Lenovo E535 11e E/Edge :: Connecting To TV With HDMI?
Oct 2, 2013
I must be missing something -- I'm trying to connect my E535's HDMI output to the HDMI input on my Panasonic Viera LCD TV. I've attached both ends of the cable to the corresponding ports and I get nothing. I select HDMI 1 or 2 on the TV, and still nothing.
I've also tried toggling the F6 display selector key, although I believe this is active only when using the VGA port, correct?
The Lenovo manual is pretty sketchy on the matter of DVI, so what I have to do in Control Panel or elsewhere to get the computer's display on the TV with HDMI?
I can't change my ram anymore. this is quite a silly problem.-, I am currently running on 6gb : 1 samsung 4gb @1600mhz(original stick) 1kingston 2gb@ 1333 mhz this works fine exept it gets really hot (80c) I have tried removing the slots one by one. but never managed to get into the BIOS once changed. also tried switching the sticks and just 2x2gb , even with just the original one it wont get into bios, sometimes i get beebs from the motherboard and sometimes I just get a black screen.
but it only boots into BIOS when I put them back where they were in the first place.
also tried removing the bios battery but that just resets the time -,-
I have what I think is a common problem with Edges: My E535, which I've had just over a week, will start up quietly. Then after about 3 minutes the fan will switch to high speed, even under light load (e.g.. only Firefox running, and limited scrolling or other activity). After a few minutes at steady high speed, it will begin cycling up and down, up and down, up and down..... This is getting to be moderately annoying. It does this whether the machine is plugged in or on battery. It also happens when I'm doing other things...OpenOffice spreadsheets or word documents, or even just letting the system sit idle.
I've attempted to change settings with Power Manager but for some reason, PM ends up crashing when I attempt to select a lower fan speed setting and a normal (level 10) brightness setting. Can the two problems be related? I'm presuming from similar posts for E530 and other Edges that this is BIOS related. Here is my info:
MS Windows 7 Home Premium, Version 6.1.7601 SP 1, Build 7601 Edge E535 Model 3260CTO AMD A4-4300 M, Radeon HD BIOS LENOVO HHET75WW (2.08), 10/24/12 SM BIOS 2.7
i just bought a Thinkpad e535.Every time I turn off the laptop (not hibernating, not sleeping) and unplug the power cable from the Ac Outlet the battery loses around 20% of charge every 24 hours,
What I've already done to troubleshoot: -Disabled USB always on in BIOS -Disabled Wake On Lan from Windows AND BIOS -Running command powercfg /devicequery wake_armed to see if any device is programmed to power on the laptop
BIOS version is the latest one (2.08) Power Manager software is 6.32
I recently bought a new E535 laptop working like a charm up to now. Bios access was possible by pressing Enter directly after switching machine one, than came some sort of POST analysis which could be skipped by pressing any key and than came some sort of table where I could access Bios by pressing some key (cannot remember which it was exactly). Alternatively I could enter Bios when in boot menu by pressing tab which switched to another tab where Bios could be entered (also some sort of diagnosis programs could be started). As mentioned in the subject it is impossible for me to do this now, after I did the following:
- exchanged built in HDD with an new SSD (Bios access yet possible) - changed in Bios Setup boot mode from both (legacy + UEFI) to Uefi only (this might be the problematic point but I'm not sure) - Installed Windows 7 in Uefi mode on ssd
No when I press enter on startup it brings me to Windows boot manager menu (you know where you can say start Windows normally or in safe mode and so). Boot menu also changed with a new "start windows" entry (well, this seems to be correct), but when switching to the other tab it is empty now, no entry for Bios setup or diagnosis tests anymore.
This is really bad. I have googled around and tried the following up to now without success:
- Pressing F1 instead of enter - Shutdown laptop, and start with F1 pressed down - starting without HDD - starting unmodified HDD which was originally installed in laptop (which cannot be booted anymore, probably because it was installed in legacy mode)
I have also thought about flashing the bios, but the newest version available on lenovo support seems to be 1.04, but pre installed on my laptop is 1.10, so my version is a lot newer. Should I try to flash it nevertheless ?
