a piece of plastic broke off the edge of my mac keyboard a couple of months ago and now there is like a small hole(?) on the left side...I am way past my warranty....is this a common defect or something?
I bought an xps 1340 and just received it. I was streaming some music off youtube today and my left speaker was cracking when playing the song Roses by outkast.
I played the exact same video on my desktop and it played without any problems.
I called dell and they had me play a cd (don't have an outkast cd) and the speakers seemed to play fine. Once i played the CD, the dell representative just told me it is a software issue. But how could a software issue only affect 1 speaker(the left one)?
I don't remember when it started but my sound cracks and pops when I play games (NBA 2K10, WoW...) and sometimes when I'm watching youtube videos. However, it's fine when I just play a song on iTunes. Well actually, it pops a bit when I first start the song, but then the popping disappears, which leads me to think that the problem is somehow related to CPU/GPU usage.
So I've been on the web for quite a while now trying to find solutions...and here's what I've tried:
1) Using headphones (sound pops in headphones as well)
2) Turning off the wireless adapter (sound still pops with wireless off)
3) Disabling all enhancements under "playback devices" (still pops)
4) Checking IDE ATA/ATAPI controllers for Ultra DMA mode (got 4 ATA Channels, ATA Channel 0 is in Ultra DMA Mode 6, ATA Channel 1 is in Ultra DMA Mode 5, ATA Channels 4 and 5 are not in any mode)
5) Updating IDT High Definition Audio driver (updated, still pops; read somewhere that rolling back the driver would solve the problem, but at that point I've already reinstalled a newer IDT HD audio driver, which means I can't roll back to the desired date...)
6) Tried using a different HD audio driver (tried downloading a realtek HD audio driver, but I guess realtek = IDT?? same problem occurred)
6a) Eventually found some HD audio driver for some HP laptop (driver is now called High Definition Audio Device (under device manager => sound, video and game controllers))(sound still pops)
Specs: OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 32-bit (6.1, Build 7600) Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Duo CPU P8600 @ 2.40Ghz (2 CPUs), ~2.4Ghz Memory: 4096RAM Graphics: ATI Mobility Radeon HD 4670 Bought: Around July/August 2009
Bought a latitude E6400 a few weeks ago. Every now and again a loud cracking noise can be heard somewhere around the left side of the keyboard. This happens very infrrequently, about 10 times since I have had it.
Before I ring Dell has anyone come across this before?
The noise is like a crack and then a smaller click Sounds like a small peice of plastic just broke or something.
The laptop could be sitting there doing nothing for 20 mins and then the noise happens.
I'm in the process of returning my system (not due to this paint issue) but due to the screen issues/dell's inability to give me a replacement [full story: The continued adventures about a boy and his laptop....
Back to this thread's topic, I have babied this thing and have never dinged this portion of the laptop on anything but the paint still seems to chip away.. does anyone else have anything like this picture?
I'm going to be ordering the Sony SR in a couple of days probably. Today I went to Best Buy to look at it. Everything about it I liked except for the casing. It's so flimsy and seems like it's made out of cheap plastic. I recognize that this helps to keep it light, but still, just touching it made me feel like my palms will break the computer after a while, lol. Seriously, why do they make it like that? The thing bends so easily, including the screen. Making it of something a more strong would not add considerable weight!
if there is a blank you can replace the optical drive with in the SR series. Preferably a part that is sold by Sony themselves. I hardly use my DVD drive and having it power on and then off each time I bring the notebook out of standby drains battery. I also intend to reduce the weight of the SR by removing the optical drive.
With my old Thinkpad, I was able to remove the optical drive and replace it with a blank fairly easily. I think Lenovo calls it a "travel blank."
i have an hp dv4-1155se, i opened the place where is the hd, and when i opened, i saw the hd has a plastic on the hd, like antistatic or something like this, i would like to know, what is this? and what happened if i take out this plastic? i think plastic helps to have a high hd temperature,
I have a HP Pavilion dv6-6119tx Entertainment Notebook PC. There is a sparking/cracking type of Noise during Startup & sometimes during usage,which makes it too irritating to listen to songs or other things. My Audio drivers are upto date,tried installing & uninstalling them but of no luck....
