It has been just a week after getting my new laptop it has stated to thermal shutdown the base becomes too hot to touch i logged the cpu temperatures it reaches 100c but gpu is cool below 60c . this shut down happens when i play games even very light games i face this problem . i had done a clean install of windows 8.1 and i updated all my drivers and bios from the lenovo site.
View 5 RepliesI am in a bt of quandry, my Dell XPS 1710 switches itself off after 5 min automatically; I know its not the dust cause I have just opened and cleaned the heatsinks yesterday; the only other thing I can think of is the thermal compund on the cpu might have dried!
A bit on the problem then for your suggestions; after about 5 min - max my laptop switches off automatically!
sometimes the system leds stay on while the monitor goes lank and systems looks like it has powered off; while at other times even the system leds and the toucpad leds goes off along with the system!
I've had an Inspiron 15R (N1550) for a year and a half now. Six months in, the fan shot its bearings and had to be replaced under warranty by a Dell technician. About four months ago, I started experiencing overheating issues again resulting in thermal shutdown when running resource-intensive applications for any length of time. After use, the case would literally become too hot to touch. I updated my BIOS, cleaned out the areas I could reach with canned air, and operate the laptop on a cooling pad at all times. Even this had, at best, minimal effect on the duration for which the computer could run without reaching excessive temperatures.
Recently, I noticed that the fan wasn't throttling when running high-load applications, either, so I installed SpeedFan and confirmed that it never seemed to come out of the idle state. SpeedFan appears to have fixed the throttling issue, however, even when clocking the fan to a minimum of 60% and a maximum of 100% once any of the components rise above 55-60deg (c) while blowing cold air at maximum speed from an external fan directly over the vent, I get at most half an hour out of games or high-demand video editing software before I experience another thermal shutdown. If I stop playing halfway through, then quit the game and examine the temperature gauges on SpeedFan, Cores 0-3 show as between 85-93 degrees, and two readings, Temp5 and Temp6 (the chip for which simply reads "DELL") shows as 90-95 degrees.
I am using 2012.0815.2143 version of catalyst control center which was default download available from the dell support center for my laptop model. The problem i am experiencing is that whenever i switch powerplay to maximize performance my GPU temp just increases to 90C, seems like fan doesn't work and system powers down due to maybe thermal shutdown. But when powerplay is set to maximize battery life the temperature remains fine and i can play games fine.In maximize battery life core runs at 300Mhz only which is not good heavy games.
View 15 Replies View RelatedI have a Thinkpad Twist. I started it up and got a thermal sensing error before the boot screen. I looked up the error on various forums, tried turning it off to see if the message would still be there. When I rebooted it, it went away. Should I still be concerned for the fan or CPU?
My laptop has been overheating before this, but it's never shut itself down, even after the error message.
My Dell inspiron n5010(4 years old) is getting auto shutdown after 3-4 minutes.. I have noticed that my cooling fan is not working continuously... It frequently starts and working for 2-3 sec then again stops .. again after sometimes it gets started.... I have already opened up my laptop and cleaned all the dust ... but the story continues... should I have to replace heat-sink?
Windows Event-Viewer Log given below
The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly.
- System
- Provider
[ Name] Microsoft-Windows-Kernel-Power [ Guid] {331C3B3A-2005-44C2-AC5E-77220C37D6B4} EventID 41 Version 2 Level 1 Task 63 Opcode 0 Keywords 0x8000000000000002 - TimeCreated
[ SystemTime] 2014-11-01T03:56:09.640017800Z EventRecordID 12892 Correlation - Execution
[Code] ....
I turn on my laptap and it start up normally. All are loaded up in the homescreen except the cursor which keeps on loading ( its like when you refresh). All keys are not working except to the CapsLock key, the touchpad and trackpoint ( color red) are working.
I remove the power source and battery to shut it down but it doesn't shut down! Now it is running for 5 minutes, and the screen still ON, continue to refresh. How to shut this down and restart.