My E535 will play non-copy protected DVDs that I got from a training program years ago just fine. But although it will play some movies from my local library with no problem, there are certain releases that give me an error message on Windows Media Player that I need to update my drivers and DVD-RW settings or something to that effect, yet all drivers appear up to date and everything seems to be set correctly in Control Panel for the DVD-RW drive.
And occasionally I get a message that "Your computer is running low on memory. Close other programs to continue", or something similar. Huh?? Nothing else is running.
The weird part is that I can play these disks just fine in my 8 year old Dell desktop that's running XP and a much older version of WMP.
FYI, my machine is Windows 7 Home Premium with 4GB RAM, 320GB HD and the AMD A4300 and AMD graphics.
I fresh installed Windows 7 and installed all the drivers from Lenovo's website. Still I cannot adjust the brightness. It stays on MAX and drains the battery in 1h30min. All other F hotkeys work but not F7 & F8 for brightness control. Is this a BIOS/Drivers issue?
ThinkPad Edge E535 Model: 3260-CTO AMD A10 4600m apu Windows 7 64 Home Premium
New just turned on a few hours ago. Brightness control was working before fresh install. Did fresh install to get rid of bloatware.
I have a laptop HP Pavilion g7. Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit Service Pack 1Intel (R) Core (TM) i5-2450M CPU @ 2.50GHzGraphics Unit 1: AMD Radeon HD 7400M Series Graphics Unit 2:Intel (R) HD Graphics 3000All the driver has been updated weekenden-
My problem is that I do not get the picture up when I connect it to my Panasonic TV, both during display settings and sound can see my TV, but there No picture, have tried all display settings that are possible?but it works without problems on 32 "and 40" TV but not at 46 smart TV and my 50 "TV
I connected my HP 2000-2d51SV laptop to my LG tv , but I get a response that there is no signal.I tried the laptop's control panel , but i do not see the tv as extra monitor.On the TV the HDMI port can be pressed ( is not blury like the other ports with no connected cable ).I also tried the other HDMI ports of the TV..I have windows 7 installed.
Irecently bought a new AOC monitor 6 months ago and it worked flawlessly up to two weeks ago when it suddenly stopped working with this laptop. monitor still works great through HDMI with my brothers mac and with a seperate Blu ray player also via HDMI. so its not the monitor or cable that is causing the problem.
the driver for the monitor is installed correctly and all the extra graphics drivers such as nvidia have been uninstalled and still the screen shows 'no signal'
I suspect the issue is with the HDMI driver which i have not been able to find a driver for (i recently reformatted my laptop and had to re-install all drivers even for USB ports and mouse ) however reformatting the laptop was done in an attempt to solve this issue.
I own an Edge 15, 64 bit processor. It came with 2gb RAM. I recently purchased and installed two 4 gb cards for a total of 8gb RAM. I updated my BIOS. Under "Computer>Properties" it is showing only 4 gb Install RAM. Why is it not reading or the system not using the additional 4 gb of RAM on the second card?
I have a brand new TV with USB, RS232, HDMI connections and of course with a screen in16:9 aspect ratio. I want to use my existing RS232 cable to connect my T430 to the TV and display videos/movies that I want to view with others. HOWEVER, the video output always gets a black bar top and bottom from the T430 when the TV is connected. As a result, the image is stretched side-to-side both on the TV and on the T430 simultaneously showing the video. It is ugly. If I watch a movie in the very wide movie format 2.35:1, the bars are of course even larger and the movie is simply unwatchable it's so thin, top-to-bottom.
This is true regardless of the video source on the T430, either a movie via VLC or MediaPlayer off the hard drive, or streaming.
Two odd things: it does not happen if I play a movie on the TV directly from a USB key - it has a USB port and that works just fine. Also, if I simply unplug the RS232 from the TV then everything gets restored and the image on the T430 is perfect without any bars top and bottom.
In summary, a 16:9 video source connected to a 16:9 TV via RS232 is given black bars top and bottom, and there is no control on the TV that can correct this (TV has two settings for RS232 display, 4:3 and 16:9. 4:3 actually displays the 16:9 ratio correctly, but with a large black frame around it. And 16:9, the "auto" setting, gives the problem above).
So I have two questions:
1. Is there a setting on the T430 that I can adjust to resolve this issue so that the black bars are suppressed for 16:9 video replay?
