The thing they call "edge to edge glass" which is really just plastic above an ordinary screen. The thing is, that the screen under that edge to edge plastic is a nice anti-glare screen, no kidding! You can see this if you take your laptop in sunlight and tilt it the right way.
So what's happening is you're getting the worst part of an anti-glare screen (reduced contrast ratio) plus the worst part of a glossy screen (unless you have a really pretty face).
I took the plastic thing off, cut along the black/clear border, pulled out the middle, and stuck the centerless border back on the laptop.
Result? THIS SCREEN IS FANTASTIC. Yeah ok, of course I would say that. But if you knew me, you'd know that was way out of the ordinary and really meant that THIS SCREEN IS FANTASTIC.
One thing you may not have considered is that the screen in its default position has yet another flaw, both sides of that glossy plastic thing are glossy, so some of the light coming from the screen is reflected back to the screen, and as you know light reflected onto the screen has a yellowish tint. That is my guess as to why the whites on this screen are really really white now, and the screen is much brighter. This also explains why other 300nit screens used to look so much brighter than this.
I will have more pics when I am able to charge the battery to my good camera. If anyone has any questions about removing that plastic thing I'll be happy to answer your questions, it's actually pretty easy. For those interested, here is how I did it:
1. I removed the "star" head screws, this was accomplished not with a special star head screw driver, but an ordinary flat head precision screw driver.
2. Put some paper over a hacksaw blade to avoid scratching, wedged it under the plastic near the top where the camera is, and snapped out the first of the several lock-in points on along the top edge. I proceeded to detatch the rest of the top of the screen in this way.
3. Both the left and right sides were held on mostly by adhesive, the very edge point locks in slightly, but the efforts removing these sides are focused mainly on separating the adhesive bond.
4. I pulled upward on the plastic and it came right off, there seems to be no adhesive or lock-in points on the bottom side.
5. Using the center of the screen as a test area, I tested several cutting utilities and decided on the utility knife. To my surprise, the plastic was about 1mm thick.
6. I clamped the screen down to the table, with a straight edge positioned 1mm inward of the black line, to give headroom for errors.
7. I cut along these lines, and repeated step 6 for each side, and pushed out the center to reveal the border piece that now resembled a common laptop screen enclosure border.
8. I used a medium grit sand paper to bring the cut lines to meet the black lines, and finished it off with a fine grit sand paper.
9. I applied some electrical tape to the area between the edge of the screen itself, and the edge of the laptop on the right and left sides because there was light leakage, and then popped the border back on and screwed it down.
Found the charger! Here's the high res shots. They do *some* justice to the screen quality.
Heres a video I made to demonstrate the ammount of flex on the edge to edge lid. It does have flex and bend, but its not as bad as the one j3n82 reported. I recorded with an iPhone so the video quality is crap. Also forgot I had left it in portrait mode when I recorded it (I didn't have a tripod so I used a cup lol). But I hope it gives some of you a basic idea of the quality. I thought openning the blinds to allow the vertical lines will show the bend/flex a lot more. I was applying quite a bit of pressure, although it doesn't seem like I was in the video. I felt as if any harder I might have damage something, or maybe pop the edge to edge screen out. I used an 8lb dumbell, I think thats the limit.
If you noticed the cloth I used to cover the keyboard when I closed the screen, I did this this to avoid getting the smudges on the screen when I pushed the lid down onto the keyboard.
At the end of the video I tried showing the Edge to Edge display, notice how theres another layer of screen over the bezel. Thats the difference between the edge to edge.
I had my screened replaced yesterday due to dust underneath the screen. And now i just noticed 3 specs underneath it. My question is how these poorly sealed screens get by dell's quality control? Thank god i got the 2 year onsite on top of the 1 year return to depot. I think ill be using it alot for this problem right now im not gonna worry about it. I will wait for another problem to pop up but if that dosent in 6 months ill just have it replaced again. Anyone else have a poorly sealed screen on the Studio xps 16?
A lot of laptops now a days are sporting the edge to edge display, which imo is pretty cool lookin. I think Apple was one of the first to implement this in their notebooks so thats why I'm posting here.
But are these edge to edge displays really glass? I went to bestbuy to find out.