I realize that there are several threads on W520 shutdowns, but I haven't quite found a similar problem to mine: A random, sudden shutdown occurs while the laptop is on battery. The problem does not occur when using the power adaptor. It also seems to have nothing to do with physical movement of the laptop, nor with power consumption/heat. After going blank from one second to the next, the laptop restarts. Seeing that the laptop works fine with the power adaptor, is there any reason to believe that components on the main board could be the problem? If not, I could just get another battery, even though this still seems ok.
View 9 Replies View RelatedI upgraded my brand new U410 to Windows 8, and immediately noticed that shutdown took more than 5 hours, at which point I would just kill it by holding down the power button.
View 5 Replies View RelatedTook delivery of my brand new y510p yesterday and the last 24 hours have been hell.The PC is incredibly slow, much slower than my three year old XPS 15 from dell.
The laptop won't shut down/restart.. It just goes through shutdown screen then black screen with keyboard monitor fan etc still on.I have done a system recovery back to initial state and am now running windows updates as first port of call but its been stuck on 13 out of 32 update (whilst shutting down) for the past hour and half.
My problem with Lenovo G470 is this: every 10, 12 days it shutdowns and can't use it for a time. I'm doing anything (listening to music, writting a text, etc) or sometimes I'm afk and just doing nothing and it happens anyway. And then, for a time it's impossible to start windows. I turn on the laptop and the Lenovo logo appears, but then just shuts down.
Maybe 4-5 hours later it starts to work ok again. Im not sure aboout this because when this happen i usually leave it there and come back the next day.
Also, this happens on battery or plugged in. Is the same. Another weird thing that occurs sometimes is that when I'm using it on battery and I turn it off, the laptop shutdown, but the on/off button light doesn't turns off. I need to plug it in to solve this. I don't know if could be related, but I replaced the W7 home basic with the ultimate version. While I had it with home basic this didn't happened, but it was a short time (2 days) so I couldn't determine if this is related. Anyway I have the recovery CDs if a probable solution would be that.
I've read here about solutions like flashing the bios. I didn't do it but I could try it if you think it could work. I don't know if there are new updates. The truth is I'm a total newbie on flashing the bios.I can't turn on the laptop with the on/off button. But if I press space and escape it turns on again, and fails again of course.
I bought a brand new Lenovo Z580 Ideapad 2 months ago and now I am experiencing abrupt shutdown. I work for sometime and suddenly it automatically shutsdown (it doesn't show th shutting down progress instead it turns powers off the laptop at that instant). Here are my specs:-
Model:- Z580
RAM:- 4GB
Processor:- i5 3210M
HDD:- 1TB
Graphic Card:- Intel HD 4000 and Nvidia 635M
OS:- Windows 8
Notebook x240 Dock: Thinkpad Pro Dock (40A1 M20) this is important cause the update firmware tools must be for this version (40a1 m20) if someone has a link to it.
I do have this link: [URL]
But in case it doesn't work i'd like to update Dock's firmware.
Any guide for the (40A1 m20 Pro Dock) model ...
I use my X201 for 4 years now without any trouble. The original battery getting worned out, I replaced it with a 9Cell Duracell (Sanyo) one.
Since then and only when I use the new battery, AC unplugged, my laptop randomly shuts down with no warning. No overheating issue.
The Win7 logs point to powerfailure (Kernel Power at restart shows error 61)
I have a problem with shutting down my computer. While it seems like the system is closed and the screen goes black, the laptop is still working (power button still glows white and ventilators are on). The only way to shut it down completely is by holding the power button for 5 seconds.
My specs are: Intel Core i7-3630QM, 1TB HDD (560GB free), 16GB SSD, 8GB RAM, NVIDIA Geforce 660M
In last month my laptop used to be working for 4-5 days in a row, and only today did I notice that it won't shut down. I did some research and found out that the feature called "Fast Startup" is responsible for this - disabling it with Energy Management resolves the problem, and the laptop shuts down nicely, while re-enabling it makes the problem return.
I also found out that the Fast Startup feature (while enabled) creates(/modifies?) a file called "hiberfil.sys" which stores data about my current session and then shuts down the laptop completely.