2. If I switch to using the more expensive T430 minidisplay output (via an HDMI adapter) and connect that way, is it likely to fix this issue? I don't want to go to the expense of the adapter and HDMI cable if it will give essentially the same result.
This only applies to videos. That is, when I close down the video, the 16:9 desktop that shows on the TV is identical to that on the T430 and aspect ratio is not squished on either display.
So it's something to do with how the machine sends out the video streams via RS232 that's screwed up somehow.
Im having issues trying to connect my computer to my smart tv. I have a new samsung smart tv and a thinkpad w530. I also have a 15ft mini displayport to HDMI cable (NOT converter just cable) from monoprice I just got in the mail today. Set windows 8 up to duplicate the screen. Neither the computer or the monitor can recognize that they are connected to something else.
EDIT: want to add specifically what I have tried. I tried changing graphics mode to discrete in BIOS. Have set up screen to duplicate, not extend or anything. Fixed resolution of separate screens back to normal (when I set to multiple monitors it shoots me down to the lowest one). I also checked (via the control panel) for new NVIDIA drivers. It said i already had the latest. Im having a hard time finding the specific driver I need for the displayport for thr w530.
I think what I have tried to far will make sure it works once I get it to recognize the TV. But it hasn't done anything to make me recognize the tv. I want this to work very badly!
my Lenovo W530 Windows 7 64 bit USB's have been randomly disconnecting and connecting, the things i have plugged into them are my mouse and an external hard drive, and they just repeatedly turn off then on again? i've done some research where people have gone to their device manager then to their USB Root Hub Properties and was told to uncheck the option as show below for all the root hubs but it still does it.
I have a new X230 which came with Intel WiDi installed. I am trying to connect it to a Philips Smart TV which the folks at Philips tell me should work with WiDi. The TV is Miracast enabled.
When I run the Intel WiDi software, the Philips TV appears as an available device. When I click to connect, the software asks for a PIN number and at the same time a PIN number appears on the TV screen. I enter this in the box provided by the software. There is a pause of 15 - 45 seconds, and then there is a message on the TV : "Step 2/2. Connected. Starting playback." This is quickly replaced by a message on the TV "Failed to playback". The WiDi software remains at the "Connecting..." screen.
I feel I am pretty close to getting this to work, but not sure what to do to actually succeed.
I have already updated the WiDi software and drivers to the latest available on the Lenovo site:
the way the F keys have been switched on my Edge 14", today I came across some time to fiddle around with it. I googled what I needed to do...and came across this question on yahoo, which is exact what I need. I bought Lenovo Thinkpad Edge several months ago, and I really like it so far. But I use MS Excel a lot and I always use shortcut keys which involve F1~F12. On my thinkpad, I always have to hit "Fn" and "F1~F12" keys simultaneously, and it is a little annoying since I've been used to using F1~F12 keys without hitting "Fn". So I went to BIOS keyboard setting, and enabled the Function key lock. It became a little bit better, because now I don't have to hit "Fn" and F1~F12 simultaneously, but I could press "Fn" AND THEN, F1~F12. But what I really want is the "Fn" key always on without pressing it. On the BIOS screen, it says hitting "fn" key twice keeps "Fn" key always on, but whenever I hit it twice and hit F1~F12, it doesn't function like F1~F12 key, but it just controlls the sound volume or display light. Is there any way to keep "Fn" key always on without pressing it everytime I want to use F1~F12 keys?"
In short, in the BIOS page, once "enabled", you are able to double tap the Fn key and have it stay on without you pressing it each time; however, it doesn't appear to work that way and turns off everytime you use a F key.
The thing they call "edge to edge glass" which is really just plastic above an ordinary screen. The thing is, that the screen under that edge to edge plastic is a nice anti-glare screen, no kidding! You can see this if you take your laptop in sunlight and tilt it the right way.
So what's happening is you're getting the worst part of an anti-glare screen (reduced contrast ratio) plus the worst part of a glossy screen (unless you have a really pretty face).
I took the plastic thing off, cut along the black/clear border, pulled out the middle, and stuck the centerless border back on the laptop.
Result? THIS SCREEN IS FANTASTIC. Yeah ok, of course I would say that. But if you knew me, you'd know that was way out of the ordinary and really meant that THIS SCREEN IS FANTASTIC.