I dropped my Latitude E6400 while it was in my backpack and the palmrest plastic next to the latch holder unsnapped from the base. I snapped it back in. About a month later, it was unsnapped again and I snapped it back in again. I don't remember dropping it. I wonder:
1. Has this happened to anybody? 2. Do you think I broke anything?
You can hear this effect around 60%-80%+ volume(varies by system) usually from the right speaker(more noticeable). It sounds like a speaker when its damaged from high volume or a bad amp you hear a buzzing/cracking/distortion sound on the right speaker usually(you can also verify it with the dell audio diagnostic, test my Dell technician even realized it). Ive had 3 xps's replaced(due to other issues) all of them had the same problem (additionally I had 2 speaker replacements and they had the same problem). sxps 1640 and 1645. I remember when a technician came and opened my motherboard I took a look at the side speakers. It seems that the right speakers are loose compared to the left ones. You can press on it and it goes a bit in and out.
I just wanted to start a new thread for Bill to bring this issue also to the attention of the engineers. I think I know what the problem is, I will be putting rubber pads in my laptop to enforce the speakers from vibrating. Someone brought this solution to my attention a long time ago.
Post number 10(Metroline solution): http://en.community.dell.com/forums/t/19258055.aspx
Does anyone else have this problem? Verify so Bill can bring it to the attention of the engineers. Bills going to have big meeting with big players soon so post up if you do have this issue so he can bring it to the table. I didn't want to use the throttling thread for this issue.
My temporary solution is not to go about 60% volume... since it's load already but it would be nice to blast the volume and listen to music while doing other chores in the house or hang with friends but the audio quality is terrible.
Note: I can not verify this for sxps 1647 because I do not have one.
I will give you guys an update on my results, when I dampen the system with pads and reinforce it.
I have a Latitude E6640 and wish to use the SmartCard slot. Unfortunately there is a plastic spacer in this slot that will not come out. My software sees the firmware on the laptop so I know the hardware for this is present. How is this plastic spacer removed? Removal of the HD for better leverage is no support. It appears that the top cover over the keyboard would have to be removed but that makes no sense. If that is the case how is this done?
The thing they call "edge to edge glass" which is really just plastic above an ordinary screen. The thing is, that the screen under that edge to edge plastic is a nice anti-glare screen, no kidding! You can see this if you take your laptop in sunlight and tilt it the right way.
So what's happening is you're getting the worst part of an anti-glare screen (reduced contrast ratio) plus the worst part of a glossy screen (unless you have a really pretty face).
I took the plastic thing off, cut along the black/clear border, pulled out the middle, and stuck the centerless border back on the laptop.
Result? THIS SCREEN IS FANTASTIC. Yeah ok, of course I would say that. But if you knew me, you'd know that was way out of the ordinary and really meant that THIS SCREEN IS FANTASTIC.
One thing you may not have considered is that the screen in its default position has yet another flaw, both sides of that glossy plastic thing are glossy, so some of the light coming from the screen is reflected back to the screen, and as you know light reflected onto the screen has a yellowish tint. That is my guess as to why the whites on this screen are really really white now, and the screen is much brighter. This also explains why other 300nit screens used to look so much brighter than this.
I will have more pics when I am able to charge the battery to my good camera. If anyone has any questions about removing that plastic thing I'll be happy to answer your questions, it's actually pretty easy. For those interested, here is how I did it:
1. I removed the "star" head screws, this was accomplished not with a special star head screw driver, but an ordinary flat head precision screw driver.
2. Put some paper over a hacksaw blade to avoid scratching, wedged it under the plastic near the top where the camera is, and snapped out the first of the several lock-in points on along the top edge. I proceeded to detatch the rest of the top of the screen in this way.