So apparently there is something wrong about this file or the process of creation/modification of it (I'm not sure how it works) when I try to shut down my laptop. Or even it might be not about that file, but some 3-rd party process which blocks the creation/modification of it?
So my question is what can I do to solve this problem withoutdisabling the Fast Startup feature (I mean disabling it costs me like additional 40 second during turning my computer on, which is not much, but the pure fact that I have to disable this means I have some problems with my laptop).
PS. I ran the "powercfg.exe /hibernate off" command, restarted the laptop, then ran the "powercfg.exe /hibernate on" command, in hope of clean-creation of hiberfil.sys file, but it did not work (maybe there is a way of manually deleting it in order to automatical re-creation of the file during the next shut-down?).
The only thing on my mind now is leaving the laptop "shut down" for a night - maybe that file is so large it needs a lot of time to be created/modified, but that wouldn't explain why shutting down my laptop in the previous 7 months has been taking only like 5-7 second, not the whole night.
X220 Tablet .... After hours of troubleshooting, I finally found the cause of my Windows 7 Pro Shutdown issue.
The Tablet would hang at Shutdown, then BSOD. I systematically removed drivers until I found the cause. The current installed version of the Thinkpad Tablet Button Driver, Version 1.04.0.0 as installed by System Update was the culprit. As soon as I uninstalled that driver, no more issues.
I recently bought an X240 and have this shutdown problems. Before it was caused by Norton anti-virus so I uninstalled it, then the laptop was working fine. Now, after some Windows update, it doesn't shutdown again. What is wrong with this laptop?
View 3 Replies View RelatedRunning Windows 8.1 for some time, but latest updates (8/13/14) cause the problem. Restore point and shutting down updates allows use, but it's a short term fix.Which update causes the paroblem?
View 7 Replies View RelatedI got to admit that I got this Laptop for quite a while now but it is still bothering me that it reboots automatically after shutdown when power cord is plugged in. Without the power cord it works as it should.....
View 8 Replies View RelatedI have come to grips with the fact that my E6400 (see specs below) has idle temps of around 42 for both CPUs and around 62 for the GPU (while docked).
While these are not dangerous, and while the slow fan speed is very quiet and therefore doesn't bother me, I refuse to accept defeat so easily.
So, I am thinking of replacing the thermal paste and possibly the thermal pad on my E6400. There is at least one person here at the Latitude/Precision sub-forum who did that, with amazing results
i have a question for everyone who has removed the heatspreader from an acer 6920g. Did the northbridge made contact with the heatspreader by a thermal pad or by a thermal paste ? mine had something that looked like a thermal pad but when i tried to remove it , it tore into small pieces ( i know a thermal pad is not like that ). i used a thermal paste when i put everything back together. Should i open it up again and use a thermal pad for the northbridge ?. In everst in the sensor menu it shows 42 degrees celsius for the motherboard sensor ( i assume that is the northbridge).
View 10 Replies View RelatedMy SZ-770 become extremely loud and can be used as waffle maker sometimes.
I've disassembled it and cleaned all the dust using compressed air, but it's too hot and too noisy.
I'm thinking about buying a cooling pad to partially solve the problem. But most of pads have fans on the bottom and I'm not sure that it will fix my problem.
Can anyone recommend a good pad for SZ series?
Having geforce go 7900 gs 256 Mb (17 inch, 1920x1200) died after 2 years of using it, but played only moderately. I noticed sometimes GPU was over 80 C. No more warranty, so I plan on getting a replacement.
7900 gs is 20 Watt current consumption. There are cards like 7900 GTX, FX2500M tht have 45 Watt. So roughly we could expect twice as much heat made if replaced to a 45 Watt card. Am I right here? Now, even 20 Watt card (7900 GS) was overheating with only single heat pipe. 7900 GTX or FX2500 would have to have for sure 2 heat pipes, but since we have twice as much heat, do we have the same situation?
What is your experience with 45 Watt video cards in Inspiron E1705 / 9400 ? Do they overheat (and break) as often as 20 Watt and single pipe cards?