One thing you may not have considered is that the screen in its default position has yet another flaw, both sides of that glossy plastic thing are glossy, so some of the light coming from the screen is reflected back to the screen, and as you know light reflected onto the screen has a yellowish tint. That is my guess as to why the whites on this screen are really really white now, and the screen is much brighter. This also explains why other 300nit screens used to look so much brighter than this.
I will have more pics when I am able to charge the battery to my good camera. If anyone has any questions about removing that plastic thing I'll be happy to answer your questions, it's actually pretty easy. For those interested, here is how I did it:
1. I removed the "star" head screws, this was accomplished not with a special star head screw driver, but an ordinary flat head precision screw driver.
2. Put some paper over a hacksaw blade to avoid scratching, wedged it under the plastic near the top where the camera is, and snapped out the first of the several lock-in points on along the top edge. I proceeded to detatch the rest of the top of the screen in this way.
3. Both the left and right sides were held on mostly by adhesive, the very edge point locks in slightly, but the efforts removing these sides are focused mainly on separating the adhesive bond.
4. I pulled upward on the plastic and it came right off, there seems to be no adhesive or lock-in points on the bottom side.
5. Using the center of the screen as a test area, I tested several cutting utilities and decided on the utility knife. To my surprise, the plastic was about 1mm thick.
6. I clamped the screen down to the table, with a straight edge positioned 1mm inward of the black line, to give headroom for errors.
7. I cut along these lines, and repeated step 6 for each side, and pushed out the center to reveal the border piece that now resembled a common laptop screen enclosure border.
8. I used a medium grit sand paper to bring the cut lines to meet the black lines, and finished it off with a fine grit sand paper.
9. I applied some electrical tape to the area between the edge of the screen itself, and the edge of the laptop on the right and left sides because there was light leakage, and then popped the border back on and screwed it down.
Found the charger! Here's the high res shots. They do *some* justice to the screen quality.
Heres a video I made to demonstrate the ammount of flex on the edge to edge lid. It does have flex and bend, but its not as bad as the one j3n82 reported. I recorded with an iPhone so the video quality is crap. Also forgot I had left it in portrait mode when I recorded it (I didn't have a tripod so I used a cup lol). But I hope it gives some of you a basic idea of the quality. I thought openning the blinds to allow the vertical lines will show the bend/flex a lot more. I was applying quite a bit of pressure, although it doesn't seem like I was in the video. I felt as if any harder I might have damage something, or maybe pop the edge to edge screen out. I used an 8lb dumbell, I think thats the limit.
If you noticed the cloth I used to cover the keyboard when I closed the screen, I did this this to avoid getting the smudges on the screen when I pushed the lid down onto the keyboard.
At the end of the video I tried showing the Edge to Edge display, notice how theres another layer of screen over the bezel. Thats the difference between the edge to edge.
I just bought an Edge 130 and wanted to set it up today. But I just can't enter the BIOS! I keep pressing F1 during the Lenovo splash screen. I've pressed it repeatedly, held it down, I even tried it with the Fn button pressed. Nothing worked.
I've have been working with and professionally supporting Lenovo (and before IBM) notebooks for over 10 years and not once did I have such a problem. This is only the second E-series notebook I have ever had. I bought myself an E525 last summer and had no such problems and at work we have T-, X- and W-series.
ThinkPad Edge, Win 7 Sp1. For the last month I have had a problem with the control key always down. Programs react as if the control key were pressed. MS Word 7 gives an error message that the control key is down and asks if I want to go to Safe Mode. I have had the keyboard replaced with no change. The computer has been thoroughly checked, all drivers, patches, software upgrades have been made by my Tech, and the Bios has been flashed.
Last week, I found a post on Google for Win XP where the poster had the same problems. The fix was to ensure that the Sticky Keys were turned off in Ease of Access on the Control Panel. I went to Ease of Access and turned off all of the selections, and the fix seemed to work. However, yesterday the problem reoccurred. I don't know if it is a problem with the motherboard, hardware, or with Windows. It appears that this problem affects more than one version of Windows.
I have a Lenovo Thinkpad Edge E530. Occasionally I will have the following icon pop up on my screen and refuse to go away: A reverse google image search told me this is the logo for the "thinklight", which as far as I know is not actually equipped on this model. As a side note, I have seen this happen on a friend's E530 as well.