3. Both the left and right sides were held on mostly by adhesive, the very edge point locks in slightly, but the efforts removing these sides are focused mainly on separating the adhesive bond.
4. I pulled upward on the plastic and it came right off, there seems to be no adhesive or lock-in points on the bottom side.
5. Using the center of the screen as a test area, I tested several cutting utilities and decided on the utility knife. To my surprise, the plastic was about 1mm thick.
6. I clamped the screen down to the table, with a straight edge positioned 1mm inward of the black line, to give headroom for errors.
7. I cut along these lines, and repeated step 6 for each side, and pushed out the center to reveal the border piece that now resembled a common laptop screen enclosure border.
8. I used a medium grit sand paper to bring the cut lines to meet the black lines, and finished it off with a fine grit sand paper.
9. I applied some electrical tape to the area between the edge of the screen itself, and the edge of the laptop on the right and left sides because there was light leakage, and then popped the border back on and screwed it down.
Found the charger! Here's the high res shots. They do *some* justice to the screen quality.
I have a Vostro 1500, which I bought 10 months ago. About 3 months ago the screen became loose and wobbled about 10 degrees when computer was moved or if I was on the train and it went over bumps. I tightened the screws as advised but this did not have any real effect. Dell engineer came and replaced the back cover with new hinges, (as they though hinges may be broken/at fault but they were fine,) but some wobble was still noticable so he ordered a new base. He came today and took the screen out complete with all the screen casing out of the old base, and put it into the new base, but still wobbled, so just put it back in the old base as it wouldn't have cured the problem.
Now yesterday, after he put the new back cover on, he had to take the plastic around the front of the screen off. After he put it together I noticed that the screen is no longer flush with the plastic surround and it annoys me! Am I just being finicky/picky or should I ask them to fix it?
I just got a brand new customized Sony VGN-Z890FKB. The sales representative of the website where I bought it from, states all their models come with the Premium Carbon Fibre lid, however I find it very hard to tell the difference between the two.
Nowhere it is indicated that this one has the carbon fibre lid. On the side of the box it says B (Black) so I got confused.
The lid is black indeed, if I look close enough I see small silverish specs mixed with the black, even on the bottom side of the laptop. The palmrest/keyboard area is a darker black without silverish specs in it.
A friend of mine has a Sony SZ and there you can tell it is a black Carbon Fibre lid (black with a hint of purple in it - when you angle the laptop from one light source to the other + you somewhat see horizontal lines on the lid of the Sony SZ). Also if you look carefully on the sonystyle site, you see those same horizontal-like lines on the Carbon Fibre Black lid of the Sony Z contrary to the Black plastic lid.
How can one tell whether his Sony laptop has a carbon fibre or black plastic lid?
Conventional wisdom holds that one of FAT 32's classical limitations is a 4 Gigabyte files size limit. I've done a few searches on the net, and I find this rule repeated ad-infinitem, without contradiction.
I recently purchased a 320 GB Iomega Prestige external drive that I plan to use interchangeably with my Mac and PC systems. To do this, I re-formatted the disk to a single 320 GB partition with FAT 32 file system (The drive comes formatted NTFS).
Yeah, I know there are work-arounds that would permit me to format it NTFS, and use it read-write on my Mac, and there are probably a few solutions that would permit me to format it Mac OS Extended, and use it my PC. I prefer not to use any "workarounds".
Here's my question.... I had occasion to copy a few files to the drive from my MacBook to the drive, namely my Virtual Machine files, that I don't want to use Time Machine for. I had no problem doing so. The two files exceed 4 Gigabytes handily, with one of them being over 30 Gigabytes! Oops, this can't be done, right?
I ask, how is this possible? I thought I had a 4 Gigabyte limit with FAT 32. Does the fact that I formatted the drive with my Mac give me some sort of advantage that Microsoft's formatting using the same file system does not?
I have read that the reason the FAT 32 files sytem can't store files over 4 Gigabytes, is the insufficient lack of storage within the allocation table for the requisite number of pointers required for a file over 4 Gig in size.