I recently aquired damage to my laptop screen, an HP dv6000 with a 14.1 inch (wide) screen. I am looking to purchase a new one, however the 'specs' or details of the screen (ex. Video connector info, backlight type) are way out of my realm of understanding.
Before I purchase a new screen, I would like to make sure it is completely compatible with my laptop. How am I able to determine this?
Also, what is the esthetic/quality difference between Glossy and Matte type screens?
i just found this forum and it seems like you guys could help me answer this question. i have a dv2000 laptop i bought about 2 years ago and the screen has started to mess up. essentially it has two problems.
1. there is always a vertical line about a pixel thick that stays a yellow color. no matter what is on the screen, the line is always yellow. if i bend the display panel a bit it disappears but comes back as soon as i let go.
2. when i open and close the laptop to adjust the screen angle, the screen starts flickering with these white lines. i have to keep messing around with the screen (moving it back and forth) for it to come back to normal. im not sure if a cable is loose or maybe broken.
im assuming that i need to replace the entire display panel but im not sure if i can get away with just buying the lcd screen and replacing it. i can probably get rid of the yellow line on the screen but i think the flickering is caused by something else. could it be a loose cable that i just need to fix?
The LCD screen on my 6 month old Sony FW laptop is toast. It looks like a window that was hit by a speeding baseball (only worse). The laptop itself still works, but it is unusable due to the broken screen.
1. To get it fixed, should I go through Sony or a third party? (anyone know the best phone number to call for help?)
2. Should I have the work done for me or should I order a new LCD and attempt to fix it myself?
3. I have an XBRITE-HiColor screen. How can I be sure that the screen I am getting/ordering is indeed a HiColor LCD and not an Eco?
Our 1525 is 6 months old and my daughter opened the laptop at college to find the the LCD screeen had an internal crack just at the top middle directly underneath the webcam. The laptop was sitting on her desk and the previous evening was fine.
Dell is claiming that it was customer damaged and will not cover under the normal warranty. Unfortunatley I did not purchase the extended warranty.
I have read a number of similar internal crack issues with 1525's online and would like to know if it's possible to escalate this to someone at Dell who could approve the repair.
I have an Acer 5710. The screen has cracked where the webcam should be. There is no support at all behind the top of the screen. It flexes in to empty space due to there being no rear support. Can anybody confirm if there should be a top support fitted if no webcam is there.
I purchased a Dell around May 2008, and upon receiving the laptop I noticed that there was an area on the left of the screen that seemed to have an internal protrusion;
whenever I moved the screen that area would have extensive rippling. When viewed from different angles the screen seemed to have a white mark in that area. Since I had had a lot of computer drama with HP back then,
I didn't want to ship back my new Dell right as I got it, and I left it alone. Unfortunately I didn't take any images of the screen.
A couple of weeks ago, I opened my laptop like any other day, only to find that the screen had cracked internally, right where I had suspected the weakness .....
Unfortunately, I did not purchase the accidental damage coverage. The laptop has not been dropped or abused and is under the so-called 12 month warranty. I have read online similar cases of new 1525 LCDís developing cracks (see below a copied post from Amazon).
I am furious that Dell is failing to admit either this is a design problem with the frame or a faulty LCD panel or perhaps there was a manufacturing process blunder during assembly.
Are there any forum members who have successfully convinced someone at Dell to honor the warranty in a case like this? Is there a best approach to elevating my dispute? My daughter really wanted a Mac and now of course I am a knucklehead as highlighted by Dell's excellent customer care and design engineering.
I have a friend who owns an Inspirion 1520 and it is obvious the frame is far heavier and structurally more rigid than the cheap plastic case on the 1525. At the moment, Iím the screwed customer and Dell has a college freshman on a campus of 35,000 kids who will be bad mouthing Dell for years to come. Dell also has a few other kids who own 1525ís in the same dorm who are experiencing quality issues and the brand is taking a beating. Thanks in advance for your comments .....
It is a Refurb, but I have had very good luck with their refurbs. I am typing on a XPS M1530 Refurb that is flawless.
Anyways, I got the Mini 9 yesterday from FedEx but got home so late that I decided to wait till today to open up the box. Box is in fine shape. Laptop is not. It looks like it is cracked behind the screen. Lots of dead/broken pixels in both horizontal and vertical lines.
Worst part about it? (And I KNOW it was stupid move on my part, but I ordered a Runcore 32GB and 2GB of ram that I will be getting tomorrow, should have waited until I knew the laptop was good).
So what should I expect in the exhange process? I am going to press to do a cross-ship (I know they do this for XPS's).
I bought an Extenza 4420 a few weeks ago, and the screen cracked after only a week. I did not drop it or step on it or abuse it. Acer told me a replacement screen would cost $450 plus shipping costs. This doesn't seem right. The customer service at the store where I bought it, and also when I called Acer's customer service line offered no help at all.
My question is if there is anything I can do about it other than replacing the screen at my cost?
I was trying to clean up my laptop inside since it was making too much noise and got hot very quickly. Reading around it could be due to bad air flow.
So when I took out my harddrive, i cracked a hard drive connecter. Now I am getting no disk found when I power up the laptop. Not sure why hp made this of plactic and so fragile. Even Acer has solid metal connecter. 10 year old Toshiba laptop has better disign. My drive connecter is from SUYIN and number is 78352.
