a key.
I am trying to clear this Power-On Password message on a HP Compaq nc8430. Searching though this forum and on the Internet, everyone mentions I should remove the laptop battery and the internal battery to clear this password. I have do so and left the battery out overnight and the password is still there.
I have found another mention of a IC or similar that is used on laptops to be more secure. I have also found mention that some laptops can be reset by a "jumper" or by touching points on a motherboard.
I am trying to find a power adapter for my HP dock XB3000, however, everywhere I look, the power adapter seem to be the same. My laptop uses the newer smart pin connection, however the dock uses a smaller plug. When I look on ebay, I see they list practically all hp laptops to be compatable with their power adapters. I was just wondering if the power adapters are practically universal, other than the difference between the 65W and the 90W adapters.
I have a old hp zv5000 and it seems to randomly shut down, the problem is very peculiar. The battery on the hp cant hold charge for more than 10 minutes but the problem lies in the charger/laptop itself. The charger only seems to be able to charge the battery and the system only seems to runs on battery power, the battery runs out and the system shuts down (without any notice). When the battery is taken out of the system, it fails to start up.
i am guessing somewhere in the mobo :S since the laptop itself cant turn on external power when the battery is disconnected and only seem to run off battery power.
I just bought a brand spankin new HP dv5t series, got it 3 days ago, i inspected it when i got it out of the box and it was beautiful.
However a little later I noticed that the power (cord side) that you plug in to charge was pretty loose.
Now just today I tripped on the long part of the cord... it moved the laptops position on the desk a few inches, and enough to pull it out of the box in the middle of the cord, and it feels even loser.. but I cant tell if it really did, i might just be paranoid.
This worries me because on my last two laptops they were pretty tight and had no play in them, both of the ended up broken.
So while I was getting a blu-ray burner and HD upgrade for my DV5t, I got a promo advert in the mail from HP and it mentioned their Slim Travel Power Adapter (with USB charging port). I travel about 4000 miles by plane every 4-6 weeks, and I carry my Dv5t with me in a shoulder bag. After putting my laptop in a neoprene sleeve before putting it in the bag next to my paper file, there is not much room left in the bag for the power supply, wireless mouse, and misc cables, much less a bottle a water for the 4-hour plane trips.
On top of that, the charging port on my phone doesn't work anymore (I know, I need to change it, but I'm waiting for summer when I'm out of contract and can switch carriers and phones), but it still charges via the USB sync cable.
So the slim travel charger was looking pretty good - less space used in a very tight bag, and a way to charge my phone when my laptop is off. So I ordered it excitedly.
And I was quite let down.
The first issue I've had with it, is that although the transformer block it is slimmer in height that the one the that came with my laptop, it's just as long, and wider. At it's tallest, around the AC-in port, where it bulges out, it looks be just under a 1/4-inch in height savings. while being about 3/8th-inch wider and 1/8th-inch shorter (the long axis).
I have two power bricks for my notebook (I bought a second one at the time I placed my order so I would have a spare for traveling, etc.)
One of the bricks gets way hotter then the other. I don't understand why, they are both 120W adapters. I can't help but be paranoid that something is wrong with the one that gets really hot and I'm afraid to use it. I mean why would one barely get warm and an identical second one gets hot?
Just got one of these, and the power brick is well erm.. a brick!
I need / want to get a third party one that is hopefully smaller, so does anyone know of one suitable? or, if not.. know of what i should be looking at to try and find one?
Is it normal for the power brick to get hot? When I say hot I mean, it's so hot I'm afraid to leave it plugged in and go anywhere. I just got my system the other day but really haven't messed with it so far (except for making sure everything was up to par.) Today I started getting into everything, clean install, etc and I noticed like after 10 minutes of it being plugged in (120 watt brick) the brick was so hot it felt like my heating pad on high. I've never experienced this before, is this normal?