Checking out all the laptops from HP, Dell, and Apple, all their displays showed some form of flex when pushing on the center of the screen with my index finger. I'm no expert or anything, but glass is not supposed to flex at all.
Apple's notebook had the least amount of flex and probably is glass cause its so thin, whereas the Dell studio xps13 flexed so much it was unbelievable. I'm surprised this was not brought up in reviews.
Just to make sure it wasn't in my head I did the same thing to the imacs, and those screens were rock solid. Without a doubt are covered in glass.
So whats you're take on Apple's notebook? Glass or not?
I own an Edge 15, 64 bit processor. It came with 2gb RAM. I recently purchased and installed two 4 gb cards for a total of 8gb RAM. I updated my BIOS. Under "Computer>Properties" it is showing only 4 gb Install RAM. Why is it not reading or the system not using the additional 4 gb of RAM on the second card?
I just got my lenovo thinkpad edge e420 and after about a month of using it the on screen display for volume, microphone, camera, etc the f buttons has stopped showing up on my screen. I had not updated any drivers or anything i think i may have uninstalled one of the programs for this by accident i am not sure....
I recent did Microsoft and Lenovo updates and I have lost the On-Screen Volumn display. Not the Volumn icon in the task bar, I lost the display that shows the volumn going up or down on the screen. The video support suggested installing Power Management but this did not work. I have tried uninstalling and reinstalling the audio drivers, also did not work.
My Lenovo E440 screen flickers when I plug or unplug the AC power charger. I think this happened after I installed all the drivers. This doesn't occuer when the windows was still 'fresh-installed'.
I read on other thread that this also happened on other machines and I think the cause is the same, the refresh rate change from 60Hz to 50Hz when I plug the AC power and then it goes back to 60Hz when I unplug the AC power. So I plug the AC power then change both refresh rate to 60Hz. It went fine when I unplug the charger, but when I plug the charger again the refresh rate for while plugged in change to 50Hz again no matter how I try (so it flickers again when I plug the charger again).
Also, I am using Windows 8.1 Enterprise Evaluation and I've installed the latest Windows Updates, Lenovo System Updates, and Nvidia driver update.
My question is: 1. Is this software error or what? If it is software error then shouldn't this occur on all user? 2. What is the difference between the display refresh rate? Which one should I use (I though higher refresh rate is better)? Why does the refresh rate change when I plug/unplug the charger? If I remember correctly AC power source is 50Hz, does it related to this problem?
I have a problem with my Lenovo. The problem is that whenever I plug or unplug my pc adapter, the screen goes black for a second or so. I didnt experience this problem before, it started to occur a week or 2 ago.URL....
I have a Vostro 1500, which I bought 10 months ago. About 3 months ago the screen became loose and wobbled about 10 degrees when computer was moved or if I was on the train and it went over bumps. I tightened the screws as advised but this did not have any real effect. Dell engineer came and replaced the back cover with new hinges, (as they though hinges may be broken/at fault but they were fine,) but some wobble was still noticable so he ordered a new base. He came today and took the screen out complete with all the screen casing out of the old base, and put it into the new base, but still wobbled, so just put it back in the old base as it wouldn't have cured the problem.
Now yesterday, after he put the new back cover on, he had to take the plastic around the front of the screen off. After he put it together I noticed that the screen is no longer flush with the plastic surround and it annoys me! Am I just being finicky/picky or should I ask them to fix it?
but I can confirm just now that I took the plastic cover off b/c I could not stand the glare anymore, and it's a very nice matte screen underneath!
Now I am going to follow the other bold gentleman and cut out that clear plastic, leaving myself with an antiglare xps 1640!
The plastic is actually 1 mm thick as the xps1340 poster (livincali) stated. I was worried that for some reason the xps 16 would be slightly differently built than the xps 13, but it's not with regards to the screen.
I am confident that the plastic can be cut out with an exacto knife, if not just a pair of scissors. I do not have any sandpaper .....