Question is has anybody ran into this problem and sucessful in chagning only the connector. Looks like I might have to change the whole motherboard. It is only 1 year and would like to avoid sending it to HP if I can.
I've been trying to follow various vague guides on how to replace Acer screens. The closest guide on this forum is for the 6930 but the layout is quite different once you open them up. I have so far removed the speaker cover and detached the screen from the main laptop. I have also un-popped the screen bezel but am now stuck. The proplem is that as far as I can see, I need to get the whole bezel off in order to accesss the LCD fittings but I can't because it's catching on the hinges (and the small circuit board for the AC in socket) which protude from the screen. How do you remove the bezel? It looks like it should slide up away from the hinges but mine is getting caught everytime. What have I missed?
to figure the mess that are DVD laptop model numbers? I assume from the past that the bay in my NX9420 is a 9.5mm multi-bay II, yes?
I was going to grab a UJ-852 drive as it is listed as compatible with the NW9440...and near as I recall the only difference between the two models was the graphics card options and the included warranties.
My NX9420 has been running pretty much 24/7 since I bought in in around in early 2007.
Been through three HDD upgrades and now at 500GB, 4GB RAM...still plugging along wonderfully. Until the DVD drive started popping open just because...I finally had enough, took it out, opened it up and the danged front ribbon cable was so weakened it just fell apart in the middle at the bend...soooo, no real hope of repair so I felt it best to just upgrade the drive to something newer...hence does the UJ-852 and will it fit...I truly have looked, emailed vendors and cannot seem to figure out of the drives are only for the external Multi-bay II or I can remove any attached adapter and use the old mounting bracket then slide it into the bay and be done...maybe a new drive but nothing more...
My sister has a HP laptop with a bad DVD burner, it won't burn and it makes a grinding sound whenever a disk is in the drive. I don't know the model, anyway it's still under warranty and I'm wonder if she will have to send the laptop back in order for them to replace it. Sending it back is a big no no, and I can replace the drive myself.
I have a DV9000, 17inch. A number (that I think is significant) 439112-001 is on the bottom of the laptop.
I need to buy a refurbished/spare part motherboard to replace the one that died in my other computer, but I can't figure out which one to buy. At first I thought it was as simple as buying a used DV9000 laptop or motherboard, but apparently not only does the screen size (13 vs 19 inch) matter, but also a number.
I see numbers on ebay with stuff like "447983-001"--that's why I thought that one number on the bottom of mine was important. But I can't find that number on any motherboard on ebay, and it only turns up 300 pages on google, which leads me to believe it isn't the right number.
I have an opportunity to buy an HP DV5-1157CA in Canada for a great price:
It's a 15.4" which makes it bigger obviously than the m1330.
Pro's: ----- Centrino 2/Montevino platform 4 GB vs. 3GB that I have 9600M GT vs. 8400M GS possible avoidance of future GPU problems great clearance price of $997 Canadian
Con's: ------ bigger form factor plastic chassis vs. magnesium alloy and aluminum lower battery life no fingerprint reader still an Nvidia GPU (can we trust Nvidia anymore) 2 Ghz P7350 vs. 2.4 Ghz T8300
If your base enclosure (the bottom chassis cover) gets accidentally damaged, what happens to the service tag when you replace that part yourself?
You see, that part carries the service tag on it for warranty purposes. I know the mobo is also tagged (tattoo'd) with the service tag info, but then what happens if the mobo dies, and you have replaced the bottom cover?
My guess is that you could peel off the service tag from the old part and somehow glue it onto the new one, which wouldn't be very nice.
Also what would HP do if they were carrying out the repair?
I checked out the service manual, to read up on disassembly. Thinking about opening my notebook up and removing the heat pads and replacing them with copper shims to reduce heat. that is, unless someone can find a way to downclock the GPU for cooling purposes... But I'd like to get it cooler so the fan won't have to run all the time.
I got an hp dv4 for christmas '08 and i really love the portability of the computer, 14 inches is perfect, but its gaming capabilities are shot bc of the integrated graphics. My parents bought the laptop to surprise me, but they don't really know much about computers and thought it would be good for games. I am wondering is there any possible upgrade available that would be cheaper than getting a whole new laptop?
I just bought a 2530p, with 1.8-inch 120GB hardisk. The partition is assigned as below.
- 101GB for C: - 9GB for D: (HP_Recovery ) - 1GB for F: (HP_Tools)
I would like to replace existing 120GB HD with larger one, and would like to ask some question.
1. what is the largest size of 1.8-inch hardisk for 2530p? I refer to "Service and maintenance information" manual, the hardisk size seems only up to 160GB, could I installed 260GB or even larger hardisk?
2. Is it neceessary to keep the partition of HP_Tools or HP_recovery? (if I delete the partition 'HP_Tools' or 'HP_recvoery', can the OS be booted up?)
I've got an HDX 16t due to ship next week (if those chinese factory workers aren't slacking off! ) and I plan on replacing the 5400 RPM HD with a 7200 RPM HD.
What's the best way to accomplish this hard drive switch? I figured I'd just install Vista and the required drivers on the new hard drive but I've read that some people clone the existing hard drive onto the new hard drive.
While that sounds easier will it result in a reliable install?