i have an Acer Travelmate 290 that barely starts these days. Fan is starting properly but screen remains black. Sometimes the bootscreen appears and then the screen goes white after some seconds. I can go into BIOS or run Memtest+ for some seconds but it always gets white some time later. I removed all modular parts and exchanged RAMs already. It got worse lately. Whereas the device starts maybe one of 10 attempts and remains stable for seconds it was working for minutes weeks ago. I detached/disassembled the notebook completely already several times. I don't have any Pentium-M replacement so this is the only part i couldn't swap yet.
I measured the cmos coin cell. It holds 2.539V of 3.0V. Looks empty but CMOS values are still ok i think (date is correct if i enter BIOS). Is it possible that the CMOS cell is responsible for those false starts?
My laptop is aspire 5601AWLMi. Just opened to upgrade the memory and came across this slot. Its 60mm wide or around 2.5'' length and is slightly smaller than the memory slot.
I have aspire ethos 5951g with a 750G HDD and this laptop have a one empty mini PCIe slot and i want to mini PCIe storage for system installing .......
May I use this slot to add mini PCIe SSD ?
And if i may what is the type recommended for this model ?
I have a grandson just older enough to be dangerous around a computer. Recently I allowed him to use my 5610Z to make some pictures of himself, etc. Later the family went home far from here. Still later I tried to start the Laptop and "enter supervisor password" would appear each time I tried to start it. I'm never used a password, don't even know how to do such a thing. Naturally I called and he "remembers nothing!"
I'm old, 75, and do not have good vision. I found in the Manual for the Model a page showing "Jumper Settings" and a diagram with the description, 'Clear CMOS Jumper.
Note: J3 locates at the bottom side of the main board as the red circle highlighted." Fine, I found it physically but don't know how to turn it on or off. I've pulled batteries to clear CMOS before but never had to deal with a switch.
Would I be correct in using tweezers and just pulling the square object up, or try to turn it?
I miss my Acer. Two years, never a blue screen, nor freeze up. I want it back running before I kick the bucket.
I've been losing date and time recently. I update files, then take them home on a USB flash drive and they appear to be older than what's at home. Turns out my date and time are maintaining. I have to reset date and time when I boot up now. Pretty sure I need to swap out the CMOS battery (maybe a CR2032?) how to find it once the case is opened?
i've currently got the back off my laptop and can't realy see the CMOS battery or anything to reset it such as jumpers, the closest I can see is a yellow thing under some casing I cant get to, can anyone supply me with some information with how to reset it on this chassis? i'm not going to have to take the front (keyboard etc) off am I?
since the 3810 is really noisy with AC plugged in, I decided to buy another battery to only run it on batteries.
But I found several different models running with the 3810 so I am confused and wonder if anyone has made experiences with original/3rt party batteries and would recommend a particular one. What I found so far are
there seems to be an invisible file in the trash been as it says "1 Item" but i can't see it, when I empty the bin it makes the sound but bin icon shows there's still trash? when i boot into Win7 via vmware the file disappears and the bin icon shows it emptied but when vmware is shutdown it reappears?
On a brand new Yoga 2 13 (500 GB hdd), when I check disk management, I see the following partitions:
1000 MB (has no volume label) "Healthy (recovery parition)" 260 MB (has no volume label) "Healthy (EFI System Partition)" 1000 MB (has no volume label) "Healthy (OEM Partition)"
Windows8_OS (C 424.26GB "Healthy (Boot, page ... " Lenovo (D 25.00 GB "Healthy (Primary Partition)" 14.17GB (has no volume label) "Healthy (Recovery Parition)" Except C: and C: all other paritions are listed as 100% free. i.e., they are empty.
Shouldn't these partitions contain recovery/boot data?
the empty hole next to the clip where i clips the screen when you close it. To my guess is a 5-1 reader because i also have a modem port . My question is , is it normal that there is an empty hole with no casing inside? I mean there isn't a casing like for sd card or something , just an empty hole . What can i use it for since there is no casing for sd card? This is a picture i found from google.URL....
I recently run into a problem, when I wanted to install my ANNO 1404 game, I inserted the disc into my laptop, but it shows no data, it simply looks to be empty. So I tried it in my desktop PC and there there is everything OK, disc is full, game can be installed. I left it be and after few days I wanted to see a movie, but after inserting the movie DVD into my laptop, I received this error in WMP: "Windows Media Player cannot play this DVD because there is a problem with digital copy protection between your DVD drive, decoder, and video card. In some cases, you can resolve the problem by updating the device driver for your video card." So I'm starting to think my DVD driver is somehow "wrongly set" or something like that. What can I do about it?