And second question - reliability of refurbished cards or "working pulls" How long can they last? I know it all depends, how the previous owner was using it, etc. When buying used card, what possibly was overheated more? 20 Watt single pipe or 45 Watt dual pipe (like the question above)
I would appreciate any oppinion and experiences from you.
In the future, I plan to better take care of cooling, remove dust more often, use AS5 paste, fan control, use dual pipe. Anything else can be done? Maybe going to 20 Watt with 2 pipes - would probably cool down system the best.
Can any ENVY owners (any model is fine), comment on the cooling system, hardware temperatures, physical temperatures, etc.? And if anyone knows about the cooling system/features/vents for the ENVY 14.
Also, compare ENVY's gamingability to the m11x, MSI GE600 or MSI GX640, if possible.
I've had my Edge 15 for few years now, and it's been perfect for me, but like a week ago the cooling fan started to kick in very often and is quite loud. I tried to clean the fan, ( it was very dusty ) but it was very difficult beacuse I couldn't plug out the cooling fan wire ( It just didn't come out ) , so I did my best cleaning it like that. I also had to unscrew the processor thermal paste area to get the fan out and I noticed that the thermal paste is is not in the center but is around the main area, could that be the problem why the cooling fan is always on and so loud? P.S Realtemp shows that temperatures are around 38-50 degrees Celsius when watching videos or using the browser. Is that normal?
View 3 Replies View RelatedI cannot get the Y2P to shutdown or sleep. When I try to shut down it powers off but after about 2 seconds it turns itself back on and boots up. Same thing happens when I try to sleep.I've tried pretty much everything I could find online including the following:
-Turn off wake on lan on the network adapter
-Turn off auto restart on windows errors
-Updated bios
-Updated drivers
-Disabled all non microsoft services
-Factory reset of the OS
Went through every device in device manager and turned off "Allow this device to wake the computer"powercfg /lastwake (shows nothing).Shutting down isn't a huge deal as holding down the power button will eventually turn it off. But not being able to sleep the laptop when I close the lid is a deal breaker as the battery constantly drains.
I have multiple T430's at my company that are slow to shutdown. It takes approximately 10 minutes to shutdown. It is also consistant, as soon as you login and shut down it will take that long. These are all installed using an image. Running windows 7 64 bit. Looked in event log, but no indication of abnormal errors. Using Kaspersky, Office 2010, Mozy. Checked some registery settings on microsofts website but that didn't fix the issue either. Not sure if this is a lenovo problem, or a windows problem or a conflict with other software.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have a new T400 (2768GP6) running Windows 7 Enterprise (~3 weeks old). This morning it just turned off all of a sudden and won't turn back on. I tried pressing the power button 10 times and holding it down on the 11th time with no AC or battery connected, but it's just dead. None of the indicators are lit when connected to AC.
I might point out that I did spill some coffee on the keyboard this morning about 5 minutes before it shut off. But, it was barely a few drops (you know, the few drops that remain although the cup is technically empty) and I wiped it all off with a paper towel. Those few drops spilled at the bottom left-hand corner, right by the Fn and Ctrl keys.
I changed my TM 8204 heatsink due to faulty fan.
The problem is the thermal pad which connect CPU, GPU to heatsink is unusually thick, like 2-3 mm.
I tried to use regular thermal pad (0.13 mm) but it seems there is a gap between CPU and heatsink. It causes overheat and my laptop wouldnt even boot.
where I can get this "thick" thermal pad?
The LCD on my 700m quit working after I dropped it. But OK on external monitor. Got new screen on eBay. Part # slightly different but that's moot now.
After hooking up the two cables to new screen and putting battery back in, I pressed START button. The light would come on for a few seconds and then blink off, accompanied by a faint click. The data cable to screen got very hot in just a few attempts to start up.
Now nothing works (no more blinks and clicks) with either LCD, on either battery or mains. At this point I would be happy just with external monitor. Had I tripped an thermal overload device, and is there a reset button?