I have a Dell Latitude D800 I bought in Summer 2003. I've never really used it away from a power outlet in almost six years of ownership, aside from one time a few weeks ago - when the battery died within 15-20 minutes of powerwing on.
Is it normal for a six year old notebook battery to not hold a charge, even if it's never really been used, and has just been plugged into power (or shut down) constantly throughout the bulk of that time?
So I have a 3 year old Dell Inspiron 1520, the battery recently went dead. Cant charge and cannot hold a charge. Runs fine with the ac adaptor plugged in without moving it.
However I can not play games on it that I have been able to play before. Is this because I am running solely on the ac adaptor?
Either through Dell or on my own? I have 512MB but for the past year or so I have ALWAYS been over it for whatever reason (I blame Windows Search 4.0) and it's had a pretty negative effect.
I just found you, glad to be here. I searched for this but came up empty.
Latitude D800, XP Pro: I have crazy lines and colors on both the laptop screen AND external monitor at the same time. It also is present on both in Safe Mode.
Because it's both I'm thinking the video card is toast. I read that if it was the LCD or the Inverter, the external monitor should display fine. Whaddayathink?
I think I've bent one of the metal connecting parts on the actual keyboard too, so I think I'll need to replace the whole thing and not just the key.
In either case this key is not getting back on. Do current Dell Latitudes use the same keyboard, or am I going to have a hell of a time finding a replacement?
I took the key off because the button wasn't working, and sure enough there was a big wad of dust/hair blocking it...problem is I think I was too forceful when I removed it.
Recently I just bought(buy) the Intel Pentium M 745(1.8Ghz) chipset & Nvidia GeForce Fx Go5650 (128mb).
My technician did the work to install the new items, but when I get the laptop back I checked it and the GeForce doesnt work properly, FPS from 0-1, my old 32mb video card used to work on low at 25-30FPS at my LFS simulator game racing.
Yesterday my technician download another GeForce 5650 driver and seems works better 50-60FPS at the same game. BUT now the problem is that the Processor Fan start running after 1min of playing and the laptop get freeze, 1-2FPS
My Latitude D800 laptop recently had trouble to turn on. When pressed the power button (no matter how hrad or hard long to press), nothing happened, totally dead, power light didn't turn on at all. I tried with battery (two batteries) only, AC power only and both, same thing, but sometimes it could be turned on when I waited for a while or came back later and tried again.
I check my battery count almost every day, what I have noticed is that the full charge capacity decreases by around 5 every day. Three days ago it was at 5182, and now it's at 5169. I run my laptop on external power most of the time. Is such steady decrease normal?
When I switch on my Latitude D800, which I've just fitted with a new hard drive (Samsung), a box telling me that new hardware has been found and TI ultra media firmware loader device is being installed. All is well until the box disappears and then the system freezes up. I don't get much time to anything and am really struggling with it.
I have a Dell Latitude D800 that will not power on. When the power button is pushed the green power indicator light comes on, the CDROM spins for a moment, but then nothing happens, there is no BIOS information displayed, no power on self test, no Dell logo. It just sits there with the green power light on.I have tried removing the power & battery then pressing the power button for 10 seconds (actually, I have tried as long as 60 seconds). I have tried to turn on with the power connected but not the battery. I have tried removing the connector cable for the power button and the connector cable for the display and then reseating them.
I need to check the normal operating temperature for the Dell Latitude E7440. My fan is constantly on and the air coming out the side vent is extremely hot. I have installed a temperature app and with basic use (windows 8.1 and 2 or 3 apps open) the core 0 and core 1 of the processor are running between 85 and 90 degrees Celsius. When plugged into power, the fan is permanently on high speed. I don't know if this is normal. I dont understand why it is getting so hot, i have the i7, 8GB, 256GB SSD, so literally no moving parts to generate heat. My battery (47Wh) drains very quickly as well, 2 1/2 hours max.
Dell Latitude D630.... I bought a new battery about 2 months back (had the old one for a good 6 years before it finally bit the dust) and I've had no problems with it. The test button still shows all 5 bright and green. I recently replaced my adapter because it was getting old (almost 3 years) and it stopped charging since part of it's wires were frayed. The new adapter is not charging my computer.
It's Dell made so it shouldn't have a problem with the no-charge chip put in and it's New, not refurbished. I've tried different outlets, restarting computer, updating BIOS, checking battery, and lots of fun stuff in between.