My OS is W7 Professional (on desktop too, so OS is not the issue), my laptop is Inspiron 15R SE 7520. Both DVDs (game and movie) are original, no stealing here.
Brand new G50-70: When using OS from the SSD or using OS from the SSD and doing things with a USB-drive, the empty internal DVD-drive making clicking sound and sometimes freezing SSD read/write operation for about 30 seconds but all the time freezing USB-storage read/write operation for about 30 seconds.
When freezing there's always clicking. But when clicking there's not always freezing except when using USB-storage.
OS is Win81-64.
An example scenario: connect USB stick, open terminal, type diskpart, dvd-drive clicks and freezes opening of diskpart for about 30 seconds, then the same may or may not happen when entering commands like clear the stick and format the stick.
I have a Dell 1525, bought in April 08, about 3 months ago time started to get out of sync and multiple problems with battery "plugged in not charging."
So today after charging the battery from a friends external battery charger ( friend had same problem) I was updating the BIOS to A16 from A06 and when the laptop was restarting with the bios update I get a message saying "Time of Day Clock Stopped."
My question is if I replace the CMOS battery will this solve the problem? Looking at dell documentation from http://support.dell.com/support/edoc....htm#wp1179839 looks tedious and time consuming but not hard .....
I have laptop Dell Inspiron 3200 p-2. I wanna buy cmos button battery before i open.I am not sure how to install.Please let me know the nmae/number of this button battry
I have a Compaq 6710b that was given to me for work. My friend put a password on it that requires me write in before the computer will boot in order for me to log-in to my work account. I believe that this is called a BIOS or CMOS or a boot password. My friend said that it is for extra security. I know the password and have no problems getting past this point, but I do not want to have to enter this first password to get to where I log-in onto my work account. The computer was not like this when I got it and I do not want to take it to a tech at work and explain to him what my idiot friend did. The friend does not know how to change it back so that I do not have to enter this password.
i am attempting to replace the CMOS battery in my presario; however, i can't seem to find it. i have tried to search for the service manual for this model but could not find it. i looked at the service manual for the C300 series and it indicated that the CMOS was under the memory module, but it isnt in the same place in mine.
Get a blank screen on the first reboot after disabling the secure boot following the procedure in this link: URL....
Laptop is Product- F5Y33UA#ABA
Model - 15-d017d (Thats all the info on the back, no product line eg... pavillion, envy, etc)
Tried a hard reset but no joy. Looking at some other posts on this forum, it seems that the next logical step would be to reset the CMOS. Trouble is I can't find any documentation to do with this laptop anywhere, so am unsure of the procedure.
I have a HP G60-126NR laptop. One day, it was stone cold when I press power button. I discharged the mothboard. I then installed a new CMOS battery . I am using the power adapter to power unit. When I press the power button , I get nothing toally dead, except to show the power connection light. If I remove the CMOS battery, then discharge the motherboard again, then plug in , and the laptop powers up without touching power button, and goes into setup screen to enter time. After entering time , it boots into Windows without issue. Windows SFC scan shows no error. If I shut down, not sleep, the laptop is dead again unless I discharge motherboard and start from square one. Also, I want to say that while Windows is running, if I close the lid to put to sleep, you can see that the screen is still active despite changing "what happens when I close lid". My diagnostics tells me it needs a new motherboard. PS: I did flash the BIOS off of HP Website thinking it would resolve my issue, but it did not ....
(I'm talking about original and genuine OEM batteries and not cheap generic batteries. )
I find it odd that brand new, genuine OEM Dell batteries bought off ebay cost 1/2 or 1/3 of the Dell website prices.
How is it possible to get an original OEM battery from Honk Kong with free shipping and still only pay 1/3 of the original price? I simply don't understand how the chinese suppliers can make a profit out of that. At the same time UK retailers on ebay sell their batteries for about 3/4 the price of a battery from dell.com. It's still a good deal, but not as good as the chinese batteries.
Take a look at these batteries for example: 6-cell for XPS M1330 [url] 9-cell for XPS M1330 [url]
I bought both of them for less than what a single 6-cell battery would have cost in my country and shipping from China only took 8 days! I've checked these batteries with Everest Utlimate edition and they show 0% wear and the battery life seems to be to spec.
i'm considering buying an e6400 from the outlet and i've been trying for days to find a configuration that i'm happy with. i've noticed that the hardest to get "right" are the screen and battery which is where this question comes in.
when i get an outlet "scratch/dent" or "cert refurb" are the batteries the original ones or are they new? i ask because if they're the old ones, there isn't too much of a point in getting a 9 cell over 6 cell because the batteries have probably lost a bit of capacity already.