Since awhile my screen use to bother me when i tried to open it more or less then 90°...from time to time it use to close down and I had to close the lead and open it again verry slowly, under 90° to be able to see the screen that was acceptable to me untill this week when this trick didn't work and now my screen is black all the time .....
the way the F keys have been switched on my Edge 14", today I came across some time to fiddle around with it. I googled what I needed to do...and came across this question on yahoo, which is exact what I need. I bought Lenovo Thinkpad Edge several months ago, and I really like it so far. But I use MS Excel a lot and I always use shortcut keys which involve F1~F12. On my thinkpad, I always have to hit "Fn" and "F1~F12" keys simultaneously, and it is a little annoying since I've been used to using F1~F12 keys without hitting "Fn". So I went to BIOS keyboard setting, and enabled the Function key lock. It became a little bit better, because now I don't have to hit "Fn" and F1~F12 simultaneously, but I could press "Fn" AND THEN, F1~F12. But what I really want is the "Fn" key always on without pressing it. On the BIOS screen, it says hitting "fn" key twice keeps "Fn" key always on, but whenever I hit it twice and hit F1~F12, it doesn't function like F1~F12 key, but it just controlls the sound volume or display light. Is there any way to keep "Fn" key always on without pressing it everytime I want to use F1~F12 keys?"
In short, in the BIOS page, once "enabled", you are able to double tap the Fn key and have it stay on without you pressing it each time; however, it doesn't appear to work that way and turns off everytime you use a F key.
I just bought an Edge 130 and wanted to set it up today. But I just can't enter the BIOS! I keep pressing F1 during the Lenovo splash screen. I've pressed it repeatedly, held it down, I even tried it with the Fn button pressed. Nothing worked.
I've have been working with and professionally supporting Lenovo (and before IBM) notebooks for over 10 years and not once did I have such a problem. This is only the second E-series notebook I have ever had. I bought myself an E525 last summer and had no such problems and at work we have T-, X- and W-series.
ThinkPad Edge, Win 7 Sp1. For the last month I have had a problem with the control key always down. Programs react as if the control key were pressed. MS Word 7 gives an error message that the control key is down and asks if I want to go to Safe Mode. I have had the keyboard replaced with no change. The computer has been thoroughly checked, all drivers, patches, software upgrades have been made by my Tech, and the Bios has been flashed.
Last week, I found a post on Google for Win XP where the poster had the same problems. The fix was to ensure that the Sticky Keys were turned off in Ease of Access on the Control Panel. I went to Ease of Access and turned off all of the selections, and the fix seemed to work. However, yesterday the problem reoccurred. I don't know if it is a problem with the motherboard, hardware, or with Windows. It appears that this problem affects more than one version of Windows.
It appears that the only way to scroll with the current driver is the two finger scroll. I need a driver that will allow me to edge scroll, that is using one finger on the far right of the touchpad for scrolling. Bonus points if the driver allows "momentum" and doesn't mess up other stuff.
I have a Lenovo Thinkpad Edge E530. Occasionally I will have the following icon pop up on my screen and refuse to go away: A reverse google image search told me this is the logo for the "thinklight", which as far as I know is not actually equipped on this model. As a side note, I have seen this happen on a friend's E530 as well.
I'm encountering having just purchased my laptop. None are dealbreakers and I'm not that put off by them but the fact that I'm not able to figure out a solution bothers me. Primarily, no matter what power setting I'm on or settings I change the display will turn off after 1 minute. Ther other power settings still come into play when they should (computer sleeps etc.) but I'm not able to delay the screen turning off.
I'm planning to change my 320 GB HDD to 240 GB SSD. I know the SSD is smaller than my previous HDD, but I just use it for Windows, I will store my data at external drive.My problem is how to transfer all partition from HDD also resize into SDD.My HDD have 4 partition, bold is must transfer to SSD
System_Drv (1.46 GB, System, Active, Primary Partition)Windows7_OS (111.76 GB, Boot, Page File, Crash Dump, Primary Parition, 40 GB free space) --> this one I need resize to fit onto SSDData (167 GB NTFS, Logical Drive) --> I don't really care about this partition since it will not fit onto SSDLenovo_Recovery (17.58 GB, Primary Partition, 5.32 free space)
I needed to reinstall Windows 7 and everything seems to be working after Lenovo replaced the system board but I'm unable to install a wireless adapter driver. How do I know which kind of adapter is in my system ? When I enter 0319 3UG as type I get a whole bunch of Wireless LAN drivers. Tried them all but none seems to work.