I'm at a loss of what to do because without it charging it, I may as well have just stuck to my old one and saved the money. I'd rather have this issue fixed than never use my battery ever.
who has an E6530 with BIOS rev A07 test to see if the 'Custom' charging mode functions properly via the Battery Information application that is installed with the Dell Feature Enhancement Pack ? The Battery Information application worked properly prior to the A07 update.To test:
1) Reboot
2) At the DELL logo press F12
3) Select 'BIOS Setup' from the pre-boot menu
4) Select Power Management, then select the 'Primery Battery Charge Configuration'
5) Select the 'Custom' option (Write down which option is selected before you make the selection so you can restore this setting later)
6) Set the 'Custom Charge Start' value (e.g. 50, NOTE the BIOS will not allow a value less than 50)
7) Set the 'Custom Charge Stop' value (e.g. 75, NOTE: the BIOS requires this value be 5 greater than the 'Start' value)
8) Click 'Apply', then click 'Exit' and let the system boot into Windows
9) Launch the Battery Information application by performing the following steps: 9.1) Press the 'Windows' key 9.2) In the 'Search Program Files' search box type: 'Dell Battery Information' 9.3) Click on the 'Dell Battery Information' link in the search results
10) When the Battery Information applications starts, verify that the Charge mode displays 'Custom' (see figure )
11) Click on the 'Change Setting' button
12) Verify that the 'Custom' mode is not listed (see figure)
13) Verify that the 'Start' and 'Stop' values which are set in BIOS are NOT correctly displayed, and that you are unable to change the 'Start' and 'Stop' values.
14) Restore your charge configuration by selecting the Charge mode you wrote down in step 5
I'm upgrading my Toshiba MK3008GAL hdd to a MK8025GAL. The Toshiba HJ178 Flex Cable will not clamp tight in the new drive and now won't clamp tight back in the old drive either. The laptop does not see the new drive OR the old drive if I put it back in.
The ZIF connectors seem to work in that they flip up (open) and down (closed) as they're supposed to. In the old drive the cable was tight when I first removed it.
I've tried taping the cables down in both drives, and inserting paper in with the top of the cable to make a snug fit. Still neither drive is recognized.
I've ordered a replacement cable (used) in case I've mangled the old one, but still the old one should fit tight.
My 2 year old spilled juice on my new laptop about 3 weeks ago, and now when I power it on it goes to the boot screen, the blue bar doesn't finish loading and it turns off. Ok, today I was just trying things. It's 3 buttons at the top right of the laptop, if I hold the middle one the computer will boot, stay on and I can do everything as normal. But if I let that button go, it turns right off.
I have a D800 I haven't used in about 10 monthes. I took it out of the bag and charged the battery.
When I turn it on, it boots approximately one third of the way through the loading bar for the BIOS, and then it powers off.
I've tried it with both the power cable and battery, just power cable, and just battery; and it behaves the same way. Last time I used it, it was working fine.
I had the HDX16 on my shortlist for a new laptop but in all of the recent announcements by HP on refreshed Pavilions and new Envy laptops, the HDX has been conspicuous by it's absence. No information at all and I can still only see it available in Win Vista format from retailers, not Win 7. what the future holds for HDX? It looks like a good choice for a general multimedia laptop. Any refresh or updates planned? Or are HP likely to discontinue it?
I have open it and found nothing obvious on the solder connection but there must be a weak solder somewhere because when I play with it connected it comes on sometimes.
nyone knows where to find schematic or details of the motherboard in order to know exactly which solder spot to redo
I have a 4 year old Aspire 5552-5898 which is having issues ....
First issue is that the Laptop doesn't always boot. When this happens, the power button will light, the fan will spin, the HDD will start, but the screen stays black. Sometimes the PC will restart but the same thing will happen. Usually when this happens, if you hold down the power button, the laptop will power down, only to start up again. The only way to end this cycle is to unplug the machine and pull out the battery. Also of note this seems to happen 100% of the time if the machine is not plugged in, and about 50% of the time when it is.
The next issue occurs when the machine does actually boot. I HAVE to enter the bios because it never holds the date. I thought this could be a CMOS battery issue, but even after replacing that, the problem persists. After entering the date, and saving and exiting, the machine will boot into windows just fine.
I finally replaced the keyboard on my Latitude D800 - the spacebar stopped functioning. The new keyboard works fine, but I think I screwed up putting stuff back together.
The back plastic part that needed to come off (the thing with the power buttons, mute, and lights, etc.)
has a small bump in front of the four indicator lights around where the right screw is for the keyboard. I can't press it down more, thoug
I know this will be the bonehead question of the day, but...RAM rated at 667, runs at 333. CPU rated at 667, but runs at 166. Could someone explain how this all works?
Well i'm about to order a fully Loaded XPS 1330, but i'm confused on wether to get the Slim or the normal LCD.Which one is better?? and If I choose the normal lcd will it differ in weight?? and what's the actual weight of this laptop?
Finally, is this laptop worth the cash or shall I go for the Macbook?? I prefer the XPS due to the better video card.
When idle, my harddrive makes a very faint clicking noise. By "clicking", I mean the same sound it makes when it is loading something... you know, that "tik tik tik" noise.
However, when idle, it tends to make little "tik" noises every 2/3 seconds or so.
Now, according to the internet, clicking means my HD is about to die... but having looked on youtube, by clicking people mean very loud clicking, like i was turning a light switch on and off...
Now I don't know. Is "access" clicking every few seconds normal? Or should i get my hd replaced??
To clarify, the clicking i am experiencing is no louder than the clicking you hear when ur HD is accessing information. If I used HDParm and play with the settings, the clicking sounds becomes almost impossible to hear and less frequent.
